Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

The fragola fittings are awesome. Easier to put together than the summit brand ones and worth the extra money IMO. Also, for some strange reason if i take summit fittings apart and try to tighten them twice sometimes they break right at the end of tightening them down.
 
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I'm still waiting on the Holley stuff to show up. I did get some more wiring done on the car that I have been putting off for a while. The interior lights are all wired up. The TMI headliner is in along with the SN95 dome light. I also installed a raptor shift light inside the driver side air duct, behind the vent. You'll never know it's there until the shift light goes off. And finally, I installed the AMS 500 boost controller in the glove box. I'm just waiting on a 8 pin connector so I can finish wiring it up. I wish that unit just came with a plug connection instead of individual terminals on the outside. Oh well. Pictures to follow soon.
 
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Just ordered my holley system as well. I've read through your thread a few times but I don't recall if you've incorporated knock sensors?
I'll be interested to see how well it works in your boosted application. I know a lot of FI LS guys have had great success with it.
 
I have considered getting the knock sensor and just mounting it and wiring it up. Apparently the Dart block has a provision for one near the starter. I know there is some 'tuning' involved with them to eliminate false readings. I might as well wire it up now so I don't need to do it later. The GM sensor is about $40, and has been proven to work well with the Holley. I think it will be beneficial to have because I do plan on eventually running both 93 octane and 100 octane in the car on two separate maps.
 
I have considered getting the knock sensor and just mounting it and wiring it up. Apparently the Dart block has a provision for one near the starter. I know there is some 'tuning' involved with them to eliminate false readings. I might as well wire it up now so I don't need to do it later. The GM sensor is about $40, and has been proven to work well with the Holley. I think it will be beneficial to have because I do plan on eventually running both 93 octane and 100 octane in the car on two separate maps.
I've just done a lot of reading on the system so I'll have an idea when I fire mine up but supposedly if you can find a way to utilize 1 or in my case 2 knock sensors, the self-learn function is really impressive. I've not seen much use on ford based stuff though outside of a turbo 9.5 motor on YB
 
Danny on the Holley forums has the GM sensors on his Bronco and says they work very well. He did have to force his engine to ping to make sure it was set up correctly. I'll have to see if the Dart block can accommodate a sensor on the driver side as well.
 
If that's the guy with the "May god bless you" or something along those lines as a sig then I've pretty much read everything he's posted on the topic. Guy seems to really know his stuff
 
I think he actually works for holley as an online tech. I thought about a knock sensor on my car but i dont really like the idea of making the car detonate on purpose to calibrate it.
 
I'm not a fan of it either. I do know that low RPM, high load is the 'safest' point to detonate at. Climbing a steep hill is a good way to do it. Maybe there are other options to confirm the sensors are calibrated and working properly. I haven't researched it much.
 
I managed to install the TMI headliner and visors. They are very nice quality. The visors are not lighted, but I didn't feel that was necessary. Definitely not the easiest install. Everything had to line up perfect for the mounting holes in the headliner backing board to be in the right spots. After a while, I got everything alinged where it needed to be. That is an SN95 dome light. Works great with the additional map lights on the sides.
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I also finished wiring and installing the boost controller. Fits perfectly mounted in the glove box. I used a GM throttle body connector to make it easy to disconnect if necessary. Beats fooling with the individual pins on the controller.
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And here's the raptor shift light hidden behind the vent. This thing lights up bright. The second picture is only 3 of the 6 LED's that come on when the igition turned on. I'll have no problem seeing it in the daylight.
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How long did it take you to get it wired up tanner? I've done a good amount of research about the wiring. Any unexpected hiccups when you did yours?
Being an LS motor, the harness wasn't the right length in a few places. Moved some sheathing and retaped some things but it was real simple stuff. It's labeled extremely well. All relays and fuses are wired in in all the right spots and it was essentially snapping it all together, main power harness to the battery (it's quite long for rear mount batteries) and a switched 12 and ground source. Extremely impressed with it overall.
If you're just yanking your old harness and plugging this one in, you could be done and cranking in an hour
 
Good stuff. I have a feeling I may need to unpin the injector harness to get it through the firewall. The hole is only about an inch and a half in diameter. I made that hole with the other harness in mind and was able to pull the wires through one at a time.