Power problems

[Anaconda]

Guys,
I am requesting help. My 89GT, sometimes when driving I will be running down the road and it starts to bog down then all of a sudden it will feel strong again and accelerate fine. After driving for a while it will do it again. I have a B-cam with stock injectors, stock fuel pump, headers,cobra upper and lower intake, 3.55 gears and off road h-pipe.

Also, I was told that I should change to 24lb injectors, a larger fuel pump and under drive pulleys, I was already considering these improvements, but wanted more advice from the experts. What do you think?

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

With your mods, you're not yet exceeding the 19lb injectors. Does it have any codes present? What it sounds like is that you're experiencing a part throttle idle surge, so going over jrichker's Surging Idle Checklist is a good place to start.

 

[bsedwebt70-5.0]

I had similar problems in years past to some of my 5.0 FI stangs - several different cures were found: Fuel filter was bad on one. Fuel pump was bad on another. Hall effect unit inside the dizzy on another. Ignition control module bad on several others (most likely as I found this to be most common). Bad fuel on one. etc... I would get a fuel pressure guage and check at the schrader valve to see what that is like first. Then I would look around at all the plug wires and pop open the dizzy cap and check all the contacts. Fuel filters are normal maintenance and easy to do so you would not be wasting money if it had not been done in a long time. Then I would go after the ignition module. The ignition modules always go bad so it is a good idea to get one extra and keep it in the glove box anyway with a dizzy wrench and the special ignition module tool ($8 for tool & $30 for module that comes with dielectric grease pack) so it can be replaced if it goes out at a bad time.

 

[Anaconda]

Thanks guys,
Both replies give good advice, I will check these items and respond with the results.

 

[jrichker]

Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.