I am getting ready to start on my 65 mustang. I am trying to find a company that makes a 4 link rear suspension for vintage stangs. Any info would help. The car will be a street strip stang.......mostly just cruising on the street with the occasional race. Also anything to help the car hook would be nice. Previosly we've had problems with wheel hop due to the leaf springs. Any information would be helpful.
rear 4-link for 65 stang
- Thread starter indy9550
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RaSMG
Founding Member
the tcp is a 'coilover' rear suspension, not a traditional '4-link' .. the coilover is more similar to independent suspension used in roadracing and around corners traditionally using a horizontal 'watts link' or panhard bar for cornering. whereas the '4-link' is more traditionally used in hotrods, tubbed cars, and drag racing sometimes using a vertical 'ladder bar' for straight line traction. the similar thing is that both setups are fully adjustable to work well for different kinds of use. not sure about the global west rear.
Here is good "How To" on just that subject.
Go to :
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
click on "How To" on the menu on the left, then click on "Install a subframe and suspension"
In the series of pics and steps they install a new rear subframe and 4 link in a 65 Mustang.
Pretty good article.
Later,
David Cole
Go to :
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
click on "How To" on the menu on the left, then click on "Install a subframe and suspension"
In the series of pics and steps they install a new rear subframe and 4 link in a 65 Mustang.
Pretty good article.
Later,
David Cole
OK...first of all....if you dont know if your engine is going to put out 500 or 800hp, you may want to solve that problem first. You said your car is mainly used on the street with an occasional race...the 4 link setup maybe not be what you want for that. How fast do you want your car to go? Rather than spit out HP numbers, what do you want it to run in the 1/4? Or is this going to be a street-racing machine----tsk tsk. 500hp with the right setup will run a mid 10 second 1/4 which will wax almost any car you come in contact with...especially street driven...unless you go to an NMRA, NHRA, IHRA, FFW type event. 800hp....in a classic mustang...i hope you intend to weld in subframes, a cross brace, chassis support, 6 point cage, etc so your mustang doesnt fold in half!
Caltracs and leafs are good enough to put a car into the 9second 1/4 mile zone. Thats a lot of power, just remember, its not about how much power you have, its how well you and your car handle it and how its used!
Caltracs and leafs are good enough to put a car into the 9second 1/4 mile zone. Thats a lot of power, just remember, its not about how much power you have, its how well you and your car handle it and how its used!
Okay...the engine will probably be similar to an engine me and a friend built a couple of years ago. It was a windsor based stroker that made almost 540 at the flywheel. On this engine we had a 150 shot of nitrous. On the engine im starting to build for my 65, i plan to run a bigger shot. The engine isnt that big of a deal to me... i can build pretty much whatever i need. I had planned on getting the car to at least run a mid to low 10. Oh and yes i had planned on subframe connectors and actually a 10 point cage. And yes i know i have to beef up the chassis considerably. This is why i inquired on rear suspension. With this said, is a fourlink setup the least bit streetable? I dont plan on having huge slicks on the car. Preferably drag radials or maybe et streets. The thing is i believe i will have to narrow the rearend and at least minitub the car to fit anything i am interested in fitting. This is the first time i have gone to modify a vintage stang...im used to late models with a factory four link that is VERY different from the primative leaf springs. I have a friend who has a blown 68 Camaro (has that damn bowtie disease). His car does not hook at all. Granted he does have the good ole slapper bars. I am basically just wondering how to make this car hook!!
302 coupe
Founding Member
you have a couple of viable options:
1) fiberglass monoleafs and cal-tracs(or similar device), however, you'd still be limited with tire size, could mini-tub it though and gain some room
2) keep the leaf springs, add spring sliders, throw in some ladder bars and minitubs
3) ditch the leaf springs, go with ladder bar/coil over, and minitubs or full tubs
4) go four link/coil over/full tub
For a 10 second car that could be driven to shows and cruise-ins, I would go with #3, that way the chassis will be as streetable as the motor, plus it be strong and hook well. Ladder bar setups are fairly easy to install and setup, plus they won't bind when going over bumps like a 4 link will. On the Chris Alston site, www.cachassisworks.com, there should be a how-to link where they put ladder bars on a 67 chevelle, maybe it will answer some questions for you.
1) fiberglass monoleafs and cal-tracs(or similar device), however, you'd still be limited with tire size, could mini-tub it though and gain some room
2) keep the leaf springs, add spring sliders, throw in some ladder bars and minitubs
3) ditch the leaf springs, go with ladder bar/coil over, and minitubs or full tubs
4) go four link/coil over/full tub
For a 10 second car that could be driven to shows and cruise-ins, I would go with #3, that way the chassis will be as streetable as the motor, plus it be strong and hook well. Ladder bar setups are fairly easy to install and setup, plus they won't bind when going over bumps like a 4 link will. On the Chris Alston site, www.cachassisworks.com, there should be a how-to link where they put ladder bars on a 67 chevelle, maybe it will answer some questions for you.
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