POS wont start now

[ryan218]

runs great but...new problems

ok i have no idea what the **** is going on...drive down the that gas station put 40 in gas in it.(premium) and drive it home..on the way there it was bucking like a wild bronco...its got nonthing in it..slower then a mother****in model t..get it home...pull in drive way..it dies...starts smoking real bad from where something was dripping on the h-pipe..(oil i think)...im at a loss...i cant pull codes and cant drive the car anywhere and we have no truck big enough to pull a car this size or a trailer anymore...

any ideas?

 

[Darkwriter77]

Are you sure something is dripping ONTO the exhaust, or something has laid up against it and melted it to the point that it's dripping FROM the exhaust? Could be a wire of some kind, maybe a hard plastic vacuum line or whatever ... lots of things there, but I can't think of anything short of maybe a battery cable that would cause it to sputter and die out like that, due to that kind of condition.

Start with the visual inspections. Check EVERY little vacuum hose on the motor first. Check your major electrical connections (battery, starter, alternator), pull your battery connectors and clean them and the posts, and then work your way down to the smaller wire bundles.

Next, check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Maybe a chunk of something turned loose in the tank and your fuel sock somehow didn't get it, or maybe the sock itself or something turned loose and it's plugging the fuel filter - unlikely, but just a thought.

Next, check to see if you're getting spark to all cylinders. Check your cap/rotor and all plug wires for any signs of corrosion, burn-through (wires laying up against headers, coil wire burned through, etc.), whatever the case. Pull a couple of plugs, see if they look fouled out by something.

Other items down the list that could be suspect:

- ignition module (bench-test it at a parts store like Autozone)
- fuel pump relay or fuel pump
- water in fuel (try changing the fuel filter to see if it helps at all)
- ignition coil
- pickup coil in the dizzy
- dizzy not tightened down and rotated way out of timing spec
- voodoo curse placed upon vehicle by road-raging Vaudun priest you might have cut off in traffic
- "other"

 

[ryan218]

Are you sure something is dripping ONTO the exhaust, or something has laid up against it and melted it to the point that it's dripping FROM the exhaust? Could be a wire of some kind, maybe a hard plastic vacuum line or whatever ... lots of things there, but I can't think of anything short of maybe a battery cable that would cause it to sputter and die out like that, due to that kind of condition.

Start with the visual inspections. Check EVERY little vacuum hose on the motor first. Check your major electrical connections (battery, starter, alternator), pull your battery connectors and clean them and the posts, and then work your way down to the smaller wire bundles.

Next, check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Maybe a chunk of something turned loose in the tank and your fuel sock somehow didn't get it, or maybe the sock itself or something turned loose and it's plugging the fuel filter - unlikely, but just a thought.

Next, check to see if you're getting spark to all cylinders. Check your cap/rotor and all plug wires for any signs of corrosion, burn-through (wires laying up against headers, coil wire burned through, etc.), whatever the case. Pull a couple of plugs, see if they look fouled out by something.

Other items down the list that could be suspect:

- ignition module (bench-test it at a parts store like Autozone)
- fuel pump relay or fuel pump
- water in fuel (try changing the fuel filter to see if it helps at all)
- ignition coil
- pickup coil in the dizzy
- dizzy not tightened down and rotated way out of timing spec
- voodoo curse placed upon vehicle by road-raging Vaudun priest you might have cut off in traffic
- "other"

only thing i havent replaced elec related is dis... when i did the injectors i used a fuel rail from a 95 with 91 injectors... i should of put the fuel pressure regulator on it..and the filter is new..did that when we dropped the tank...

i got it to start but it has a surging idle..500 to 750 and so on... now i need to find the surging idle check list...

 

[jrichker]

As requested...

See "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle problems. The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

 

[ryan218]

thanks...ill start checking all that in a hour or so....i need a brake...ive reached my boiling point with the stang right now...

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

dude, I know you wont be driving for a while, so do this: go though the whole car, replace ****ty wires and pull the engine, put a stall in it some gears, clean up the engine, replace seals, ect, so when you start driving it nothing funny happens, believe me this is the voice of experience talking!!!

 

[ryan218]

dude, I know you wont be driving for a while, so do this: go though the whole car, replace ****ty wires and pull the engine, put a stall in it some gears, clean up the engine, replace seals, ect, so when you start driving it nothing funny happens, believe me this is the voice of experience talking!!!

no room in the garage to do so...not with the 2 other mustangs in there.

 

[93GTosu]

did you go through that post about pulling codes? i think if you can get that straightened out it will tell you VOLUMES. I looked at Jrichkers post about the "not pulling codes" and it seemed like ALOT of electrical stuff....things ive never been good at. It seemed like quite an undertaking, but i think you should address that problem.

its doesnt look like its gonna be an "easy" fix to get this car back up to running 100% ya know? and how long do you have before you can drive it?

