Nice. Was it a bad blasting job? Thta'll do it for sure. What;'s worse is sometimes you can have some dirt that can't be seen w/the naked eye and once you cure the powder it'll make it bubble looking like it got burned by acid. It sucks!
powdercoating
- Thread starter undercnstrction
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actually, i believe the problem was the angle at which i had to hold the gun to coat that end of the part. i'm going change the way i hang parts from now on so i don't have to aim the gun up. the yellow did seem to have a harder time flowing through the gun and it liked to have the gun more level. could be completely operator error but i had not changed anything regarding the settings on the gun between the doing the two pieces. i don't know, just a guess.
i've got one valve cover cleaned up and will clean up the other one tomorrow. after i get them degreased i'm going to bake them at 500 degrees for a while to hopefully get any further crap out of them and degas them as well. then i'll try my hand at car parts instead of wrenches
i've got one valve cover cleaned up and will clean up the other one tomorrow. after i get them degreased i'm going to bake them at 500 degrees for a while to hopefully get any further crap out of them and degas them as well. then i'll try my hand at car parts instead of wrenches
You can shoot upward without any problem, I do it all the time with both the big-money gun and the cheapo with no issues. Of course you've got to really be sure you hit your target because you can't see the area too well. You could always get an extra hanger and use it to tip the other side upward a bit so you get a better shot at the area that was facing upward.
i didn't seem to notice this issue with the red, but yellow really applied differently. it seemed like the gun kept running out of powder unless it was pointed almost horizontal or slightly down. i'm hoping it's an issue with the color and not the gun. i tried changing up the PSI and it didn't seem to make much difference. i don't know, i'll just have to keep experimenting with it i guess.
is there any difference in applying the candy coatings? caswell has a "lollypop blue" that, from the pic anyway, looks like it closely matches what's on my boat already. any special precautions, advice, prep work, etc. right above the color chart it says it needs to be applied "over polished aluminum, chrome plate or chrome powder. No clear coat required." if the pieces already have a coating on them (they are probably anodized) do i need to take them back to bare metal? my jaw dropped when i saw the price of the color. i paid $5 for the color at HF and this stuff is $25 for a single pound. i'm sure it will take me a bit to go through this color though. i don't remember the exact number but i thought i had read somewhere that it takes less than two oz to do 1 square foot? the pieces i'll be doing are deck cleats for a boat, gauge bezels, etc. so they are pretty small pieces so i should be able to do quite a few of them before i have to reorder.
i can see why people try to reuse the powder!
i can see why people try to reuse the powder!
$25/lb. is a bit expensive but the metallic colors seem to be $15+ anyway.
You could probably coat over the anodized coating but I'm not sure. Never did it. What they recommend is coating it in a chrome powder, then topping it with the candy color. That way the chrome underneath gives the reflective properties.
You could probably coat over the anodized coating but I'm not sure. Never did it. What they recommend is coating it in a chrome powder, then topping it with the candy color. That way the chrome underneath gives the reflective properties.
a little more on this......
apparenlty Lye will also strip anodizing off. i'm going to try that route first. and i also checked out powder by the pound. i think they have the blue i'm after. caswell and eastwood both have blues but not "the" blue i'm after. now i just want to make sure i know how to apply the powder correctly. if i go with a candy, i believe i have to have a base coat first?
i also want to find out how to do multiple colors. say you have a valve cover or something with lettering you want a different color, how do you do that???
apparenlty Lye will also strip anodizing off. i'm going to try that route first. and i also checked out powder by the pound. i think they have the blue i'm after. caswell and eastwood both have blues but not "the" blue i'm after. now i just want to make sure i know how to apply the powder correctly. if i go with a candy, i believe i have to have a base coat first?
i also want to find out how to do multiple colors. say you have a valve cover or something with lettering you want a different color, how do you do that???
Yea, chrome base for the 'metallic' look. black might work too but I believe the general process is chrome for most if not all of them.
I think the easiest way would be to spray the letters the color you want, cure it, then either tape them off and spray the rest of the part its own color...or spray the letters, cure them, then spray the entire part in the 2nd color and wipe the letters off. The tape idea leaves less room for error because it's tough to see minute amounts of powder sometimes.
So how did your attempt at candies go? They are hard to do well, especially with a hobby gun. I like to do a metallic silver as a base alot of the time as it gives the color a hint of sparkle in the sun. Another thing with candies is a couple light coats will usually work better than one heavy coat. You may also have to hot flock (shooting the part hot) the parts as multiple coats can be difficult with a hobby gun. As far as the anodized goes, you can shoot right over it as long as the finish is in good condtions however if you are doing a transluscent color you may want to strip first. I'm sure another thing you have already learned is when curing you go off of PMT which is part metal temperature. Go get a HF infrared temp gun, they are cheap insurance that you are properly curing your parts. Once the part gets up to the recommended curing temp you set your timer. Good luck, it is an addiction. BTW if you are going to be doing alot of parts you will learn that chemical strippers can be your friend. I use b17 and it is a life saver.
cjrpony
Member
picked up a HF gun and a few other PC supplies. i'm going to shoot a couple of wrenches today (hoefully) and see how it comes out. if i get them done, i'll shoot some pics and you all can be the judge on how well i did
Hi undercnstrction, do you still have the instruction booklet for your HF gun? I bought one of those a while back and haven't tried it yet and have since lost the instructions.
sorry for taking so long to get back you guys. it's been a bit since i've been on here.
i coated a couple of different pieces. and i actually am very happy with how they ended up. one piece is for my boat and i coated it once, not realizing that i'd be able to see through the coating and see the imperctions on the metal. so i stripped it back down, re-shot it and it came out very good. the only thing i should have done was hot flock it a bit since the color pulled away from the edges just a tad. but overall i very happy with that piece. the second piece i tried also came out very good.....BUT.....i tried to clear coat it and completely JACKED it up!!
so that part is now stripped again it will get re-shot this coming week. i also have some bud lite bottles i'm going to practice on as well. i REALLY like coating this stuff.....well except when it comes out like **** 
thanks for the input
just out of curiosity, are you on PBTP site? i swear there is a guy on there that has a "killer coating" signature or something along those line.....that you??
i'm not sure if i still have it or not. if i can remember i'll tomorrow and see if i have it. if you don't hear back from me, shoot me a PM and remind me to look for it.
cjrpony
Member
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