So as some of you may know ive been working on putting a 5.4 32v (4Cams) Navigator motor into a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8. Well I went to a local automotive store where they recommended POR-15 Engine Enamel. This stuff is thick and should be brushed or sponged on. Its self leveling so you don't have to worry about leaving lines etc. Primer can be painted over rust. But the motor must be prepped properly....Gotta use Marine clean to degrease and clean the motor and Metal Ready to Etch the metal and whatever you are painting over. This stuff is STRONG....Tried Chiseling it...Its barely sandable and has a better looking finish than Powder Coat. Its guaranteed not to burn off either. It leaves a hard smooth surface...I can scratch powder coat easier than this stuff. I primed everything with the silver first. and now pics...
Yeah stuff wasn't cheap either....but then again its not my car its my friends i'm building. He makes a good Guinea Pig. Next time my motor is removed its getting painted with this stuff.
Yeah its Ford thunderbird red. They have Chevy Orange as well if ya like. Its as shiny wet as it is dry. Since its so thick it fills in alot of casting in the iron block to give a even smoother look.
not to change the subject but how much did he pay for the Navigator motor? id love to find one and eventually throw it in a notch
maybe a dumb question but why'd you paint the gasket surface? i realize the stuff is supposed to be ridiculously thick and indestructible but why chance it?
Inphiniti - Got the motor in Tiverton RI for $700 i think delivered to my driveway. It had a popped out valve seat. Changed the valve....Changed the seat...Installed a new timing set. From what i hear these 4v heads flow around 324 CFM Its just the Navigator intakes that are too big and junk. Good thing Sullivan makes a really nice aftermarket intake for it. Prokiller - Reason for painting the gasket surface is because i didnt want to leave an edge exposed. Ill be running a Canton Windage tray with black RTV between the surface and the windage tray. (Tray doesn't bolt to main caps) They said its guaranteed not to burn off....Meaning i could paint headers with this stuff. And ive been experimenting with it a little. My next experiment is to grab a blow torch and see how hot i can get it before it gives way. This stuff has me fascinated the same way Gorilla Glue did when it first came out....It's that good
Seeing as how an oil pan is not 100% the exact same shape as the bottom of the block, I could see that being a pretty stupid idea. I realize that POR-15 is supposed to be indestructable but it would be a shame if it started to flake around the edges if oil penetrated that edge and have paint flakes in your oil pan 6mos to a few years down the road... Just me though
Get a pint of POR-15...Seriously...Try it yourself... Its very oil resistant...and very permanent. I actually already tried to "CHISEL" the paint i put around the oil pan area...will not come off. Ill be using a Canton Pan and Canton Crank scraper...The scraper actually bolts between the pan and the block. Canton says not to use 2 Gaskets. But instead to use Gasket Maker between the Scraper and block (will fill in irregularities) And a Gasket between the Pan and the Scraper. In short notes...there WILL NOT be a gasket touching that painted surface....Only gasket maker Per instructions of the Oil Pan/ Scraper maker. Ive Seen Intake cleaner peel 2000 degree engine paint. Ive already used harsh cleaners on this surface (Letting them sit) with nothing. They make a helluva product. Then again time will tell
So i looked at it and looked at it again....Decided to remove the paint from the gasket surface using a carpenters chisel. Took damn near 1/2 hour to get it off. Better safe than sorry.
Hey im not on this forum to know it all. You made a valid point. Discussing what i do on the car here is like having all you guys in my garage. I will criticize criticism but i'm not so pig headed as to not listen to a valid point.
