Project Unfinished Business: 95PGTTech's 1998 Cobra build...

[95PGTTech]

Got everybody cleaned up and ready to go home.

A little trick - put some ATF onto a rag or cloth and wipe out the bores with it after machining - it is naturally high in detergents and it will get the last little bit of crap out after machining, even if hot tanked (check out the rag).

My wife welds, and assembles Modulars. Hell, if she wants me to keep this POS, she better pay for it and assemble its stupid overcomplicated junk.

All done! Oil pump in, pickup on, windage tray supports on.
Waiting on the windage tray (MMR says not in stock yet...), and getting my stand back...

More work on the line lock. Still one fitting short...

Finished up shaving my headers. I'd like to pick up some 1.75 x 3 longtubes with V band from ARH, we'll see what the price quote is. Otherwise I'm modifying these.

 

[95PGTTech]

Cleaned up a ton of parts, bolted on the oil cooler with the new gasket and the A/C compressor after switching the clutches.

Drilled a hole in my tail light.

Used copper RTV to make a witness mark and went to work on the car.

Came out about as well as I had hoped. I need to find a smaller battery to get the switch and the battery inside the box for an all-around cleaner look.

 

[95PGTTech]

My new gauges came in for the torch so I went at that bearing I wanted to. $400 worth of Ford tools do what I did with five seconds with a torch and two pry bars.

Various states of stupidness:

2 jaw puller did a good job on the other part requiring 3 Ford tools again (another $300). And torch did another bearing again. I am definitely going to need a hydraulic press to dissemble the actual countershaft and output shaft assemblies, but I saved myself $800 so far in ford tools and I was looking for an excuse for a press anyway. I'm pretty pleased with myself.

A couple connectors broke on the car so Steve @ Tousley Ford sent me the replacement pigtails. Instead of cutting up the wiring and soldering, I depinned the broken connectors and the new ones and just put the new connectors on.

 

[95PGTTech]

01 Cobra upper, with the IAC welded shut...yay...

Aerospace billet 10-15lb nitrous bottle brackets

ACT Tracklite flywheel, 11" (which I specifically asked and now need to return, I want to stay 10.4"

Starter and alternator, alternator bracket

 

[95PGTTech]

mach1 IAC, it has two open ports so I'm going to have to do something with that upper...

redline tuning hood struts with all the options, full black no old man chrome ****

C head parts from Steve @ Tousley, some hard to find crap got it at a lot better pricing than Corral.net jackasses wanted.

Had time to install new A/C drier from Steve - anytime you open the A/C system this should be replaced, the dessicent bag is pretty useless once you open it to atmosphere.

Oddessey battery - holy crap this thing looks like an ATV battery

Karkraft spacer minus the gasket - cut MMR out as the middle man paid half price.

 

[95PGTTech]

Before:

After:

Redline Tuning hood struts:

60's Shelby replica lanyards, much nicer:

 

[95PGTTech]

did a bunch of fitment on the side skirts last two days, nothing great to picture. slow, annoying work, but the wife loves them dearly, so whatever.

replaced the turn signal switch. had to remove the gauge cluster surround and frog pod I have to get to it. I had wanted to finish the wiring on them better anyhow.

Finished up the hardware part of the battery box, cutoff, etc. Just wiring left.

Got the bottle mounted in such a fashion I can actually get it out of the car. God was this a sheep skin for six bolts.

Obviously had to drop the tank to do all that. Left it down because pump is on the way. I have one of those gaskets for the filler neck around here somewhere too...

 

[95PGTTech]

Installed my 2001 Cobra throttle and cruise cables, and cruise/throttle bracket.

“MMR” Canton windage tray. So then we get to fitment. Again, ******* wonderful. The allen key stud/locknut system and instructions were equally stupid. None of the holes were the same depth so none of the studs bottomed out the same. Some red loctite and tried to get them about the same. Put the oil pan gasket on, some silicone at the corners and the pan. I eventually got it all flush but it made a big pop when it finally did, so who knows. Quickly did the clay impression on the oil pickup to the oil pan and it looked good.

