Please go through my AODE-to-T5 checklist

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Howdy folks,

My AODE crapped itself so it's time to swap. I think I have most of the parts I need but wanted someone to double check me. I also VERY much welcome tips/tricks/things you ran into along the way.

I have:

A 94-95 T5, fork and bell.

Bell dowels and bell-to-trans bolts.

Block plate

RMS, Pilot bearing, clutch disk, PP and TOB.

PP bolts and dowels for the PP.

Flywheel

Pedal assembly (please provide info on the hook-ups needed there. Especially CC hookups).




I have a 7 tooth speedo drive gear and black 20 tooth gear coming (3.55's).
I have a quadrant, FWA and new cable.

I havent pulled an AODE so any tips, tricks or procedure would be great.



I dont have a 5 speed trans harness and cant find one. Can I work with my AODE harness? If I leave the shifter cable in Park, that should be ok I think. Do I leave the MLPS connected and pretend it's in park, or should/can I bypass it?

I also dont have engine-to-bellhousing bolts. I think I read that you can't reuse the AODE bell-to-engine bolts but wanted to check. Please provide a bolt size if you know it.

I also dont have a 5 speed interior shifter console. What's the difference in the manual vs auto version? Can I make my AODE console work?


I read that I need to clearance the trans tunnel for the T5. What and where do I need to do anything?


That's what comes to mind right now. Any additional stuff, along with tips or horror stories are welcome. :) This is my DD so I'm going to try and fly once I get going.
 
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you need to get the t4mo computer. i found the manual harness at Under Construction you can also check out Prestige Mustang Parts - Your #1 source for used antique and late model Mustang parts.

the bellhousing bolts are the same however the flywheel bolts are different. u will need specific flywheel bolts.

the clearencing of the tunnel, take a pair of tinsnips and take about 1.5 inches off the front of the opening for the shifter to come through.

the swap is pretty straight forward. while i drained the fluid is when i did everything inside the car. i let the fluid drain over night. i disconnected the shift linkage before i drained the fluid and was able to take everything out of the inside. one other thing the shift interlock cable make sure it is all the way out, you will see what im talking about when you take the shifter out. make sure the shifter is in park when you disconnect it and you will be fine then just simply tuck it under the dash.

as far as the pedals, the plugs only fit the other end of the plugs.

when i pulled the aode i just drained all the fluid out including the convertor then took the lines loose, put a gatorade bottle with a rag attached and blew out the lines with compressed air.

i just got the upper boot to make the console work. i glued it with some weatherstriping glue to make it stay. its basicaly the same thing. also get the lower boot to put over the shifter to keep interior noise down.

everything else is pretty self explainitory

when you adjust the cable, you want about an 1/8 or so inch of slack at the fwa.

i think thats about it let me know if you need any other questions answered. i did the swap and never once had to go to the parts store. the rest is just pull the auto out put the 5spd in.

make sure you torque the pressure plate bolts to about 23ft lbs. i messed up the first clutch by not using a torque wrench. warped the pressure plate
 
I was going to mention the T4MO computer as well. Is the harness different or could he use the existing? If he has a Tweecer, could he just run the CBAZA profile and be ok?

Hissin, aren't you somewhere around or in Tucson? If so and you need some extra muscle, feel free to send me a PM.
 
Sorry guys, I forgot to mention that Wes is already taking care of the tuning my EEC (again). He will probably do a trans load type switch and if I butter him up, he might be nice enough to redo my timing tables too (they were weird to accomodate the trans). :)

I've got new flywheel bolts so I should be good (Thanks to 5spd GT for listing part numbers in his clutch thread. That saved some legwork).

Gotcha on the shifter. I cut on the ashtray-side of the opening?

And thanks for the shifter console info. If that's the only difference, I won't sweat it (and will rig up a boot attachment like you did).

The interlock cable (the actual shifter cable) was like I figured.

Did you just remove and chuck the MLPS? I figure that atleast there needs to be a jumper wire since the starter interlock circuit runs through the switch. No?

John, you got it mang; I am indeed in Tucson. With any luck I'll be ok, but on the off chance I need a few mins of muscle, I'll let ya know. Thank you for the offer. :nice:
 
on the trans tunnel,i used the lower shifter boot as a template.i removed the rubber boot from the metal frame,line up the frame with the rear most mounting holes of the shifter opening on the trans tunnel,trace around the inner area of the metal frame and cut there.

you'll be cutting forward of the shifter opening,closest to the center stack.(thats where i had to cut)

this worked well with the stock shifter,but when i installed the Tri-Ax,i had to do a little more trimming.
 
Your gonna need a 5 speed wiring harness or modify yours. A v6 one should work. The 5 speed uses the vss and rev light wires. Starter cutout is done via the switch on the linkage below their are some wires you need to modify if using the auto harness

You need to cut the tunnel FWD about 1 inch I used the bell and trans with no clutch as a guide before installing

I also used a chip from a 5 speed with the auto computer

Their is a jumper by the fues box you remove to activate the starter cutout via the clutch petal


Removing the aode tips
Get the car high like 6 ton stands
remove the 4 TQ bolts and starter
take off the crossmember and let it drop down and use a long extension with a swivel
Get a jack under it and try and balance it as it comes down
 
Hey JT

havent pulled an AODE so any tips, tricks or procedure would be great.

