Question: On flywheel bolts, do I use BLUE loc-tite or RED loc-tite?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Chythar, Jun 8, 2009.

  1. I blue loc-tite everything. I put it on the end very end of the bolt and then put anti-seize on the back 2/3 of the bolt. I have always done this and I have never had an issue.
     
  2. I did not use loc-tite on my flywheel bolts. Those are a 10mm head...that's a small bolt. IF you take that back apart after using loc-tite, you better put some light heat on them. Those are only supposed to be torqued to 12-24ft lbs. I torqued mine at 18ft lbs. NO loc-tite and my car didn't come apart so...
     
  3. I believe you are referring to the pressure plate bolts. And I've always used loctite on those, clutch explosions are nasty! BTW, even after RED loctite was utilized on those bolts, they still come out with ease because they're too small to really "torque" down, so you're only fighting the loctite, not torque AND loctite. :nice:
     
  4. I agree. The pressure plate bolts only need ~20ftlbs of TQ, but the flywheel bolts need ~80ftlbs if memory serves me correct. I know I always have to find a screw driver to shove in one of the flywheel outer holes to stop the engine from rotating when I torque those bolts down. Thread sealer is a must on flywheel bolts.
     
  5. I discovered the same thing when installing my flywheel. A screwdriver through an non-threaded hole in the flywheel, through the large starter hole in the backplate actually holds really well. Enough to get to torque specs and no visible damage to the backplate either.
     
  6. A flywheel holder is a nice tool to have. They can be had cheap. The only downside is that if you like to hold a torque wrench with two hands (as I do - one on the head to keep it square and one on the handle), you need a flexible foot or a 3rd hand to hold the flywheel holder. :)
     
  7. I have a flywheel holder in my tool box, it also dubs as a heavy duty Craftsman phillips screwdriver! sorry, couldn't resist...