Got engine onto stand and off table.

Pressed the races out of the centersection with some ingenuity. Avoided another couple hundred in Rotunda tools by using a hammer, a block of wood, one large socket, and the piston ring compressor. So far, I have zero dollars invested in buying tools for this rebuild other than the hydraulic press and bearing pull tool that I had on order anyway, when Rotunda wanted over $2000 for the specialty tools for the T45. Hopefully I can keep it up.

Got most of the tailshaft and bellhousing done too.

 

[95PGTTech]

Today I stayed at home and worked on the wiring harness.

Tools needed:

Got spaghetti?

IMRC, EGR solenoid, DPFE, coil pack removed from engine harness. I need to still replace the fuse-box to alternator wire in this section, and I'd like to eliminate the two smog pump connectors on the car harness (as well as do the small section of battery harness). I'm only eliminating the wiring to the bulk connectors - just to get the unused connectors out of the bay. I could trace them all the way back to the PCM, but the effort to result ratio goes up dramatically. This isn't a racecar, those few ounces aren't going to hurt me any.

Took apart the Aviator wiring harness I had. Success. COPs factory wiring are all mine muahahahahhahahahaha.

 

[95PGTTech]

I finally tracked down and installed my fuel tank filler neck grommet. With some vaseline, it wasn't nearly as bad as an install as everyone complains.

I installed my one-touch down module on the passenger side door, so now I have AUTO down on both driver and passenger side. Pretty cool little feature for ~$40. I took the door panel off to do it, it says you can do it by just removing the door cup. I used some body moulding tape to mount the module to the door, I didn't want it flopping around in there. Also, be a man and throw out the stupid butt splices and scotchlocks they supply - on ANYTHING electrical, bust out the soldering iron. There are few things more annoying than tracking down electrical issues down the road.

I purchased Paul's 3 gauge bezel (member on sn95forums). It looks to be a nice quality unit and I like it a lot better than the steering column shroud pod and the gauge bezel pod I had, I'll be putting those back to stock.

I took the time to rent a heavy duty slide hammer to pull out the pilot bearing. It didn't go quietly.

I also needed it to pull one last bearing out of the tailshaft, so now that's done.

I removed the tail lights one more time since my sequential turn signal harnesses came in. I'm good with electrical so I opted for the splice in kit to save a few bucks. Again, toss out the scotch locks and twist splices they supply and get your big boy soldering iron.

 

[95PGTTech]

I think my wife is starting to get annoyed with me doing electrical work on the living room floor.

You need to use a scratch awl to poke a new hole in the inside lamp harness and insert the supplied white wire/connector into it. The tab is just like the factory stuff so it's actually pretty well set up. This harness is later moved to the center.

It helped to just take off all the factory loom/tape and mark what bulbs come from where - see how the inside bulb moves to the center and vice versa?

A proper solder joint should appear as such. You'll get a lot more life out of this than a butt splice. You can make your life real easy by slipping some heat shrink tubing over one wire first, then using your heat gun on it when you're done with the solder. When you can't do that, electrical tape does a good job too.

Passenger side. Keep in mind I have the hole drilled through the reverse light, so I just completely eliminated the bulb/connector/harness by depinning the car connector. For inspection purposes, I pay for a sticker, but Adam and I have a backup set of 96+ taillights and harnesses. Just plug those in and they work correctly, the car is stock from the body connector on back.

Driver side. Don't tape the grommets into the harness. The fit is tight enough, but it allows you some wiggle room for when you go to install them back in the car.

 

[95PGTTech]

Reinstalled tail lights, confirmed the lights work correctly.

And got some of the wiring done.
Unfortunately, I am going to need to find a new switch - this cheap JEGS one only works to cut power in one small section. If you don't completely 100% push in the push/pull switch, or you push it even a bit too far, it doesn't cut power. Not acceptable, not if the car is on its roof and spilling fuel and my life depends upon it working.

