Im trying to take off the old power steering rack to put in my new manual rack. The motor is out, the ends are disconnected, the 2 nuts in the middle are off just the bolt sticking thru. How does the rack come off i ant get it to budge at all, tried to back out the 2 center bolts thru he k member but they wouldnt budge either. What do i have to do? Starting to get pretty frustrated.
Power steering rack doesnt want to come out
- Thread starter 00 Red SS
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Did you remove the steering shaft? This comes from the steering column. I think you need to drive out those bolts. They build up with rust inside the holes and make it difficult to remove.
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The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
Thanks, i did a search and found the same thing you just typed in a different thread 
. Im gonna go and undo the steering shaft and see if it pops loose. Ill update in a lil bit. FYI the manual rack from autozone (79fairmont) was $175 w/ tax, $125 w/ a core but they wont accept the old power steering so it doesnt really help.
. Im gonna go and undo the steering shaft and see if it pops loose. Ill update in a lil bit. FYI the manual rack from autozone (79fairmont) was $175 w/ tax, $125 w/ a core but they wont accept the old power steering so it doesnt really help.I disconnected the flex coupling but the rack still doesnt want to move, not sure if its the bushings or what but how do i slide it off the friggin bolts. Ive tried prying it off and it would flex and then pull right back when the pressure let off, the rubber bushings look like they go all the way thru and have lips on both sides so it doesnt want to push or pull thru 
Im sure others have had this problem?
Im sure others have had this problem?
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