What I have personally is a 1/0 from battery to trunk floor that's bolted. I also did a #4 from engine to body up front. If I have issues and need the additional ground from battery/floor up to engine then I'll do it.
Progress Thread Project Swampfox
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Finished up my battery box and returned the tank. For anyone who read my last post about moving the fuel tank with it still on the car, empty it out or make sure it's on E. It's hard as hell to put back into place while its full....
I'm finishing up my vacuum lines.
What do you guys think about this.
"S"- source from manifold
"B/R"- one line that splits to fuel pressure regulator and the other leads to the mini tree on the left. The mini tree feeds to the vacuum ball in the pass. Fender and the cabin vent control.
"A/C"- capped
"S/C"- capped
"B/B"- to brake booster
My worry is that I'll loose fuel pressure at WOT. I can run my AC or SC to the Fuel pressure regulator alone but wouldn't that mean my reso ball is only backing up my cabin vents? And in that case why not just delete the ball if it's only not going to work at WOT?
I probably just don't grasp the concept but any input is cool.
I'm finishing up my vacuum lines.
What do you guys think about this.
"S"- source from manifold
"B/R"- one line that splits to fuel pressure regulator and the other leads to the mini tree on the left. The mini tree feeds to the vacuum ball in the pass. Fender and the cabin vent control.
"A/C"- capped
"S/C"- capped
"B/B"- to brake booster
My worry is that I'll loose fuel pressure at WOT. I can run my AC or SC to the Fuel pressure regulator alone but wouldn't that mean my reso ball is only backing up my cabin vents? And in that case why not just delete the ball if it's only not going to work at WOT?
I probably just don't grasp the concept but any input is cool.
It looks as if there has been some wrenching going on in here. 
and yeah... Try to keep the FPR vac line as isolated as possible. It should have it's own line directly to the manifold if possible.
and yeah... Try to keep the FPR vac line as isolated as possible. It should have it's own line directly to the manifold if possible.
Got it, I can do that too easy. And oh yes. I've been going at it none stop to bring this fox back from the dark side. Thanks @FoxMustangLvrIt looks as if there has been some wrenching going on in here.
and yeah... Try to keep the FPR vac line as isolated as possible. It should have it's own line directly to the manifold if possible.
I can't really find clarity on this but, anyone have a PICTURE of a location to mount a second water temp sender?
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Couple of places
1. if you no longer have the EGR coolant lines hooked up, use the tapped boss in the back of the passenger lower intake that the hose went into.
2. Use a thermostat housing with a screw in plug and put the sensor in the hole for the plug
3. @jrichker - he has a diagram that shows an T insert that you place inline in the rad hose
Attachments
Couple of places
1. if you no longer have the EGR coolant lines hooked up, use the tapped boss in the back of the passenger lower intake that the hose went into.
2. Use a thermostat housing with a screw in plug and put the sensor in the hole for the plug
3. @jrichker - he has a diagram that shows an T insert that you place inline in the rad hose
Thanks a lot. I tapped her up this morning. Went with the old EGR hose location.
All right so I've been getting road ready, slowly but surely. My main goal is to get the car on the road for the duration of the summer and this winter I'll tear her all down, sand everything, fix rust, weld ect. And come next spring I'll shoot her with a fresh paint choice. That being said I decided to wait on shaving my bay. I am still tucking and hiding the non essentials but I'm not dealing with the holes. I have a set of Scott rod aprons I'll weld in this winter.
-Got the wheels cleaned up and wrapped. A few blemishes on them but I got the whole set for $150 buck sooooo yeah.
-rears are 15x8 wrapped in 275/50/15 NT555R. They fit perfect. No BFH or fender roll needed. I'll probably end up rolling my fenders anyway just because I forsee 10" wheels in the future and I'll want to drop the ass about an inch.
Today I'm working on the motor more. Reassembling coolant and intake system. Hope to have test fire this weekend.
Question, anyone running and electric fan off center on the their radiator? Until I can weld and custom fabricate a new bracket for my fan, my radiator cover/mount forces my fan to be mounted to one side roughly 5inches off center. I don't see a big issue but maybe I'm wrong?
-Got the wheels cleaned up and wrapped. A few blemishes on them but I got the whole set for $150 buck sooooo yeah.
Today I'm working on the motor more. Reassembling coolant and intake system. Hope to have test fire this weekend.
Question, anyone running and electric fan off center on the their radiator? Until I can weld and custom fabricate a new bracket for my fan, my radiator cover/mount forces my fan to be mounted to one side roughly 5inches off center. I don't see a big issue but maybe I'm wrong?
