Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by RacEoHolic330, Nov 14, 2011.
What will the high/low boost do? Will it have 2 different tunes? I like the USB port, looks great.
Did you ever pick a set of rear tires I might've missed it and I'm to damn lazy to search through 60 pages
Could be worse. At least its' not white
You got it, Grover. The switches are for two separate stage activations on the AMS-500 boost controller. The PMS also allows for multiple data sets, so I will use one set for a more mild tune and the other set for a balls-to-the-wall 100 octane tune. The USB port will be very handy to plug in the laptop. I just need to get a serial-USB adapter for the handset.
@MikeH686, yes I did. 275/35/18 BFG G-force drag radials.
Let me know how they turn out for you I know you were debating on what to get at one point
Wait a minute. You get all nice and pretty and now you want to discriminate against those of us with white foxes?.............O.K., yeah, I kinda hate the color too. Thankfully mine has the red interior trapped by the cage, giving me something to hate more than the exterior color.
Cant wait to hear how well the PMS works out. I may sell the AEM and try that direction.
Yeah, Race robs banks for a living so he has the time and the money.
This forum was originally founded by a group of guys who got together on-line, to create his alibis.
In all serious @rdharper02, I love white foxes. I think white is the best engine bay color when clean.
@Noobz347 , you were supposed to go with me on my last heist. Way to bail. Now I have no money to pay for the rest of my wheels, and it's all your fault.
What the hell were you thinking? Black Mustang...you must be crazy!
Hmm, I wonder if that can be done with a MSPNP.
Hey, did you have to cut apart any of your dash to get the gauges/gauge plate sit flush on the dash mounts? Im running into a clearance issue on my setup and if you have any pictures of what you had to do that would help me out tremendously.
I didn't get to the point where I'm ready to mount the cluster to the dash. The MC Machine instructions do say that trimming is necessary though.
They mention it on their site, but they refer to a picture in the gallery that doesn't exist. I don't want to go hacking away without some idea of how much to cut.
So the first attempt at starting the engine was made today. I wouldn't call it successful, but it wasn't a failure. Click for video.
It's running pig rich. I pulled the #5 plug and it was completely black, tip and all. I pulled fuel during cranking on the PMS, but I need to mess around with the idle settings because it won't hold an idle long enough for me to even check the timing and fuel pressure. There is also a lot of smoke coming out of the breather. You can see it in the video. I'm basically using the tune from my supercharged setup, but now I have 95lb/hr injectors compared to 42 lb/hr with the old setup, so I need to account for that better.
I'm happy it does fire up though, as rough as it may be. Oil pressure is good and nothing seized up or exploded. It's a start. Any input is appreciated. I'll check codes and mess with it some more another day. It's time for some football soon!
You're almost there. The whole thing is gorgeous.
I want to know which RonFrancis kit you used. I'm looking for my replacement.
Thanks Mike. It is pretty. I just need to get it to run. The oil has fuel in it, which is just lovely.
The chassis kit is his Access 24/7 kit. Comes with factory connectors for the turn signal, high beam, and alternator connections. You tell them all the circuits you want and they take it from there.
Alot of the times these things won't idle because of the fuel enrichment based on the coolant temp tables. This is one table that I almost always see overlooked. Try pulling fuel out of it at the colder coolant temps like when you have a cold start. Also, are you using an injector driver for the 96 lb ers?
That's a good point. I didn't think about the coolant tables. I did realize I had way too much fuel in the idle settings. I remember having idle issues with the blower setup years ago and needed to add fuel to compensate. It's been a while since I played with the PMS. Gotta re-learn everything! I'm going to mess with the tables and lower my fuel pressure and then change the plugs and the oil. Gapping the 3923's at .030.
And yes, I have a low imp driver for the injectors.
Definitely can not be done with the PnP, you would have to build a custom board to have that stuff.
So I was re-checking all the tables in the PMS. For some reason I had +18 in the water temp table at -10 degrees. I remember troubleshooting a cold running issue with my old setup and that may be how I was trying to solve it. That +18 was adding a ton of fuel with the engine cold. Explains why everything was flooding out.
The other problem I noticed is that the PMS is displaying -30 degrees for the air temp sensor. I pulled off the plug and installed another new (auto parts store) sensor. Still read -30 degrees. I shot it with the heat gun and it still didn't changed. I held the heat gun to the water temp sensor and it went from 54 degrees to 60 degrees in seconds. I obviously have some issues I have to figure out. Not sure why it doesn't work with two brand new sensors. That makes me a bit concerned. Time to do some EEC troubleshooting.