Put a turbo on a N/A 2.3?

[NakedRaygun]

Please explain.
Thanks

I was told they lose their efficiency after 15lbs.

 

[NjccBflo]

You know... what if this Dustinto is going to go all out and drop $135 on Pistons and $74 on rings straight from Ford....? Then he's "just" stuck with plumbing the oil line around the block and into the pan, no?

Of course, he'd have to get all the misc equipment as well (turbo, manifolds, sensors, etc.).

-Nick

 

[Mike SVOR]

I was told they lose their efficiency after 15lbs.

Don't think of psi, It's more related to hp levels.

I ran 24 psi of boost through one with the stock turbo and made 269 rwhp and 322 rw torque.




and to add to Nick's reply:

Yes you could definetly do that.
And to keep it even easier, you could just put an FMU on and run the stock fuel injection system.

 

[NakedRaygun]

Don't think of psi, It's more related to hp levels.

I ran 24 psi of boost through one with the stock turbo and made 269 rwhp and 322 rw torque.




and to add to Nick's reply:

Yes you could definetly do that.
And to keep it even easier, you could just put an FMU on and run the stock fuel injection system.

You just made my friends combo a little cheaper. How did the fuel system manage itself? I'm guessing you had a big VAM, 35#, and an LA3? Because thats what we have and were porbably going to follow your build.

How could we achieve the same thing? His combo as of now (not put together yet but we have the parts) is a HY35 (the smaller inlet one) stock mani, volvo FMIC, with some pistons and rods out of a merk. It's got an '87 head because thats the base block we are using.

 

[Mike SVOR]

You just made my friends combo a little cheaper. How did the fuel system manage itself? I'm guessing you had a big VAM, 35#, and an LA3? Because thats what we have and were porbably going to follow your build.

How could we achieve the same thing? His combo as of now (not put together yet but we have the parts) is a HY35 (the smaller inlet one) stock mani, volvo FMIC, with some pistons and rods out of a merk. It's got an '87 head because thats the base block we are using.

The static fuel pressure had to be turned up to 65 psi. Even then, It was leaning out past 5K. I have an FMU now, but it's still not right.

The best thing I can suggest is to start with an aftermarket fuel injection computer with wide band O2.
At LEAST the wide band O2 meter and a tweecer.
The stock curve is garbage.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

I did my whole swap myself (except for buying the parts and having the head ported and some block work) for a little under 3 grand.

 

[Putter-GLHT]

I know it probably doesn't help but my turbo swap into my Omni ran me right at 1000$ including brakes on all 4 corners and a reman turbo.

I did what you're talking about and put the turbo on a N/A engine at about 9.5:1 C/R and no intercooler. I ran 12psi on 92 gas never had a piston failure. This winter pulled it apart for a big dump in compression (put a 16cc dish instead of the flat tops in) and I had known it was detonating, but not how much. It was just enough to blow all the carbon off the pistons for a fairly decent pitted piston top. If you're going to do a turbo on an N/A engine, intercooling should be a must, and lower boost levels that are appropriate for your C/R. Turbo's are very nice to engines if you have no detonation.

It can be done, but I found its not worth it, as I had my car apart all winter redoing the bottom end getting ready for tons more boost/portwork etc. As they say, do it once and do it right.