 

[95PGTTech]

Finished painting the bellhousing.

Weight reduction.

Heater and blanket.

Got billet?

Starting to get the 0 and 4 gauge up through the car and the nitrous feed line.

Electric bottle opener.

How the day ended up. Pulled the back upper seats and the bracket so I could notch the bracket to better clear the 0 gauge.

Trunk. Still need to run the 4 gauge to the cutoff switch, replace the cutoff switch, etc.

 

[95PGTTech]

Got more of this tedious wiring done today.
My last evolution of the battery box, now with 4AUG alternator wiring.

Inline fuse holder for the alt.

Mounted the jumper posts up front, required some bracket clearance.

Pretty much finished up the main 0AUG battery positive wire.

 

[95PGTTech]

I did some thinking and this is how I'm wiring up my relocate - I did it wrong the first time.

alternator wired. I marked it with green tape where it needs to go through the fender wall. Once I decide what type of terminal/junction I'm doing for it, I'll cut it. Since I'm looming it inside the factory harness, it needs to be able to be disconnected if I ever remove the harness from the car.

And what I hope to be the last revision of my battery box. Then again, I said that last time.
View attachment 230418


Grounded the ground stud I had up front. View laying on creeper looking up.

Overlayed starter harness ground wires. I need to pick up some more red 0AUG to do the positive.

Snaked the nitrous through the p/s frame rail and into the engine bay. Does anyone know if there are any companies that make custom length nitrous lines? I'd imagine it would not be that difficult to do with the correct tools, I don't want to try to hide extra feet of line. Magnets, mirrors, bendy lights, and mechanics wire help with fishing.

 

[95PGTTech]

Hydraulic press is finally here so I got the input, output, and countershafts disassembled today after assembling the press. I got gears 2-3 back onto the countershaft, too.

Where does all this stuff go back?

So I figured out what works better than the hammer on that throw out bearing retainer sleeve.

Need to rent that slide hammer again...

The countershaft looks like a serious weapon fully disassembled. Damn thing still weighs 15lbs.

This is the little crap that you need to pay attention to that makes you a professional instead of some cheap ass under a tree. Make sure you index the synchronizer assembly prior to disassembly so it goes back the same way. It will go back together and you won't know anything is wrong until you put it all back together and you have funny noises and gears that don't work. Take your time, make the measurements, and read read read.

Got some back on the countershaft today.

 

[95PGTTech]

Got more on the transmission done, need a few small things.
More of the output shaft.

To press the tapered roller bearing onto second gear, Rotunda calls for the following two tools. Even getting them from an aftermarket third party supplier, just these two are over $125.

EFF that.

Worked like a charm and worked later on too.

Annoying synchros - thank God I marked them.

Finished the output today.

As well as the countershaft.

Gee, what's missing off my stock 3rd gear blocker ring?

I also somehow managed to crack the stock 3-4 shift fork. Didn't know my guns were that big.

Finally got around to painting the last piece, the tailshaft housing.

Both races pressed into the case. As usual, more creativity necessary. I priced out the original tool sets to just tear down the transmission, not even disassemble the subassemblies and it was well over a grand. I'd probably be in two with all the tools for the subassemblies and the reassembly. Right now my costs sit at $135 for the press which I was going to get sooner or later anyway.

And I can admit when I'm wrong. I went to rebuild the 5th-reverse synchro today, and the hub would not fit in the sleeve properly. It's got heat marks all over it, I have a feeling this was the one I heated red-hot to get it off with the torch. The others were slight heat and popped right off, this one took me holding it there. I think I may have FUBAR'd it, so I need to get a price on a new one tomorrow. Oh well. I think the collar, hub, puller, and removal sleve were like $500 so if it's less than that I won.

 

[95PGTTech]

Output shaft bushing and seal installed. 32mm socket ftw.

Countershaft bearing and retainer...what a *****. Also the stupid reverse idler stuff.

Paul's billet bezel. I must say, it installed without the grinding required and fits perfectly, I am extremely satisfied for the price.

