Maybe this will help, this is the rocker setup. TFS hi-ports, I think the P/R is 6.7 but I can re-check that, B-cam style cam
What we are doing:
1. Snug up all rocker arm nuts until the pushrod is not restricted but there is no super obvious wobbling around of the rocker arm
2. Bring cylinder 1 (driver side head nearest front of motor...water pump) until exhaust valve just begins to open by watching p/r and lifter...this should be the base cam circle on the intake valve. we make sure we're working on the intake valve (the back of the two) by looking into the intake port on number one, seeing the valve, and then using that rocker arm.
3. all but one pedestal as pictured has a .030" shim (our guess, there are two sizes shims come in, but I did not measure it, one has an extra shim that is twice as thick as these ones, which is why we think that one has a .030 and a .060 on it).
4. tighten the rocker arm nut until the pushrod begins to feel a little restriction on it. this is zero lash.
5. we are trying to torque to 24 ft.lbs, it should come between 1/4 and 1 rotation for a street motor. we were told that if it comes in any less, we have too long a pushrod. we were told that if it comes in any more than 1 turn, we need shims below the pedestal. we found literature that said each .030" shim would compensate for one half turn. we are measuring turns by putting the torque wrench in the 12 o clock position and rotating clockwise 360 degrees, not using the ratcheting motion.
What is happening:
we go around the first time. still no click from the torque wrench. it is set correctly and it works fine as tested on other hardware. we go around another 360 degrees. still have not reached torque. now we are worried because that would mean we need at least two .060" shims on top of the .030" one we have now.
so we keep going. three turns. four turns. by the third and the fourth turn, the rocker arm is actually moving in such a way that instead of reaching the torque spec, it is actually depressing the stem of the valve and opening the valve. these are double valve springs, they should offer a lot of resistance.
my theory is we do not have long enough pushrods and we need an adjustable pushrod to check, but it's a pure guess. does anyone have the old procedure with a feeler gauge on hand?
by the way, that one cylinder with a .060 and a .030 on it...we tried that one too just to see...it does the same thing...by four turns we have not reached the torque spec and the valve is just opening more and more. there is so much thread on the pedestal I do not understand what is supposed to stop the nut from turning, it just keeps threading down further. we had two other pushrods, one stock 5.0 one and one slightly shorter than the tfs pushrods we are using, there was no difference with either of them.