Prostop Ceramic front brake pads, did I make a mistake?

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by jayrw, Mar 28, 2011.


  1. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    I was running Duralast Gold C-Max ceramic pads up front and they had excellent stopping power but created an insane amount of dust, I was always having to wash my rims.

    They lasted 1 year before wearing down so I decided to try another brand in hopes of reducing dust output.

    I went with a Pepboys brand "Prostop" Ceramic front pads (part# PR804C) based on random user comments claiming they create virtually no dust output (other vehicles & forums via google search results).

    My question is do certain ceramic pads need break in time before they actually work properly? The install sheet says to allow 1,000 miles for break in but doesnt mention if the actual braking power will be reduced during this time.

    I have to press the pedal a lot harder to stop vs. my previous duralast pads.

    Brake fluid reservoir is full, any ideas appreciated.

    Car is a 2000 GT w/ stock rotors.

    Edit: brake pads only have around 15 miles on them just installed today.
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  2. joshjwc9

    joshjwc9 Active Member

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    Did you have rotors turned or replaced when installing the new pads? Did you bleed your brakes?

    The 1k mile break in period seems a little too long. I have always done the get the brakes warm without stopping 3-5 times and then park it and let them cool completely.
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  3. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    The rotors don't have any unusually deep pits they seemed pretty smooth but no ive never had them turned and haven't bleed brakes. Guess ill try bleeding them next.

    I looked at the install paper again it just says "Full seating normally occurs within 1000 miles."
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  4. SteedaGT9150

    SteedaGT9150 Advanced Member

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    When i put hawk pads on my fox i had a break in period where i had to apply different amounts of pressure on the brakes at certain speeds. I would also tend to stay clear of cheaper brand pads, yes they may be cheaper, but do you really want to skimp out on something such as brakes? For a near stock car, the OEM pads are more than suitable.
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  5. GDawg

    GDawg Founding Member

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    I just put on a decent set of ceramics from O'Reillys, all the way around. (C600, C627). They were really dusty for the first few weeks but they aren't too bad now. I still see a little dust though. I put new rotors on my rears and turned my fronts.
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  6. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    After driving it today for awhile they seem to be working better, They're still not where I'd want them but im hoping most of this is just a break in thing.

    I doubt ill be trying a random cheaper brand next time, The Cmax duralast gold pads had amazing stopping power right from the get go, its just the dust output was a joke.
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  7. RedondosTires

    RedondosTires New Member

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    Your rotors are probably glazed, you should have turned them when you did your brakes, turn your rotors and sand your brake pads lightly. Break your pads in by doing about 3 hard stops from about 30 mph down to a complete stop.
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  8. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    After looking at my rotors now and images of glazed rotors online you might just be right. Found a guide that basically says to do what you mentioned, Looks easy enough Thanks for the suggestion.
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  9. fast97gt

    fast97gt Active Member

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    Oh so you did what's referd to as a "pad slap" a grave NO NO, you always have them specked and if within specs turn them. If they're out of spec replace them, your brakes will not break in properly and you'll get that really annoying squeel in a few thousand miles. I too run the duralast ceramics but virtually no dust. When you did the duralast pads previously did you turn/replace the rotors, if not it could be where the dust comes into play, the rotors could have been glazed before then.
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  10. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    Guilty as charged :shrug:

    Ive only changed the brakes twice since Ive owned the car and didn't turn the rotors either time, For now I did the sandpaper method that ive seen on various forums, I used 120 grit sandpaper on the rotors to clear some of the glaze, this actually helped stopping power more than I thought it would, Next time ill be sure to have the rotors properly turned if they're still in spec. If not ill just buy new ones.

    I did have another question tho, How much drag should there be on the rotors with the wheels off? (front brakes, calipers & pads still in place).

    I found it a little difficult to turn the rotors by hand, It seems like this would reduce fuel economy if their always dragging? I mean if im in a driveway with a slight incline and push the clutch in the car will roll, so maybe its not that bad.

    With the pads off the rotor turns much easier of course but just curious if its normal for pads to always have some contact with the rotor, If not what could I do to address it, this occurs on both front rotors.
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  11. fast97gt

    fast97gt Active Member

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    free spinning there is drag, rule of thumb it should rotate 5-6 times with a good turn. kinda like the prize wheel of price is right, give one good pull, hehe. did u lube the contact areas of all the slides, also guide pins and anti rattle shims and clips?
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  12. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    Yep lubed everything but when you say it should rotate 5-6 turns thats with the wheel on then right? with the wheel off and pads installed the rotor wont rotate more than 1 time if that even giving it a good turn. It would only do that if I removed the pads.
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  13. fast97gt

    fast97gt Active Member

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    yes with the tire and wheel on.
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  14. jayrw

    jayrw Member

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    I tried that today and both wheels only rotate maybe 1 full turn if I give it a good spin, so its definitely grabbing, is it worth rebuilding the calipers or should I just buy new ones? although I didnt see any rebuild kits for front calipers listed on autozone, pepboys or napa websites.
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