 

[95PGTTech]

I swung by AAP to pick up the puller again to try and pull the race out of the input shaft...didn't work. Stupid sheep skin...

More out of need for space than desire to get this step done, I mounted the new Hunsaker seats. I ordered the brackets from Hunsaker but after mounting Scat ProCar seats in another customer's car and having the brackets arrive in a Scat box I'm tempted to say they are Scat brackets (as well has having the SAME fitment issues).

Being 6' 5", I mounted the passenger side (did that one first) on the lowest possible setting. Just like in the other customer's car, when you use the lowest setting (highest bolt point) the lower bolt points hit the floorboard on the front inside. It also hits the wiring harness on the front outside, but I suspect once the carpet is in this may be resolved. So in order to use this setting, I would need to cut the bracket and remove the middle and highest setting, which I'd rather not do until I test fit those settings.

I mounted the driver side on the highest possible setting, and was uncomfortably close to the ceiling, although I could bolt it down since nothing hits on the highest setting. Bolted down, there is about a half inch from the inside bolster to the center console, but the upper shoulder part on the outside hits the driver door panel. I am going to try and move the seat more centerward on the seat bracket. Overall, I'm not thrilled with this kind of fitment out of a $200 set of seat brackets, but after going through the same thing with my $200 set of Sparco seat brackets and having to cut them up and reweld them so much I'd just have been better off making my own, they aren't THAT bad. Again, I had these same exact issues with the other car, so I suspect they are Scat brand.

Overall, the seats don't look too out of place in the car, and they run a bit wider than most brands.
I feel like they were a cost effective choice for helping make my Cobra back into a street car.

 

[95PGTTech]

Just to test fit the second lowest position, the front inside bracket needs to be cut. But the highest is definitely TOO high, so whatever.

Which also ended up still being too high, possibly good for her but my head is almost still on the roof. In order to get it down to the lowest setting, the front inside bracket needs to be cut down again (so only one remains). The rear inside and the front outside also need to be chopped one setting. You can see in the pictures I also finished slotting the outside brackets further, even when finally at the right height we still had that problem of being too close to the door panel.

After finally having the height about correct and the seat off the doorpanel (albeit, now on the center console), we started measuring. The seat is the same height left to right, and front to back height is personal preference/comfort, so we didn't put any washers below the bracket between the floorboard. We measured the centerline of the seating area and centered the seat to the steering wheel and the pedals, then made sure the seat was square to the chassis using the pinch weld as a reference point for measuring. Fifteen thousand adjustments later, we had the seat fully tightened down to the bracket and the bracket to the floorboard.

One at a time, very cramped, I attempted to remove one bolt from the floor and clean the bracket off, then put a washer over and tack it in place. Put the nut/bolt back in, go on to the next. When I was done, I pulled it from the car and removed the bracket and slider from the seat to weld it. I finished cleaning off the areas with the wire wheel.

Just tacked:

Finish welded one washer:

I then tacked the slider-to-bracket joint, removed the hardware, and finished weld:

Why all the hassle? For one, where I slotted those two slider-to-bracket joint, half my entire body weight is resting on now about a 1/4" thick 1/4" wide piece of steel being clamped by the washer. Not cool. But more importantly, now that we found proper seat position, there is no need for adjustability, and the slots. I could get my impact gun and tighten everything as hard as it will go, but there is always the possibility of time, vibration, and my pure bad luck of stuff loosening up and needing adjustment again. With the washers finish welded in place, the seat goes in one way now...any time I remove the seats, I don't need to remeasure and readjust, they only go in one way, very tightly.

More importantly, people other than myself drive this car from time to time. My stupidity ending me is a risk I take, it has to be overdone safe if anyone else is going to be at risk. The seat bracket and slider are now one assembly, and there is no more tiny sliver of steel holding my weight up, it's one solid unit. There are four allen head grade 10 bolts and locknuts that hold the slider to the seat, I'll loctite them in.