I dig those wheels bro! You won't be disappointed with SR panels. What kind of welder do you have? MIG? Flux? Gas is best and make sure you down size your wire size (if it isn't already) so you won't have to get it so hot and burn through. I had the best luck with .025 wire and C25 gas on my Lincoln 140.
As far as the fan goes I don't see it to be much of a bad thing so long as you have decent coverage still with your fan shroud. Just watch your temps once you get it back on the road. What size and type of fan?
Make sure you check out the torque sequence for the intake. See below. (I also left the vacuum info in there, you might need it)
As far as the fan goes I don't see it to be much of a bad thing so long as you have decent coverage still with your fan shroud. Just watch your temps once you get it back on the road. What size and type of fan?
Make sure you check out the torque sequence for the intake. See below. (I also left the vacuum info in there, you might need it)
Vacuum line connections:
One large vacuum line from the upper front goes to the carbon canister
One large vacuum line from the rear goes to the vacuum tree.
One small line in the front feeds the Smog pump solenoid control valves on the rear of the passenger side wheel well..
One small line in the rear goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
One small line in the rear goes to the EGR suction regulator.
One large line in the rear goes to the PVC valve.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Typical Vacuum Routing for a Fox stang 5.0:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence for a 5.0 Fox stang:
Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
Here's some tips...
Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.
The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.
Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put some cardboard in the lifter valley to help catch the gasket scrapings. Have a shop vacuum handy to suck up the scrapings and any coolant that leaked into the lifter valley.
Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Be sure to put a rag or cap in the block where you removed the distributor. It will save you trouble if something falls into the empty distributor hole.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. TADA! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( BWD - Home ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
Parts Plus – Premium Auto Parts & Accessories or Auto Value or Pep Boys | Tires | Auto Repair & Service | Car Parts | Car Accessories or Federated Auto Parts
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber. Heat the pintle caps in boiling water to soften them to make them easier to install.
Plan on doing an oil change within 2 hours of run time on the engine. This will get the debris and coolant out of the oil pan.
What can happen if you don’t use the stay in place gasket…
Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. Spay everything with anything you have, and you won't find the leak...
So no sh!t there I was reinstalling my coolant system and I accidentally broke the copper probe on my electric fan. Unfortunately it snapped right at the head of the probe so now the probe itself is leaking the fluid that's inside. I attempted to Solder it back together but that's not gonna work. Do I have any options other than buying an entire new fan? Can't I just run a manual switch to the fan to turn it on at temp? I intend on buying a new fan set up in the near future but I can't afford to do it now and I would like to be able to run the car as soon as I'm finished reassembly. Also, does anyone have this fan and know where and how to mount the switch. I can't find instructions online anywhere.
@Project Swampfox
What brand electric fan is that? Manual switches are a terrible idea, what if you forget to turn it on? Or off? Maybe you can bypass that controller and get a new one like a Derale from LMR. They're pretty inexpensive.
What brand electric fan is that? Manual switches are a terrible idea, what if you forget to turn it on? Or off? Maybe you can bypass that controller and get a new one like a Derale from LMR. They're pretty inexpensive.
You could take that blue and black wire and hook it directly up to a new controller assuming those two wires are the hot and ground coming from your fan motor.
Hell yea that's a good idea. I didn't even think of that. I think they are since the only thing the controller up top is doing essentially is monitoring temp.
Idk the brand. It came with the vehicle mounted to the stock radiator. From the looks it just a Jegs special
A new controller, depending on which type you get, will come with a new coolant temp sensor NPT style or a temp sensor probe that sticks in your radiator fins. Either work well and if you get one with the NPT threads you can get a thermostat housing that's already tapped for that sensor from your local auto parts store for about $12.
Your fan looks like this ProForm
Proform Mustang Electric Fan Kit (86-93) 5.0
Derale fan controller, not sure if it has soft start or not.
Adjustable Fan Controller 150-240 Degree
Water neck housing with tapped hole for temp sensor
Murray Climate Control 84884 - Water Outlet | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Proform Mustang Electric Fan Kit (86-93) 5.0
Derale fan controller, not sure if it has soft start or not.
Adjustable Fan Controller 150-240 Degree
Water neck housing with tapped hole for temp sensor
Murray Climate Control 84884 - Water Outlet | O'Reilly Auto Parts
This, from what I hear, is a better controller. It's a variable speed heavy duty fan controller that starts the fan/fans at 60% then to 100%. Also keeps the fans going for 30 seconds after you turn the engine off. I am in the process of installing this controller on my Notch right now for my dual fans.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-33054
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-33054
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