Well, I had 2 mass air meters laying around....
Ran like ape S*&% with both meters I had....
Tried a mass air meter from a friends car, his car was know to run fine...
Guess what - it is like a new truck:
it idles at like 1,800rpms...
18-20"hg of vacuum...
It has the drivability of a stock mustang!
I just hope this stays running this well!!!
Oh yeah, this thing is a rocketship!!! Now I can put in my 42# and hook up the dry shot!
Thanks for all your help guys, hopefully I will not be posting on this thread anymore!
Glad to hear you got it sorted out...
However, can anyone explain to me how a bad MAF sensor caused low a low vac signal?
I don't get this at all, so I must have missed something really basic?
Slow LX - Can you provide some more details on the MAF/MAS you used that didn't work, and the one that did work?
Were they 'calibrated' aftermarket?
Stock Ford?
Other?
I just don't see how the MAF could have caused the vac problem.
If I don't ask I will loose sleep over it for the next week.
jason
Jason wanted to know how a MAF affected the vacuum signal. This was an answer I was waiting for - I don't buy it.
I consider the cam specs and sealing abilities inside the motor to be far and away most crucial in determining a vacuum signal.
Not exactly. Vac is related to rpm and throttle position. Not really power.Vac is basically a side-effect of the power of the motor. Vac actually works against a motor running. The more power you're making at idle the more Vac you're going to pull. You can actually set "power" timing by using a vaccum guage and setting your timing to whatever gives you the most vaccum.
His motor was running so crappy and making so little power due to being rich I suppose that it couldn't pull more than 5-8 inches.
...
Guess what - it is like a new truck:
it idles at like 1,800rpms...
18-20"hg of vacuum...
!
Yet the MAF signal was so far out of whack that it affected engine vac.no codes were for the mass air...
Not exactly. Vac is related to rpm and throttle position. Not really power.
WOT is the most power you will get at a given rpm, yet it is the lowest vac you will get at that rpm.
Power doesn't directly influence the vac signal.
Only rpm and throttle position can impact the vac signal.
I have set timing this way before.
Yes ofcourse vac is most affected by throttle position and rpm. His issue as he describes it would have affected his idle rpm and subsequently his vac.
A more effecient combustion in the cylinder results in more power from that combustion. If you have two engines, *all other things being equal* but one is idling richer than the other - therefore reducing the efficiency of the combustion resulting in less power at idle, that idle is going to be reduced because the power is reduced, resulting in less VAC.
This is the relationship I'm talking about.
But like I said before, the massive difference is hard to swallow.
I get what you're saying.
If a poor running condition causes the idle speed to decrease, then the vac will fall off.
However, it seems to have been forgotten that he had adjusted his idle rpm.
What I am saying is that if he had 8" of vac at idle while at 800rpm with a bad MAF,
then he should have 8" of vac at idle while at 800rpm with a good MAF.
Power or efficiency don't come into play.
Vac signal is a function of the cubic inch displacement, engine speed, cam timing, and throttle position.
There is no need to be discussing power...
The fact that the idle (throttle position) was adjusted (most likely with the set screw), may have an impact on the engine vac, but only 1-2", 3" at the very most.
Thanks for humoring me guys.
This is an interesting topic.
:Word:
QUESTION!
Why does 90 5.0 run great as it is warming up and terrible when it is at normal op temp??
When I start it, it dies, then next time it will run and idle a little rough. If I try to drive it right away it pops in the manifold. But after a couple minutes it runs strong through the whole rpm range.
BUT when it is hot or normal operating temperature it will run really badly, esp after I shut the car off and come back a few minutes later. I have new plugs, new distributor, new coil, new O2 sensors and new IAC valve. I have checked the voltage on all the sensors except the EVR and everything seems normal. I get a 41 and 91 code, which seems now to point to a vacuum leak.