[pics] My new floorpan

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by lauras70mach1, Jun 29, 2005.


  1. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    I'm restoring a 1970 Mach 1, thought I'd share photos of the progress. Hop e you like the pics:
    new rear torque box patch installed:
    [​IMG]
    Rear floor pan extension welded in:
    [​IMG]
    New floor support welded in:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    New torque box installed:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    New toe board:
    [​IMG]
    Full floor pan:
    [​IMG]

    The car:
    [​IMG]

    Next comes the driver's side :banana: . Should be easier as we bought the car after someone already cut up the passenger side. Also, the driver's side is a little less rusty.

    I figure I have between 30-40 hours into the passenger side.
     
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  2. cardude

    cardude Founding Member

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    what were the main tools that you needed besides a welder that helped you do the job??
     
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  3. dennis112

    dennis112 Active Member

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    Great job.

    I've always found the 2nd pan to be easier because you've already established the tools and ideas needed.

    Normally takes about 1/2-2/3rds the time. . . . . :)
     
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  4. Jester67

    Jester67 New Member

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    Great job!!! :hail2:


    Yah what he said!
     
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  5. DarkBuddha

    DarkBuddha Founding Member

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    I remember that... too much damn work to do in the Florida heat, so after doing the front half of the driver's side, we finally sub'd out the rest to a resto shop. Looks like you're doing solid work though... keep it up and keep us posted.

    :nice:
     
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  6. DarkBuddha

    DarkBuddha Founding Member

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    BTW, what's the color? Grabber Orange? Some sort of yellow? Bright Gold Metalic? Any of those colors might have the same sort of look as in the pics... just curious really... :shrug:
     
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  7. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    Well, we're getting ready to move, so I'm holding off on buying an air compressor, but one of those is nice - at least a 60 gallon tank so it's not running all the time while you're grinding/drilling. i work off and on at a "real" body shop and things go much faster when I do this type of stuff there. :D Also, you can keep your panels cool while you're welding with an air blower - that's not much of a concern when working on the floor, though. Just be sure to jump around once in a while with your welding and you'll be OK.

    Here's what I used:
    -Welder (Hobart handler 180, .030 steel wire, don't use flux core, get the gas)
    -angle grinder (cutting wheels for removal of old panels and trimming new ones, grinding discs for weld prep and dressing)
    -Cordless drill (cutting old spot welds, drilling holes in new panels for plug welds)
    -Spot weld cutter (Eastwood has 'em but I used one from Wurth)
    -drill bits
    -hammers of various sizes/types
    -vice grips (hold new panels in place before welding)
    -various pliers
    -tape measure
    -Sharpie pen for marking stuff
    -metal shears
    -screwdrivers/chisels

    Hmmm, I think that's about it. I got a pretty bare-bones operation here at the moment, so I know it can be done with simple tools. It's mostly just patience and a little know how. I don't have any shaping dollys but I should have as they are critical in getting stuff to look "finished."
     
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  8. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    Original bright gold metallic (that's what you see on the floor) but someone painted it Grabber Orange. I think we might go with black when the day comes to paint it.
     
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  9. faultlessfocus

    faultlessfocus New Member

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    Wow, I need to get some tools!! Job looks pretty good man, I just wish I knew exactly WHAT I was looking at. What is a torque box?
     
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  10. 67coupe351w

    67coupe351w New Member

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    I agree, dont use flux core...I did and it is such a pain. I plan on converting my welder over to gas soon...its all set up for it, it jsut needs a regulator and tank.

    Also the the hammer played a big role in my floor pan replacement...those aftermarket pans..at least the ones i used, just didnt fit like the should.
     
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  11. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    :stupid:

    Fit, measure, mark, trim, repeat.

    They stamp those things out and leave it to you to make them fit. Don't be afraid to do some pounding.
     
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  12. 67coupe351w

    67coupe351w New Member

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    ....OK how am I stupid when I agreed with your own post.

    I said the same thing, the hammer plays a big role because they don't fit like the originals even after you trim them. Oh I know, I must have been advocating just setting the raw pan in the car and pounding on it until it fit. I wish there was a big middle finger Icon :rolleyes:

    Have a nice day.
     
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  13. chepsk8

    chepsk8 Founding Member

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    Dang!

    Major surgury!

    I remember doing the outer rails in my old 69 'vert! Car was ripped apart, but came back together nice, was even stronger than the now-Ex's Mach 1!!!
     
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  14. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    Sorry, I wasn't calling you stupid - there is no "I agree" smiley, so I chose the next best thing. No offense intended. :shrug:
     
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  15. mikec35

    mikec35 Member

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    When you are replacing just a single floor pan, do you cut out the rusted pan and lay the new one down and weld from the top? Thx...
     
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  16. 69 Capecod

    69 Capecod New Member

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    Oh MY GOD thank god I got a rust free car. Thats way more work then I would want to do.
     
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  17. 67coupe351w

    67coupe351w New Member

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    No hard feelings, It looks good :cheers:
     
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  18. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    The best way is to butt weld it - get it so it lays in there and the edges of the old pan and new pan pretty much line up perfect and weld them wherever, top or bottom. I welded mine on top (inside the car) but I'm actually going to run another series of welds under the car and grind the whole works down so there is as little filler as possible.
     
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