Yeah I want to get to that point, right now if they just went away it'd all be worth it, and honestly once/if we ever get to that point i'll say it was all worth it. But at this point, while the problems sitll persist, i'm saying it's not worth it because it's getting extremely annoying...we seem to be exhausing possibility after possibility as to what could be causing this.
As for the "right and left" issue, that's another thing i'm confident we got correct. We put each new cam next to the corresponding old cam while it was still in the car just to be sure we got them on the right side. "RIGHT" matched the cam on the passenger side, "LEFT" matched the cam from the drivers side...lobe-wise that is. We got all the rockers put back on if they'd fallen off, we torqued it down to spec, we cranked it over probably 4 times by hand just to make sure there was no PTV contact, and figured it was good.
Today when i'm done with class, depending on whether or not my dads already ran the compression test on it and what the results of that are, i'm going to start it back up again and just back it out and drive it down the street and see if maybe it's having a hard time learning for some reason...That should also warm it up faster so I can get the thermostat opened and see if coolant is still leaking in. I'm going to be REALLY tweaked if it passes the compression tests and still is getting coolant in the cylinders because we've seriously sealed the intake manifold gasket EVERY POSSIBLE way it seems. We're considering putting the old manifold back on just to see if that solves the problem or not. Maybe I got a defective PI Manifold? Right now nothing is going to surprise me. If a horse crawled out of my intake ports it wouldn't phase me.
As for the "right and left" issue, that's another thing i'm confident we got correct. We put each new cam next to the corresponding old cam while it was still in the car just to be sure we got them on the right side. "RIGHT" matched the cam on the passenger side, "LEFT" matched the cam from the drivers side...lobe-wise that is. We got all the rockers put back on if they'd fallen off, we torqued it down to spec, we cranked it over probably 4 times by hand just to make sure there was no PTV contact, and figured it was good.
Today when i'm done with class, depending on whether or not my dads already ran the compression test on it and what the results of that are, i'm going to start it back up again and just back it out and drive it down the street and see if maybe it's having a hard time learning for some reason...That should also warm it up faster so I can get the thermostat opened and see if coolant is still leaking in. I'm going to be REALLY tweaked if it passes the compression tests and still is getting coolant in the cylinders because we've seriously sealed the intake manifold gasket EVERY POSSIBLE way it seems. We're considering putting the old manifold back on just to see if that solves the problem or not. Maybe I got a defective PI Manifold? Right now nothing is going to surprise me. If a horse crawled out of my intake ports it wouldn't phase me.
kick 'em when hes down. The inertial switch is in the trunk. It only would have been triggered if you a.) got rear ended or b.) purposely tripped it. I used this switch to cut power to my fuel pump so I could relieve fuel pressure. The injectors are fully seated in the rails and manifold? We did injectors on my buddy's IROC-Z before, and one of the O-rings rolled a little when we put them in.. so he was having fuel pressure issues. Just something to consider.
ITS RUNNING, IT WORKS 
.... I was looking at GDAWG's install guide being as my pictures all were taken with the strut bar on, so you can't see what wires went where. I looked really close and was like "wait a minute..." went out, switched them around, turned it on, and it just purred like a kitten. No rough idle, no nothing....just pure sweet goodness. 
you're welcome man! Now go do some burnouts, then come back and drink some beers 
