Guys and Gals, I need some help...
In this thread a week or so ago I talked about how (I thought) my driver's side power window switch for the pass side window had died, so I bought a new (OEM) switch from American Muscle, and a 'One Touch' module from Pony Performance. (I hate just fixing something...like Tim the Toolman Taylor, I wanna make it better, faster, more powerful, or, in this case, simply more convenient.)
I started with just swapping the switch, taking things one step at a time. No workie. I swapped switches and discovered my old switch works just fine (in the driver's side plug). I checked the wiring and nothing appears to be lose or losing contact. The switch's prongs fit tight, as they should. They are certainly making good contact. The female terminals were not dirty or corroded, nonetheless I cleaned up the contacts (in the wiring harness) with a hobby tapered sanding stick. Still no workie.
I put my multimeter on it and confirmed it's getting about 12.65 V, just like the working switch. The window works fine from the pass side switch, but from the driver's side, you've gotta reach over like we did back in the day (of course back then you also had to crank it round and round..!)
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Chris
In this thread a week or so ago I talked about how (I thought) my driver's side power window switch for the pass side window had died, so I bought a new (OEM) switch from American Muscle, and a 'One Touch' module from Pony Performance. (I hate just fixing something...like Tim the Toolman Taylor, I wanna make it better, faster, more powerful, or, in this case, simply more convenient.)
I started with just swapping the switch, taking things one step at a time. No workie. I swapped switches and discovered my old switch works just fine (in the driver's side plug). I checked the wiring and nothing appears to be lose or losing contact. The switch's prongs fit tight, as they should. They are certainly making good contact. The female terminals were not dirty or corroded, nonetheless I cleaned up the contacts (in the wiring harness) with a hobby tapered sanding stick. Still no workie.
I put my multimeter on it and confirmed it's getting about 12.65 V, just like the working switch. The window works fine from the pass side switch, but from the driver's side, you've gotta reach over like we did back in the day (of course back then you also had to crank it round and round..!)
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Chris