Engine "please Help" New Motor Build

HOGNATION

Active User
Jan 28, 2016
17
1
3
Hello, I'm wanting to build a new motor for my 1991 Ford Mustang GT (CONV). I want to make about 500 horsepower. The one thing I know I want is a turbo charger on it. This will all be done in stages, but I like some advice on what type of block do you think I should buy?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If I had a chance to do it all again....I'd buy a Dart block and stroke it. If you could get a turbo kit for a stock 351 block it'll hold at least 700hp...just something to think about.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
You can make 500 on a standard 302 but whether it holds is debating by some. The Dart and Boss blocks are feasible options, but as mentioned a 351W block is (usually) cheaper.

What is your plan and budget for the car. Auto/Manual, street/strip/autoX etc.
 
What stykthyn said above. You need to upgrade everything to make 500hp. If you want 500hp just build a stock block 351-stroker build. With the right parts you can exceed 550-600hp and not need a power adder(turbo,blower,or nitrous). The block is good to 7-800hp,way cheaper than a dart,and will not run as hot under the hood.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
here we go again.............

what is your goal
what is your budget
is this your DD or a 2nd car
What do you know about these cars
where did you come up with 500 hp
why a turbo
what is the rest of the car's setup
 
300hp is about all these machines are capable of on a hobby budget. Once you delve into the pursuit of higher hp these builds get started and sold due to lack of motivation and funds. 500hp is absolutely attainable but that fun cruiser aspect of it goes away. You have at that point a dedicated race car that will not be at home on the street and is often out-performed on the track by modern vehicles with similar hp numbers and better handling. Any of the companies offering a top end kit will get you 300+hp , car will perform equallly well as a cruiser or racer, and with the power/ weight ratio still be fun to drive.
 
here we go again.............

what is your goal
what is your budget
is this your DD or a 2nd car
What do you know about these cars
where did you come up with 500 hp
why a turbo
what is the rest of the car's setup

Well it's not racing and still love to drive car to work. Budget, well I wasn't thinking 15-20K as mentioned above. I have three other cars to drive so it won't be my DD, but would drive it 2-3 times a week. I'm not sure how I came up with that other than thinking it wouldn't be that expensive lol, guess that's the novice in me. Again not sure why a turbo, other than just liking. It's basically stock right now with just a few bolt-on itmes: Shorty headers, K&N air filter, H-Pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 rear end, MSD 6AL and a Kenny Brown Stage 3 suspension Kit. I'm leaning now just continue with bolt on items (i.e. Top End kit) perhaps. Can you give me any advice on if I need to do anything to the current stock motor if I continue with bolt on items?
 
Last edited:
Well it's not racing and still love to drive car to work. Budget, well I wasn't thinking 15-20K as mentioned above. I have three other cars to drive so it won't be my DD, but would drive it 2-3 times a week. I'm not sure how I came up with that other than thinking it wouldn't be that expensive lol, guess that's the novice in me. Again not sure why a turbo, other than just liking. It's basically stock right now with just a few bolt-on itmes: Shorty headers, K&N air filter, H-Pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 rear end, MSD 6AL and a Kenny Brown Stage 3 suspension Kit. I'm leaning now just continue with bolt on items (i.e. Top End kit) perhaps. Can you give me any advice on if I need to do anything to the current stock motor if I continue with bolt on items?
What kind of condition is the present motor? Is it high mileage? Does it still have good oil pressure,cylinders seal properly,etc? If it's in good condition you really don't have to dig into the shortblock. You can buy a good topend kit(heads,cam,intake,throttle body,proper MAF and fuel system upgrades,timing chain,few gaskets,bolts,etc) and make 350-400 flywheel horsepower. This can be done for around 3-5k in parts(cheaper if using used). Lot of people use the trick flow package and it is a descent kit.

You also could look into a Vortech supercharger with the needed accessories(mostly fuel upgrades and a tune). You can do this with the factory motor and make 300-400hp or add it to the topend parts and make around your "500" number. Blower package is around the same price as a topend kit with the needed accessories.

I do suggest to upgrade chassis,brakes,transmission before adding power. You'll enjoy the car more and not worry about breaking things. The biggest weak link in these cars are the factory transmissions. They are fairly brittle and don't take the abuse of extra power and spirited driving well.
 
Well it's not racing and still love to drive car to work. Budget, well I wasn't thinking 15-20K as mentioned above. I have three other cars to drive so it won't be my DD, but would drive it 2-3 times a week. I'm not sure how I came up with that other than thinking it wouldn't be that expensive lol, guess that's the novice in me. Again not sure why a turbo, other than just liking. It's basically stock right now with just a few bolt-on itmes: Shorty headers, K&N air filter, H-Pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 rear end, MSD 6AL and a Kenny Brown Stage 3 suspension Kit. I'm leaning now just continue with bolt on items (i.e. Top End kit) perhaps. Can you give me any advice on if I need to do anything to the current stock motor if I continue with bolt on items?

First thing I would do is upgrade the stock brakes- at a minimum buy the Max Motorsports kit for around $250 that has the SS caliper sleeves, SS lines, and Hawk Pads.

My opinion is do NOT get a turbo, unless you have a really good set of jackstands. If you want a decent, powerful, fun to drive car that will also be drivable, go with the TFS top end kit and get around 300-320 rwhp or around 350-375 crank HP. That runs around $2500.. Add in a new balancer, gaskets, plugs, wires, throttle body, headers,fluids, larger injectors and MAF and a tune, and that's another $1000. Now you will need to get a better radiator, I would recommend an electric fan and upgraded 3G alternator, - another $500-600. Then your clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel needs to be upgraded-add another $500. Your exhuast if stock needs to go- a goog cat back is $300. If you want a H pipe another $150. So what are we now at $5000? Oh and a better shifter $150.

