Power Door Locks/Alarm
- Thread starter 67FBack
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
for a super easy bolt in solution check these out
http://www.autoworksracing.com/door_and_trunk_opening_kits.htm
most stereo/alarm shops can also install power lock poppers as well and they'll likely be cheaper than the above pieces
http://www.autoworksracing.com/door_and_trunk_opening_kits.htm
most stereo/alarm shops can also install power lock poppers as well and they'll likely be cheaper than the above pieces
stangman67
Member
http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm
I have had great luck with the 2 door remote kit in a 78 f250, 84 tbird, and my 67 stang. Ive had no probs with these and its really nice quality. Door jamb drilling was tricky, but i found some nice door jamb rubber wire tubing somewhere, and it looks great and works great.
I have had great luck with the 2 door remote kit in a 78 f250, 84 tbird, and my 67 stang. Ive had no probs with these and its really nice quality. Door jamb drilling was tricky, but i found some nice door jamb rubber wire tubing somewhere, and it looks great and works great.
FYI, the "rubber wire tubing" i use is from a jeep cherokee, it's the same size as the factory door and door jamb holes for 69/70 deluxe interior cars.
jikelly
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I've got something similar that I ordered off ebay when I bought my crimestopper car alarm. I don't think this is the exact model, but it's similar http://www0.epinions.com/content_90307726980#
I didn't have to do any drilling in my 73 to install my power door actuators.
70dvr
New Member
This is the cheap way to do the lock solenoids.
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/bloodybill/13%20Power%20Door%20Locks.htm
I've had no problems at all with them.
If you go to the junk yard to get the solenoids. Take a chisel and hammer, you have to knock out an aluminum rivet.
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/bloodybill/13%20Power%20Door%20Locks.htm
I've had no problems at all with them.
If you go to the junk yard to get the solenoids. Take a chisel and hammer, you have to knock out an aluminum rivet.
When installing these door lock actuators, how did you mount the actuator?. I assume you did not drill any mounting holes where they would show.
I'm putting this remote kit in my car, http://www.electric-life.com/productdetails.asp?cid=869&rp=&yp=159.445
Here is a photo of an acuator on the bracket I made to attach it to the door. Two new holes are required, they will be covered by the door panel.
Here is a photo of an acuator on the bracket I made to attach it to the door. Two new holes are required, they will be covered by the door panel.
I'm putting this remote kit in my car, http://www.electric-life.com/productdetails.asp?cid=869&rp=&yp=159.445
Here is a photo of an acuator on the bracket I made to attach it to the door. Two new holes are required, they will be covered by the door panel.
I assume this actuator attaches to the door lock-rod with a "clamp" ? any problems hooking it up other than a little difficult to get in to it?
No, the getting to it was a pain but with a little practice it became pretty easy. I used a section of coathanger wire to mock up the needed rod, after I found the correct shape, it worked on the adjustment. Once I had figured out the mounting point for the clamp, I marked the lock rod (the one in the door) with a marker so I wouldn't have to play that game twice.
I bent the rod so the lock rod and actuator rod were side by side, this way the set screws in the clamp were facing towards the front of the car, easier to reach and see with a mirror I had placed inside the door. The rod I made was only about 2" or so long, any higher and I would have had problems due to the position of my window. I'm installing power windows at the same time, and the regulator are out of the door.
I bent the rod so the lock rod and actuator rod were side by side, this way the set screws in the clamp were facing towards the front of the car, easier to reach and see with a mirror I had placed inside the door. The rod I made was only about 2" or so long, any higher and I would have had problems due to the position of my window. I'm installing power windows at the same time, and the regulator are out of the door.
stangman67
Member
When you open my doors there are two stainless machine head screws near the lower portion under the striker, which mount the solenoid on the inside.
what year is you Mustang? On our 65, there does not appear to be much room do do it your way. Certainly sounds the best way if room permits.
65 fastback
Founding Member
I used this 2 door power door lock kit from A-1 - http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F - I have it hooked up to lock and unlock through my Viper Alarm key fob. Lock and alarm with one button, unlock and disarm with the other.
To tell the truth, I thought the installation was a PITA. The acuator rods seemed to flimsy and deflected, so I ended up using this installation method - http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=464237
Also, the actuator has more 'throw' then my door locks allow for. This made getting them adjusted difficult. If the adjustment was off, even a little, they would default to unlocked.
I ran a switch into my stock console -
To tell the truth, I thought the installation was a PITA. The acuator rods seemed to flimsy and deflected, so I ended up using this installation method - http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=464237
Also, the actuator has more 'throw' then my door locks allow for. This made getting them adjusted difficult. If the adjustment was off, even a little, they would default to unlocked.
I ran a switch into my stock console -
