PI Intake on 98GT?

The RTV method has been pretty good from what I have read. If there have been failures no one has posted them up. I did the plates like droptop has.

As far as gains...I never had a dyno before the swap but at a dyno day there was a 97 GT there with similar mods as my 96 except the intake, throttle body and plenum...3.73's compared to my 4.10's. He put down 197 and I hit 213. So look for about 15 HP over what you have now.

My track times stayed about the same but my best time before was in cool temps while the times after the swap was in 90 degree heat.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


update

ok i started this last week after shopping around and finally getting all the parts. so the removal went ok. no big deal. i figured out what to do with the fuel line disconnects tools seeing how they really dont come with directions and everyone around here seemed to know exactly what to do with them(except me). the alternator was a little challenge because i had frpp pullies on and the water pulley was larger so the bolt would'nt back out all the way without removal of the pulley. which was a trick because that pulley hasnt been off the car in 6 yrs so the bolts needed a little love.


*hint if you try to remove the pulley bolts with the belt off it is kinda hard if not impossible. so put the belt back on then loosen the bolts. if you need to put a little more pressure on the belt to hold the pulley still just push down on the belt to make it squeeze the water pulley tighter. (this works WAY better than trying to hold it with your hands)

ok so finally everything was off the car except the old coolant tube. this is where life gets fun. so far the directions from the write ups and post have been perfect. so now the fun begins. the coolant tube has a 13mm bolt that is almost impossible to reach so finally after scraping up my arm really well and dropping the wrench and ratchet a few million times. the bolt finally came out. but the tube didnt budge. guess what? there is ANOTHER bolt holding the coolant tube bracket on!! and finally after reaching blind and dropping the tools again and again..guess what? they changed bolt sizes. its a 10mm for all you guys. now the write up didnt mention there was 2 bolts on the bracket and they certainly didnt mention the different sizes. so now im telling ya.

ok to the tube came off. now more fun. i have no idea what you guys did to get that tube on there but that tube is exactly the length of the flange to long. only solution i can see is to cut the tube about 2" inches just at the start of the first bend. the new tube of course has only 1 bolt to hold it on place so that is a plus.

i dont know what the differences are with my swap from you other guys. unless you had the same problems and just didnt ever tell anyone around here. i do have a romeo block if that makes a difference. maybe it does maybe it doesnt. also not that it matters but the tap size that is posted at the bottom of the write up is WAY to small i ended up with a 5/8"-18 tap and it was to small so i took it up to a shop and they chased it with a little larger tap but the sensor still wouldnt thread clean. so i told them just to wrench it down with plenty of teflon. i dont expect it to leak.

someone write back if my coolant tube cut doesnt sound like a good solution. otherwise im hoping the rest of the install goes smoothly. only part im worried about now is the alternator and how it goes back on.
 
Did you replace with a new coolent nipple? The one that comes from the back of the water pump resevoir? Waht canadastang said about the sensor...the hole is the NPT size tap. Good luck finding one. I drove all over until I stopped at my nieghbors shop and he happened to have one.


Don't feel bad about the fuel line disconnects...took me a litle bit too ti figure them out.
 
lets see if i can help...

http://community.webshots.com/photo/72370370/1072374171030067364CzmyLb

Here a pic of the coolent nipple, where the new tube should connect to.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=495410

this is a better explaination of how the new tube should connect if it don't reach. I didn't have to do this, as the new coolent tube went in fine with a new nipple. Im guessing there is 2 types of nipples and you may have to get a peice of hose. The nipple just taps out after you remove the waterpump.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19879

here is a good reference on part #'s and such. All these have some chit chat on how they did it. Unfortunetly the pics are no longer there.

As they say, a pic is worth 1,000 words.. got any to see what you mean about the new coolent tube not reaching?