Good question.
I just sort of leveled out the paint as it had texture on it.
Not to the bare metal.
I just sort of leveled out the paint as it had texture on it.
Not to the bare metal.
"Paint your car for 50 bucks" I am going to try it.
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Learned something important.
After my last 2 coats, the glossiness had sort of gone away and the surface was looking flat.
Too much thinner.
I modified the mix to test it and added more thinner to paint ratio to see if it would level better. It leveled great but the shine was gone.
50/50 thinner / paint. any more, and you lose the shine.
I plan to have this panel completed on Sunday.
So far, I am thinking I can do this to my car w/ decent results.
If anyone has tried this, I would love a tip on how to do the vertical surfaces. I think that will be an issue.
After my last 2 coats, the glossiness had sort of gone away and the surface was looking flat.
Too much thinner.
I modified the mix to test it and added more thinner to paint ratio to see if it would level better. It leveled great but the shine was gone.
50/50 thinner / paint. any more, and you lose the shine.
I plan to have this panel completed on Sunday.
So far, I am thinking I can do this to my car w/ decent results.
If anyone has tried this, I would love a tip on how to do the vertical surfaces. I think that will be an issue.
Finished the panel
I Finished The Panel
Well, I finished the panel, and I am convinced you can do this and it will look good. I posted pictures on the site w/ the finished product compared to the Mustang
Link:
http://bryanswebpage.com/50DollarPaint/
NOTE: One thing I determined is that you will need an electric polisher / buffer as doing it by hand is not practical. If you don’t have one, the $50 paint job just went up a hundred or so bucks.
Am I going to do the mustang? I don't know
After finishing this on Sunday, I started looking at the car and got to thinking about how much work it would be to do the whole car. Sure a small portion would be simple but sanding an entire car by hand 5 times and putting 8 coats of paint on it in between, polishing the whole thing, and trying to deal w/ crevices, vertical surfaces etc… It just might be too much work. I haven’t decided yet.
I Finished The Panel
Well, I finished the panel, and I am convinced you can do this and it will look good. I posted pictures on the site w/ the finished product compared to the Mustang
Link:
http://bryanswebpage.com/50DollarPaint/
NOTE: One thing I determined is that you will need an electric polisher / buffer as doing it by hand is not practical. If you don’t have one, the $50 paint job just went up a hundred or so bucks.
Am I going to do the mustang? I don't know
After finishing this on Sunday, I started looking at the car and got to thinking about how much work it would be to do the whole car. Sure a small portion would be simple but sanding an entire car by hand 5 times and putting 8 coats of paint on it in between, polishing the whole thing, and trying to deal w/ crevices, vertical surfaces etc… It just might be too much work. I haven’t decided yet.
He is suing rollers. Spraying may or may not work because it is very thin (50/50 w/mineral spirits), but it defeats the purpose of being super cheap (no sprayer, filters, compressor,etc...).
Very nice results but I wish you would experiment with a vertical surface!!!! Thx ofr the derailed write up.
Very nice results but I wish you would experiment with a vertical surface!!!! Thx ofr the derailed write up.
I've sprayed Rustoleum before. It's a little less thinning than 50% using acetone and works great. It actually lasted longer out in the sun than that stupid $120/gal epoxy primer that everyone kept recommending. After at least 2 years in the sun and rain the epoxy primer has washed off and faded, while the Rustoleum spots are like the day I sprayed it.
Color match
It looks like (from the last picture posted at http://bryanswebpage.com/50DollarPaint/Day1.htm) the Rustoleum Gloss Sunrise Red is a close color match with the paint on your Stang. Is your car Poppy red? And can you comment on the color match as pictures are sometimes deceiving. I'm wondering if this might be an option for touching up the inside trunk lid of my 65 after recently removing the seal and old adhesive. The adhesive remover took off a bit of the paint and need to touch it up. I do not want to pay $12 bucks plus shipping to get a can of Poppy Red for this touch up job.
It looks like (from the last picture posted at http://bryanswebpage.com/50DollarPaint/Day1.htm) the Rustoleum Gloss Sunrise Red is a close color match with the paint on your Stang. Is your car Poppy red? And can you comment on the color match as pictures are sometimes deceiving. I'm wondering if this might be an option for touching up the inside trunk lid of my 65 after recently removing the seal and old adhesive. The adhesive remover took off a bit of the paint and need to touch it up. I do not want to pay $12 bucks plus shipping to get a can of Poppy Red for this touch up job.
My .02 is that if you can spray Rustoleum, you can spray base coat/clear coat. The paint will look nicer and there are some inexpensive kits out there that do a decent job. Rustoleum has its place and I use it a lot, but this looks like the hard way to paint a car.
I've painted several of my cars in my own garage with paint kits I've bought on evil-bay. Typical cost for a cheap urethane bc/cc kit is about $200. Ok, it's not top of the line auto paint and you won't win any Ridler's, but the result is not bad, there are more colors available, and unlike Rustoleum, you can get a variety of metallics.
