Question: On flywheel bolts, do I use BLUE loc-tite or RED loc-tite?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Chythar, Jun 9, 2009.


  1. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    I've been told use RED loc-tite on the driveshaft bolts, but I have to heat the bolts up to remove them. Should I just use blue loc-tite on the flywheel bolts?

    Thanks.
     
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  2. icemetalstang

    icemetalstang New Member

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    loc tite

    When I changed my fox body to a 5 speed I used the red loctite and had no problems. You know someone will say it. Did you read the package. DUH

    It may help. I got a long screw driver put it in the flywheel teeth and used a large breaker bar to get the flywheel bolts off. A 400ft lb impact wrench would not break them lose.
     
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  3. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    What package to read? I know that red loc-tite is high-strength and blue is not. But the flywheel bolts may not need the stronger red loc-tite. The OEM bolts I removed did NOT have loc-tite on them, just that red rubber-like stuff. I've seen the same stuff on my ECT and CTS, used for a fluid-proof seal. No remnants of loc-tite at all.
     
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  4. Adam95GT

    Adam95GT New Member

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    i used red on mine.
     
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  5. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    Red on everything.

    Kurt
     
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  6. BlownFiveLiter

    BlownFiveLiter have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

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    I've never used anything on my flywheel bolts. Never had a leak, or lost a bolt in 12 years now!
     
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  7. Grn92LX

    Grn92LX Fidanza Man!
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    blue on flywheel and press plate bolts.
     
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  8. icemetalstang

    icemetalstang New Member

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    The package was a joke. I use red loctite
     
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  9. cbarr300

    cbarr300 Member

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    Use whatever makes you happy...they both do the job well

    Me personally I always use red loctite on my car as well as customers' cars. I have never had a problem breaking them loose with the trusty impact ;) .... it laughs at red loctite lol
     
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  10. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    In the end, I decided to use blue loctite. There is a flywheel-specific loctite available, it has the same properties as the blue loctite, including its melting point (300F). Only difference is that the green was designed to cure in a tightly-sealed area. Many crankshafts have holes for the flywheel that do not go all the way through. Blue loctite would not dry well in those cases. However, the 5.0 crankshaft hoes go all the way through so the blue should cure just fine.

    Thanks for the advice, everyone.
     
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  11. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    Loctite is designed to dry only in the absense of Oxygen. I watched the History Channel special on it.

    Kurt
     
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  12. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    I don't understand why anyone would want to chance it with anything else. I don't know about you, but I don't like to drop my tranny every week. I use red on everything, always have. And you had to put heat on the d/s bolts? I just use the 2 wrench trick for leverage and it works everytime. But it does take some elbow grease to get those off, and that's a good thing!

    Flywheel bolts = red loctite.

    But, blue loctite is still loctite so you'll be fine.
     
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  13. cbarr300

    cbarr300 Member

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    That is correct, Loctite is an anaerobic sealer, meaning it doesn't need oxygen to harden. The green loctite is meant to penetrate screws/bolts that are already in place

    btw, I mainly use red loctite because I have a huge bottle of it that needs to be used lol
     
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  14. S351Saleen77

    S351Saleen77 Member

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    The OEM bolts had the rubber seal because the holes go all the way through to be exposed to the oil pan and all the oil. On the old (Like 60's&70's) cranks the holes didn't go all the way through so they recommend Loctite. On the new 5.0 cranks the manual says to use a thread sealer Not Loctite so it won't leak oil through the holes.
    I just did an Escort and it was the same thing, the red rubber stuff stock and it said to use a thread sealer with Teflon on the bolts in a manual.
     
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  15. madams74

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    I have NEVER had to use heat to remove red loctite. I dont know why they say this on the info for the red stuff.
     
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  16. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    Yeah, no heat. It's funny how no matter how long loctite's been on there, it'll still smell the same way when you break it lose, it's got that distinctive smell to it.
     
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  17. final5-0

    final5-0 Mustang Master

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    I can tell you this about crankshaft/flywheel bolts :)

    Back in the 60's and 70's we did not use Loctite on ANYTHING :eek:
    and
    We never had anything fall off :rlaugh:

    I know the bolts these days go all the way through and oil can
    seep past the threads :(

    I see the concern of more importance to be to seal the threads
    as opposed to keeping the bolt secure ;)

    I could say the same about drive shaft bolts

    We never used Loctite on em and none of em came loose :shrug:

    I mean ... you had fine threads and lock washers :)

    Most likely ... Ford started the Loctite application to save the
    cost of 4 lock washers :Word:

    Grady
     
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  18. 95Vert383AOD

    95Vert383AOD Active Member

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    Locktite??? I don't use that stuff at all....Matter of fact i use antiseize on driveshaft bolts for YEARS. Maybe i should change the way i do things??? Then again like Grady said i think my driveshaft bolts are 12 point and have lock washers.
     
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  19. HISSIN50

    HISSIN50 "How long does it take to get help in here?
    SN Certified Technician

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    The DS bolts come from Ford with threadlock instead of washers.

    I like Grady's reasoning. Chemical washers are cheaper than metal ones.
     
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  20. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    I have had driveshaft washers back out on me before.

    Kurt
     
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