Progress Thread Project Problem Child

91gte303

Active Member
Mar 3, 2015
144
18
28
Lake city,SC
Well, the back story is, my uncle bought this car for 1500 as a project with his son. Had a broken windshield,was a short block and all the driveline sitting in the car. Guy said the engine had just been rebuilt had an e303 cam, zt5, 3.73s, 90/10s in front, stock shocks out back with 4cyl springs in the back and a 155lph fuel pump. Claimed the car was never raced and so forth.
My uncle took the guys word for it did a Lil work with it. Like gt40 heads,gt40 intake and so on. windshield and interior stuff. His son was more interested in his iPhone and his friends, so my uncle sold it to me for 4200.
I put on the road and it never really ran right,tho strong and the ass end would always feel like it would throw the car hard to the right when I got on it and it would leat tras mission fuild whend i got on it,too.. Well, about 6 months after I got it....let's just say I'm in a divorce and I parked it jic.
Decide I was tired of it front firing and acting stupid when I drove it.
Pulled the engine and took it to work.
Stock cam, bent rod and bent crank.
Got to lookin at the torque boxes and the lower driver side is being held together with about an 1/8" at steel.
So here is how it sits.
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when I figure out how to fix the pictures, I will.
anyway, so the plan is to get close to 300RWHP or a sub 12.50 in the 1/4. it will also be a DD
Engine:
0 decked block
new factory crank
one rod
king bearings
n41 cam
good valve springs and hardware
port the heads, mill them .015" and grind new seats
proform roller rockers
ported explorer lower and regular upper
24lb injectors
65mm TB
C&L 76MM MAF and elbow
BBK longtubes

Exhaust:
O/R H-pipe 2.5" and undecided on mufflers. I had 40's on it( bought that way) but am tired of them. not quite the sound or volume id like. was thinking either 10 series, LM1, or spintec's
(yall wanna help me here?)

Transmisson:
IDK if its a ZT5 or a normal WCT5. guess it will stay till it kills itself.
Have a ram Clutch kit from American Muscle.
Billet quadrant, adjustable cable and firewall adjuster

suspension:
gonna get the Wild ride upper and lower plate kit.
UMI lift bars for lowers and undecided on uppers.
kinda wanna ditch the 4cyl springs in the back. car looks like a dog squatting to pee going down the road. so that's up in the air right now.
the front struts might be 90/10's, probably not. I don't know what I can do here, but I do know the front of the car sits high as crap all the time and its waaaay worse if I kick it.

Fuel:
I know im gonna get at least a 155lph pump. might go ahead and get a 255lph walboro for giggles and the off chance I put a shot on the car.

battery:
Already in the back.
 
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As far as the interior, its almost what I want. just gonna put the map bags back on the doors, fix the map light and the dome light.
I already have a new head unit and some good 6x8's and door speakers.
gonna find me a set of tweeters to go in the dash.
Im also gonna build a ported box and a sundown audio 8" sub. knock it if you want but them damned things hit hard and low. look them up.

only other things I want to address on the interior is the stitching on the carpet for where the seat folds down, but that's not that big of a deal.

Exterior:
Either buy new moldings or fix the ones I have.
fix the gap between the hood and the right front fender.
Repaint the metal clip on moldings around the windshield, hatch glass and side windows.
might buy new quarter glass or buy those plastic stick ons.
Car will be painted Viper Red.


time frame for the most of this? by this spring or summer......basically as long as its done before fall.
I have most all the parts I need already.
 
Have you calculated compression milling the heads and zero decking the block? You shouldn't need to do either if you are shooting for 300 whp. Do some work on the heads and the top end you described will get you there.
 
Good luck on your build. Ditch the 4cyl springs in back. Find some stock v8 ones or better yet check out TeamZ Motorsports and buy their rear drag springs. They sit about 3/4" lower than stock and work great on and off the track. While there you should check out their street beast upper and lower control arms. I also don't like 90/10 struts. They are to loose/soft on the street and sit to high. I recommend going maximum Motorsports coilovers with some adjustable struts. I used strange engineering and highly recommend them.

Buy a Walboro 255 pump and be done. It's like 90-100$ and unless you're going to add forced induction you'll never need a bigger pump. As far as mufflers go...it's really a personal preference. I like the flowmasters but if you want louder, I hear the spintechs are the ticket. If you want a mellow nice note, check out walker(I can't remember the part/model name/number). They don't have any of the dreaded drone issues.
 
I cc'ed the chambers at 62.5 cc's on all 8. so at .015" it should kick me down to 60cc's even. the block was already 0 decked at some point and the decks are glass flat. from what I understand, the stock trw's were +4.5 cc's. so, with 60cc's, an .039" thick gasket with a 4.100 bore, 0 deck and such....it SHOULD be 9.5:1. im just looking for compression to build my dynamic up from the bottom end of 7.5:1 to 8.1:1.
im not 100% sure,tho
 
I cc'ed the chambers at 62.5 cc's on all 8. so at .015" it should kick me down to 60cc's even. the block was already 0 decked at some point and the decks are glass flat. from what I understand, the stock trw's were +4.5 cc's. so, with 60cc's, an .039" thick gasket with a 4.100 bore, 0 deck and such....it SHOULD be 9.5:1. im just looking for compression to build my dynamic up from the bottom end of 7.5:1 to 8.1:1.
im not 100% sure,tho
4.100" bore?
 
I
Good luck on your build. Ditch the 4cyl springs in back. Find some stock v8 ones or better yet check out TeamZ Motorsports and buy their rear drag springs. They sit about 3/4" lower than stock and work great on and off the track. While there you should check out their street beast upper and lower control arms. I also don't like 90/10 struts. They are to loose/soft on the street and sit to high. I recommend going maximum Motorsports coilovers with some adjustable struts. I used strange engineering and highly recommend them.

Buy a Walboro 255 pump and be done. It's like 90-100$ and unless you're going to add forced induction you'll never need a bigger pump. As far as mufflers go...it's really a personal preference. I like the flowmasters but if you want louder, I hear the spintechs are the ticket. If you want a mellow nice note, check out walker(I can't remember the part/model name/number). They don't have any of the dreaded drone issues.

yeah, if I can swing it, ill do the teamZ's. ill look into the coil overs. is there a bid difference?
yeaaaah, I think ll just do the 255. thanks for making my mind up on that.lol
as far as the mufflers...I like the 10's, but my uncle has them. the LM1's seem to like to sound like a half dead tow truck on some setups and frekin amazing on others. but the spintecs seem to sound awesome on everything....im bad about making those kinda choices.lol
 
There is a huge difference between conventional springs and coilovers. You can adjust your ride height and they are lighter. With adding the adj struts and rear shocks, you have a completely adj suspension. Take it to the track and set it for racing. Readjust(struts and shocks) and drive it home. For the springs just set the ride height where you like it and be done. I bought 150# springs but most like the 175-225# if it is going to see a lot of street time. The lighter the spring the more weight transfer. With heavier spring rate you will have a stiffer-handling type suspension. Coilovers aren't a must but...they are worth it(IMO).
 
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well yall, I think im gonna try and push the old turd into the carport and fiddle with it to some degree tomorrow. boss is going out of town, so im gonna have the day off.
now its just tryiin to figure out what im gonna do. haha
 
lets try this....
 

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