I pulled mine 4 times in 2 years...switching stalls and the replacement built AODE....the one thing I can tell you that has worked for me is once the brace is removed I lower the trans a few inches...which makes it easier to reach the top two bolts with extentions.....then raise it back up and taket the bottoms out.......that is about all the advice I can give.......something tells me you have pulled a tranny or two in your day...:D

WIll
 
cut on the tunnel on the front of the hole. i just went ahead and got the t4mo computer and correct harness when i did mine. i have no idea about using the method on the computer that you are going on. im sure you could probably use the harness from the auto but it would look tacky in my opinion. i would just save yourself the potential hassel and get the right one the first time.
 
cut on the tunnel on the front of the hole. i just went ahead and got the t4mo computer and correct harness when i did mine. i have no idea about using the method on the computer that you are going on. im sure you could probably use the harness from the auto but it would look tacky in my opinion. i would just save yourself the potential hassel and get the right one the first time.

I hear ya. I'd go that route if I could find a harness. The AODE officially went out last night. I was in third and it sounded like my DS was dragging on the ground and the car wouldn't accelerate. All other gears were slipping except OD worked great. I drove home at light throttle in second gear. :bang:

I'll have to rig the harness up for now and see if I can get a 5 speed harness later.

Thanks again for the tunnel cutting advice. I just started removing stuff to get the trans out.
 
it shouldnt be that hard to find the harness in a junkyard somewhere. im sure any 94-98 harness would work for you. anyhow the swap is pretty straight forward. it went very smooth for me. if i can be of any assistance to you let me know more than willing to help you out. a friend of mine has a auto to manual swap he wants me to do in a 65 mustang now. im gonna try and talk the owner into doing a t-5 and hydraulic clutch in the swap instead of a 3spd with the mechanical clutch. anyways good luck to ya
 
For anyone thats interested theres an article here that says specifically you dont need the T5 harness. This swap is on a 94/95 so Im sure youll find it useful. I know I did and I havent even done the swap yet. Ford Mustang: Mustang Tech: Transmission and Drivetrain: AODE to T5 Swap
See the sidebar about the wiring harness. All in all a very good article. Bookmark it. Maybe even sticky the link????
 
hey, how would i modify my aode harness to work with the t5 eec? i was able to buy the t5 eec but lost the bid for the harness :nonono: so would any 94-98 stick harness work for the 94-95 t5? Thanks for any help
 
hey, how would i modify my aode harness to work with the t5 eec?

Consult with your wiring schematics and use a digital multimeter to test circuits before modifying wiring harnesses.

You would deal with the MLPS harness connector. Find the side with the 4 wires on it (you ignore the side with only two wires). The two middle wires should be VPWR and the wire to the back up lights. Run one wire from the T5 back-up switch to one of these terminals, and another wire from the BU switch to the other terminal. I got a work-around for the BU switch connector from here. They're nice people to deal with.

Back to the MLPS connector: The starter interlock wiring might need to be jumped as well. If so, the white/pink wire and the Red/lt blue could be jumped together. I would try to start the car without doing this, as this procedure might bypass the clutch safety switch, which would mean the car can be started while in gear.

Anyhow, those are all the changes one should need to make, and it could be as little as just making the BU circuit functional.
 
thanks, just one more ? I'm heading out to the junk yard this Sunday to see if I get lucky and find a 94-95 t5 harness, if I don't find a 94-95 will a 96-98 harness work?
 
Hope all those wires are working out good for you JT :)

Start the car in gear :eek:

Then again ... I happen to know :D

You've most likely owned several cars that did that ;)
and
Back in those days ...........

It was assumed ........

Even a moron knew ... to start the car ... you push in the clutch :spot:

We thought for ourselves back in those days

Safety ... We don't need no stinkin Safety :rlaugh:

Grady
 
Hope all those wires are working out good for you JT :)

Start the car in gear :eek:

Then again ... I happen to know :D

You've most likely owned several cars that did that ;)
and
Back in those days ...........

It was assumed ........

Even a moron knew ... to start the car ... you push in the clutch :spot:

We thought for ourselves back in those days

Safety ... We don't need no stinkin Safety :rlaugh:

Grady

Mr Grady,
Good to see you sir!

It was but a few years back that I finally owned a car new enough to even have a CSS. Like you said, back in the day, we knew not to start 'em in gear. :lol:

In my haste to get the swap done, I went ahead and jumped the two starter interlock wires [at the MLPS] together, and now the car starts in gear. I'm thinking that my having done that circumvented the CSS, and if I divorced those wires again, the CSS might keep in-gear starts from occuring. When I am under the car next, I might divorce those wires (and guys, that's why my posts have been ambiguous - I haven't tested my theory yet. If my theory is right, the AODE harness only needs to have the two back-up wires jumped, which is total cake).



Shady, one possible difference in the 96+ harnesses (or V6 '94-95 harnesses) might be the pigtails for the secondary O2's. :shrug: I havent seen schematics for the later harnesses to know any more..........