OR, you can keep the motor pretty much as is, get a Vortech V3 entry level kit for about $2500 and get about 75 more hp. Go to the HO kit for around $3700 and get around 125 Hp- but you will need larger injectors, a larger MAF, a tune. cooling, etc. back to $5000

That is why I asked what your budget ,goals, etc are... been there done that for 30 years on these cars. So have a lot of guys here. We can save you a lot of heartburn by doing it the first time the right way.

Figure out what your budget is and how much you want to be driving vs. wrenching on the car. Then go from there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
First thing I would do is upgrade the stock brakes- at a minimum buy the Max Motorsports kit for around $250 that has the SS caliper sleeves, SS lines, and Hawk Pads.

My opinion is do NOT get a turbo, unless you have a really good set of jackstands. If you want a decent, powerful, fun to drive car that will also be drivable, go with the TFS top end kit and get around 300-320 rwhp or around 350-375 crank HP. That runs around $2500.. Add in a new balancer, gaskets, plugs, wires, throttle body, headers,fluids, larger injectors and MAF and a tune, and that's another $1000. Now you will need to get a better radiator, I would recommend an electric fan and upgraded 3G alternator, - another $500-600. Then your clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel needs to be upgraded-add another $500. Your exhuast if stock needs to go- a goog cat back is $300. If you want a H pipe another $150. So what are we now at $5000? Oh and a better shifter $150.

OR, you can keep the motor pretty much as is, get a Vortech V3 entry level kit for about $2500 and get about 75 more hp. Go to the HO kit for around $3700 and get around 125 Hp- but you will need larger injectors, a larger MAF, a tune. cooling, etc. back to $5000

That is why I asked what your budget ,goals, etc are... been there done that for 30 years on these cars. So have a lot of guys here. We can save you a lot of heartburn by doing it the first time the right way.

Figure out what your budget is and how much you want to be driving vs. wrenching on the car. Then go from there.

My head is spinning lol....Lot to think of. Thank you for all the input. After reading all the inputs I'm thinking of just doing a top end kit and I did see the TFS as it will work with my EFI engine with out having to do any type of tune because of the cam, at least what I've read. I currently have a Kenny Brown Stage 3 suspension kit on it, H-pipe, headers, 3:73 gears. I want to keep it as an automatic so I will be looking at transmission also, any input for that? I will be looking to get about 300/350 hp that way I can stay somewhat in the lower budget.
 
What kind of condition is the present motor? Is it high mileage? Does it still have good oil pressure,cylinders seal properly,etc? If it's in good condition you really don't have to dig into the shortblock. You can buy a good topend kit(heads,cam,intake,throttle body,proper MAF and fuel system upgrades,timing chain,few gaskets,bolts,etc) and make 350-400 flywheel horsepower. This can be done for around 3-5k in parts(cheaper if using used). Lot of people use the trick flow package and it is a descent kit.

You also could look into a Vortech supercharger with the needed accessories(mostly fuel upgrades and a tune). You can do this with the factory motor and make 300-400hp or add it to the topend parts and make around your "500" number. Blower package is around the same price as a topend kit with the needed accessories.

I do suggest to upgrade chassis,brakes,transmission before adding power. You'll enjoy the car more and not worry about breaking things. The biggest weak link in these cars are the factory transmissions. They are fairly brittle and don't take the abuse of extra power and spirited driving well.

The motor is in good condition, it currently has 135k and only about 5k in the last 10yrs. The oil pressure is still good and holding. I need to replace some gaskets. I did find a Top End Kit for Trick Flow that will work with my EFI so i'm really considering it. I also need to follow some of the opinions on here as well, like making sure I've got the vehicle ready to handle the hp I want (i.e. brakes, transmission, chassis etc) Thank you for the input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
My head is spinning lol....Lot to think of. Thank you for all the input. After reading all the inputs I'm thinking of just doing a top end kit and I did see the TFS as it will work with my EFI engine with out having to do any type of tune because of the cam, at least what I've read. I currently have a Kenny Brown Stage 3 suspension kit on it, H-pipe, headers, 3:73 gears. I want to keep it as an automatic so I will be looking at transmission also, any input for that? I will be looking to get about 300/350 hp that way I can stay somewhat in the lower budget.

Do not be surprised if you need a tune with after the top end ikit, as the AOD's tend to require them more than a stick.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Would I just have to go to my local speed shop or is that something that comes with the top end kit?

A tune is something you have done after you install the parts. What you are looking to do is adjust things like timing and fuel curves, AFR, MAF, TPS settings from idle to WOT. This is something best left to an experienced person and preferably a local shop with a dyno vs. a mail order tune where you tell them what parts you have and they are using their best guess- each car is different. Expect to pay about 2-300 for the chip and then another 200-500 for the dyno sessions needed to achieve the optimal tune. When I say tune, these cars have a computer that is an older design that does not allow you to upload a new set of parameters, you acuallyt need to have a chip made with the tune on it and then install the chip into the computers access port.

There are also piggy back systems such as an Anderson PMS, Ford Tweecer, that plug into the EEC and allow you to tune it yourself. Not for the novice and more expensive.

The other option is to buy an aftermarket computer/tuner such as a megasuirt, moates quarterhors, FAST, Holley, PRO M. or other system which is often more expensive, involved, and requires you to have knowledge of how to tune the car.

Bottom line, don't expect to slap on a new top end kit and have the car run perfect without some manual tuning and/or electronic tuning.