Push button activation of zex kit?

Motorhead6T5

New Member
Oct 21, 2004
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Marysville,CA
I'm putting together a zex n20 setup for my car, how do you guys go about running at the track/from a dead stop,with the WOT activation. Since you can't run n20 below 2-3k rpm. I was thinking of maybe using a shifter ball switch instead of the supplied arming switch. Will their be any problems in doing this? As far as the NMU opening the selinoids? As you can tell I'm trying to get out of buying a $200+ window switch. :)
 
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you know maby im just weird but i always thought that doubling the parking brake button as a N2O switch woulda been a really cool idea. i mean i dont think its really feasable, but just think how cool thats be just going down at tapping your parking brake. i dunno sry i just had to tell someone about that. haha so i am really no help
 
thats just a technicallity gosh your such a downer
its a perfectly good idea it just needs to be deactivated under 2500 rpms or something, i said it might not even be feasible, but it just seemed cool haha if i was to put N20 in my car i would want it there thats just what im saying. i doubt it would work because youd need to have it so that it didnt engage when you put the pb on but when you were running 3K + rpms when you can actually use nitrous it would be activated
 
You could easily swap out the e-brake for a nos activation button. You wouldn't be able to lock your parking brake anymore unless you modify that too. I've seen LOTS worse mods than this, so go for it if you like. With the e-brake locking in cold weather, I don't use it much anyway.
 
no i didnt mean swap out the parking brake just to take the little button that you press to release it, and give it a duel fuction, i just thought it would be cool to have it there, because it would be soo low key. like to have it look completly normal, and just press it when its down and have it totally flip people out. like ultimate sleeper. i dunno ok so i just thought it was kinda nightrider-ish. like having someone ask you where the nitrous button was, and being like "well we integrated it into the parking brake, when it is disengauged it serves as a activator, but when engauged it is no longer connected"
 
It would be a pain to hit the button,and shift at the same time that way. I had a n20 kit set up like that on a past car,and I couldn't get my hand on the shifter fast enough. If it worked as an arming switch then that would work.
 
You could always just use an rpm window switch, once you reach a preset rpm the nitrous can activate till you lift your foot off the pedal.

2000-3000rpm isnt really a bad range to activate in either, for drag racing you want that power right off launch. Granted, you need traction.

-Dan
 
cleveland said:
You could always just use an rpm window switch, once you reach a preset rpm the nitrous can activate till you lift your foot off the pedal.

2000-3000rpm isnt really a bad range to activate in either, for drag racing you want that power right off launch. Granted, you need traction.

-Dan
A window switch would be ideal,its just really expensive for the distributerless fords. I'm already gonna get the tuner kit on top of the n20 kit,so with a window switch its starting to get really expensive. Do you run yours with a WOT switch or a push button?
 
I use a WOT switch and a covered toggle for activation, my toggles are mounted in the rear cup holder.

nx_install_10.jpg


nx_install_11.jpg


-Dan
 
The last few times I hit the switch at the track is was just about 60 feet off the line or until I didnt sense anymore tire spin.

Once I get some drag radials out back and return to the strip I will be able to hit the switch right off the line. I should also be able to hold a higher rpm just prior to launch. I was held to only about 2100 rpms before the rear would start braking loose.

And yes, I made that switch panel to fit the rounded contours of the cup. Nothing is cut on the interior of the car except for the small removable plastic piece to allow the wiring harness/plug to pass through in the center console.

-Dan
 
cleveland said:
The last few times I hit the switch at the track is was just about 60 feet off the line or until I didnt sense anymore tire spin.

Once I get some drag radials out back and return to the strip I will be able to hit the switch right off the line. I should also be able to hold a higher rpm just prior to launch. I was held to only about 2100 rpms before the rear would start braking loose.

And yes, I made that switch panel to fit the rounded contours of the cup. Nothing is cut on the interior of the car except for the small removable plastic piece to allow the wiring harness/plug to pass through in the center console.

-Dan
Ok then a push button should work then if you are flipping the switch when already at WOT. Thanks:flag: