Pics/Vid of the 66

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
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Southlake, TX
Forgot to throw out some thanks to the people who helped, so thanks to:

James B for narrowing the rear
Travis at Gearheads for assembling the rear end
Travis/Chris for hooking it up with a custom tune (to delete PATS)
PooterWS6 for some of the work done back when we got the car
My dad...he's a great help when you need someone to bleed the brakes :D

Im glad to say Im finally dont suck at project cars...this one finally runs :p

Specs:
4.6 2v motor (all from 03 GT)
t3650
8.8

Mustang II front suspension
Wilwood disc brakes
Autometer gauges
03GT seats (front only)
Afco racing radiator
Flex Fan
Mach 1 Wheels

Still need to put in some subframe connectors, hide the wiring, bolt up all the front end. Lots of little stuff. I should be able to drive it this week...just waiting on a throttle cable to get in. The car is pretty low. Im going to have to have an exhaust shop raise up the exhaust. I think the mufflers are about 3" off the ground.
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Nice work!

Questions about the gauge bezel. I was thinking of getting one.

Where and how much $

How do you like the construction, quality, fit?


I think I got it on ebay from one of the mustang suppliers. I believe it was $35 or so...I bought it 3 years ago.

The construction is ok at best. It is cheap ABS plastic that probably should be painted. The fit is pretty good but you have to keep in mind that the old gauges was a set of 5 with 1 big gauge in the middle...so the dash is cut for that. It doesnt cover up the dip in the middle 100%. For the price it's good. It is WAY better than forking over $800 for a JME. The gauges fit great in the bezel.
 
Nice ride:nice::nice:..........Is that a hydroboost setup from an '03 GT? Any fitment issues? What about the radiator......what size is it and is that the stock radiator support?

I have a '66 as well but I still can't decide if I want to go pushrod or modular. I want to go modular, but pushrod will be soooo much easier. But, your ride is motivating me to go modular:nice:
 
Nice ride:nice::nice:..........Is that a hydroboost setup from an '03 GT? Any fitment issues? What about the radiator......what size is it and is that the stock radiator support?

I have a '66 as well but I still can't decide if I want to go pushrod or modular. I want to go modular, but pushrod will be soooo much easier. But, your ride is motivating me to go modular:nice:



Buy this car and save yourself the time and money :D

It really was a lot of work and I hate to part with it, but it will be up for sale in a couple weeks. WAY to many projects laying around the house (69 mach 1, 69 chevy c10, 69 coupe (my first car), 68 fastback)
 
Nice ride:nice::nice:..........Is that a hydroboost setup from an '03 GT? Any fitment issues? What about the radiator......what size is it and is that the stock radiator support?

I have a '66 as well but I still can't decide if I want to go pushrod or modular. I want to go modular, but pushrod will be soooo much easier. But, your ride is motivating me to go modular:nice:

To answer the questions... That is not hydroboost. It is a combo setup. MustangSteve brake pedal assembly, power booster, 99 v6 master cylinder and the hydroboost distribution block. Hydroboost would have been way to tight of a fit to do it. The unit itself is larger and would have been closer to the drivers valve cover. It would have been hell trying to make the lines. Ford uses metric bubble flare, so unless you have a bubble flare tool, you need bubble flare to SAE flare adapters (which you can see on the forward side of the distribution block). I dont think it would be advisable to run hydroboost simply because of the lines. Power steering was IMPOSSIBLE (literally) with the 4.6. I went to many hydraulic shops looking for someone to make custom lines and they all said it wasnt going to happen. The rack and pinion is way to close to the out put of the pump. I actually have a power steering rack for a MII laying around (brand new) because it is not going to work.

Drivers header is VERY close to the frame, as well as the passenger. The MII suspension crossmember had to be notched for the oil pan.

The radiator is a 26x19 (I believe...been a few years) from AFCO racing. It is a 2 core with 1" cores vs a 4 core with .5" cores. The radiator support is a stock 66. If I had to do it again, I would have figure the fan mount out first (using the GT fan, and notched the frame before I welded in a new support)

The modular is very rewarding because it is different and they really are a reliable motor. I have seen many with well over 100k on them and doing great. Heck, I read an article a while back saying it was one of the top 10 reliable motors :eek:

Did you modify your own wire harness for the 4.6L 2v?

And your MII - did you use a kit? If so which one and how did it go?

I modified the harness... It only took 2 years to finally get enough knowledge to figure it out. Lots of staring blankly at a wiring diagram and guessing. Everyone asks if Id ever do the swap again and I say NO because it was a PITA. Truly though, I probably would since I finally know wtf Im doing :D It took 2 years because after 3 months of trying and trying I took some time off...it was a cycle that happened again and again.

The MII was a Heidts kit. It was welded in by the previous owner. The heidts kit is nice since it is complete but there are much cheaper ways to piece it together. Id buy a rod and tilt crossmember and outsource the rest off ebay.
 
Well... drove the car down the street and damn exhaust scrapes just driving down the street. Not sure how Im going to fix it for now. I might have to take off the X pipe and drive it up to an exhaust shop and get them to bend something up close to the floors... I need another 3-4" of clearance under the car