Also, i'd look at fixing that rigged up wire on your fuel injector harness. Did you guys have the H-pipe hooked up when i was there? Like slow95gt said, look all over for things that look bad...wires, stuff just hanging, anything that coulda been rigged up like that injector, etc.

you're gonna definitly know your stuff once you finally get this thing up and goin good. you'll also probably feel like a million bucks if you do.

good luck

 

[ryan218]

did you go through that post about pulling codes? i think if you can get that straightened out it will tell you VOLUMES. I looked at Jrichkers post about the "not pulling codes" and it seemed like ALOT of electrical stuff....things ive never been good at. It seemed like quite an undertaking, but i think you should address that problem.

its doesnt look like its gonna be an "easy" fix to get this car back up to running 100% ya know? and how long do you have before you can drive it?

Also, i'd look at fixing that rigged up wire on your fuel injector harness. Did you guys have the H-pipe hooked up when i was there? Like slow95gt said, look all over for things that look bad...wires, stuff just hanging, anything that coulda been rigged up like that injector, etc.

you're gonna definitely know your stuff once you finally get this thing up and goin good. you'll also probably feel like a million bucks if you do.

good luck

id like it running as soon as i can get it too.. yeah that's also the problem..i don't understand **** about all that electrical and how to use the test light or meter

i bought a new diagnostic plug

i doubt ill ever get it running not unless i pull the engine which i really don't want to do at this moment.

 

[jrichker]

id like it running as soon as i can get it too.. yeah that's also the problem..i don't understand **** about all that electrical and how to use the test light or meter

i bought a new diagnostic plug

i doubt ill ever get it running not unless i pull the engine which i really don't want to do at this moment.

If you don't know it, that's an opportunity to learn something new. That can make you more valuable or have a skill the other people don’t have.

Automotive circuits are mostly simple stuff: a power source, a connection path, a control device, a load, and a ground.
The battery/alternator is the positive power source.
The wire and fuses are the connection path.
Control devices are switches, relays and sensors.
A load is a light, motor, solenoid or heater element.
In automotive circuits, grounds are the return path so the electrical power can flow from the load to the negative side of the power source.
Electricity flows like water:
Voltage is like pressure,
Current in amps is like volume,
Resistance is like the kink you put in a garden hose to decrease the pressure or volume.
Power is pressure multiplied by volume or voltage multiplied by current (amps)

Digest that, and you just got the first 3 days of Electricity 101.

Use some jumper wires (connection path and ground) to hook up a switch (control device), a battery (power source), a light bulb (load). Now make the light turn on and off with the switch.
That's the electrical lab for the first week of Electricty 101. People pay hundreds of dollars and sit in hard chairs in a stuffy classroom to learn what I just told you for free. So smile, you just got an expensive lesson for free

Here's some quick study stuff for electrical circuits: Then see http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting

 

[1.8kmint]

If you still think it is somehow related to the bucking and smoking and not electrical, describing the smoke might help us out a little in fixing your problem. Different liquids make smoke with different colors and densities, so if u could tell us the colors and stuff might help out

 

[ryan218]

it was dipping onto the H pipe by the transmission...white smoke...smelt like **** but its not rubber...pretty sure it was oil..

 

[ryan218]

and the bucking...you hold your foot in one place on the gas peddle and the rpms will go up and then drop down then go back up and drop..when you going down the road at 25 it going voom voom voom...like im gassing the throttle and then letting off and back and fourth

 

[Jaswir]

does the car have the spout connected? how about a new mass airflow sensor?

 

[stykthyn]

I somehow doubt that the dripping and your idle are related. If you have a rigged harness then I am willing to bet that your fuel isnt flowing like it is supposed to. perhaps an injector is stuck open, or not firing at all for that matter. why not just pull the engine and do a re-build on it. from the photos you have posted it looks like the car is in desperate need of it. half your harnesses look jacked up and most likely your biggest problems are tied up there.

 

[ryan218]

I somehow doubt that the dripping and your idle are related. If you have a rigged harness then I am willing to bet that your fuel isnt flowing like it is supposed to. perhaps an injector is stuck open, or not firing at all for that matter. why not just pull the engine and do a re-build on it. from the photos you have posted it looks like the car is in desperate need of it. half your harnesses look jacked up and most likely your biggest problems are tied up there.

think its my fuel pump..5 psi and 10 psi while running should be holding 35-45..

my dads holds 50 and close to 60 while running

 

[Darkwriter77]

Ding-ding-ding! We have a weiner! ... er, I mean winner!

 

[ryan218]

Ding-ding-ding! We have a weiner! ... er, I mean winner!

you been drinkin again

if this project keeps going on this way it will be put in primer and painted next year which sucks but it may happen...

 

[795.0pacecar]

my dads holds 50 and close to 60 while running

Why? It should be in the low 30s at idle and the high thirty's to low 40s with the vacuum line unplugged.

 

[ryan218]

Why? It should be in the low 30s at idle and the high thirty's to low 40s with the vacuum line unplugged.

his truck(99 ranger) not the mustang...i thought i was doing something wrong so i tryed it on his truck...i was doing it right.....

his mustang i don't know what it holds...his runs fine...no need to mess with it..