And you can actually get the car completely painted in one day, not six or seven. 2k primer is ready to wet sand in under 2 hours. Base coat flashes in 15-20 minutes, so you can lay down several coat in an hour. Speed clear is dry to the touch in half an hour and it'll be ready to buff in a few hours. I usually let it sit at least overnight before wet sanding, but you could go faster. Basically, it ends up being a weekend job, not an all week or more job.
You'd don't need a fancy spray gun or a huge compressor. I've been using some pretty cheap stuff and getting good results. Even solid colors look a lot deeper with a BC/CC paint.
You have to spend an awful lot of time sanding and buffing Rustoleum. I think base/clear coat is actually less work in the end. The bottom line is, no matter what paint you use, it will only look as good as the prep work beneath it. If you are going to do good prep, why not spend an extra few bucks for real paint?
Now, for those of you without a compressor, this Rustoleum thing is a pretty good technique, it seems. Just time consuming.
I've painted several of my cars in my own garage with paint kits I've bought on evil-bay. Typical cost for a cheap urethane bc/cc kit is about $200. Ok, it's not top of the line auto paint and you won't win any Ridler's, but the result is not bad, there are more colors available, and unlike Rustoleum, you can get a variety of metallics.
And you can actually get the car completely painted in one day, not six or seven. 2k primer is ready to wet sand in under 2 hours. Base coat flashes in 15-20 minutes, so you can lay down several coat in an hour. Speed clear is dry to the touch in half an hour and it'll be ready to buff in a few hours. I usually let it sit at least overnight before wet sanding, but you could go faster. Basically, it ends up being a weekend job, not an all week or more job.
You'd don't need a fancy spray gun or a huge compressor. I've been using some pretty cheap stuff and getting good results. Even solid colors look a lot deeper with a BC/CC paint.
You have to spend an awful lot of time sanding and buffing Rustoleum. I think base/clear coat is actually less work in the end. The bottom line is, no matter what paint you use, it will only look as good as the prep work beneath it. If you are going to do good prep, why not spend an extra few bucks for real paint?
Now, for those of you without a compressor, this Rustoleum thing is a pretty good technique, it seems. Just time consuming.
There may be others but I've used these vendors with good results:
TCP Global
Smart Shoppers
Auto Paint Pro
TCP has some nice metallics. The Smart Shopper site has a complete kit with primer, base, clear, and supplies for under $200. Good deal, but keep in mind, this is not pro quality, top of the line paint. It's more like body shop, collision work paint. But heck, if you will settle for Rustoleum, this is pretty nice stuff.
The one thing is, the paint colors may be a slightly different shade than what you see on your monitor. Ask for a chip if you need something specific.
TCP Global
Smart Shoppers
Auto Paint Pro
TCP has some nice metallics. The Smart Shopper site has a complete kit with primer, base, clear, and supplies for under $200. Good deal, but keep in mind, this is not pro quality, top of the line paint. It's more like body shop, collision work paint. But heck, if you will settle for Rustoleum, this is pretty nice stuff.
The one thing is, the paint colors may be a slightly different shade than what you see on your monitor. Ask for a chip if you need something specific.
I am thinking about doing the rustoleum thing for a couple reasons. One, I have a kid due in about 6 weeks which means I have very little money, and I will be home a lot and I have a ton of time.
Also it is kept in the garage all but 10-12 days out of the year so I don;t think it will be fading much.
I just havent decided if I want to to the whole thing at once or 1 section at a time.
Also it is kept in the garage all but 10-12 days out of the year so I don;t think it will be fading much.
I just havent decided if I want to to the whole thing at once or 1 section at a time.
Yup, it is really bubbly.
Just blow on it, and they will all pop and flatten out pretty quickly.
Take some pics of the process if you can, I would like to know how it is working out on the car.
Roughed up the existing paint with some 180grit, cut out some rust spots, primered those areas to bring it up to the paint level, and sanded smooth. I also filled in the holes on the hood where the F O R D lettering would go, and did away with the chrome lip on it.
The paint is sticking very nicely, pictures will be later on tonight. Its coming along nicely, the first coat is a disaster, but as you learn to work with it each coat becomes easier and easier.
I painted the hood with 4 coats, rear 1/4's with a single coat, and the doors with 2 coats so I can show the differences. Sanding with a 400 takes only a few minutes after you apply a coat, smoothing the paint is quick and easy. Going to work my way up to 2000 grit wetsanding and then buffing on the 8th or so coat. Pictures to follow soon
The paint is sticking very nicely, pictures will be later on tonight. Its coming along nicely, the first coat is a disaster, but as you learn to work with it each coat becomes easier and easier.
I painted the hood with 4 coats, rear 1/4's with a single coat, and the doors with 2 coats so I can show the differences. Sanding with a 400 takes only a few minutes after you apply a coat, smoothing the paint is quick and easy. Going to work my way up to 2000 grit wetsanding and then buffing on the 8th or so coat. Pictures to follow soon
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