I got a set of nice upper and lower control arms I want to put on my GT , never did it before anyone so how do I go about it ? Also would I be better off welding the seams on my torque boxes or buying one of the torque box kits of LRS ?
Rear Control Arm Install
- Thread starter TwoToneHatch
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Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Are your new arms adjustable or fixed length?
Put the car on jackstands. Remove wheels, support rear axle, disconnect shocks at the axle end, lower rear axle, remove springs, replace control arms one at a time. Then put it all back together. It's a pretty simple operation without any real pitfalls.
UPR recommends adding upper & lower torque box reinforcements. They can be bolted in initially, but we like to see them welded in.
Put the car on jackstands. Remove wheels, support rear axle, disconnect shocks at the axle end, lower rear axle, remove springs, replace control arms one at a time. Then put it all back together. It's a pretty simple operation without any real pitfalls.
UPR recommends adding upper & lower torque box reinforcements. They can be bolted in initially, but we like to see them welded in.
No.11
10 Year Member
Also you'll probably need to install new bushings on the differential side for the uppers. This tool will save you having to rip your hair out.
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Tool
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Tool
Leave the nuts for the bushing thru bolts finger tight until you have everything in place. You may have to put the floor jack under the differential center section to move the jackstands. Then while the car is still on jackstands placed under the rear axle & front A arms, tighten all the bushing thru bolts to the recommended torque. This eliminates the the preload twist that occurs when the bolts are tightened with with control arms pointed down. The dangle position (rear axle hangs down) isn't the normal position for the rear axle. You want any preload present to try to return the axle to the normal street driving position for your car. Doing it the other way puts a twist in the bushings and preloads them the wrong way.
A ratcheting tie strap is worth its weight in gold for this type of thing. Wrap it around various parts of the suspension to help you line up the control arm holes during reassembly.
Jason 302
10 Year Member
A good long, strong punch helps also to help line up the bushings in the holes. I just replaced all of my control arms a few days ago. Just use patience and think things through and you can do it by yourself. A good buddy is always welcome though lol
Bryan83taco
Active Member
+1
I did mine alone but a good punch helped a lot. Another hand would have definitly helped.
Actually, I learned that from someone on here and I have been using it like crazy sice then. You would not believe how handy it is for lining up a loose engine, holding the exhaust in place, supporting the trans, etc, etc. I've used my current one so much it hardly ratchets anymore haha.
Thanks everyone , and the ratchet straps are a good idea I have have a couple sitting in the shed I can use .
haha ive always used a big ass screw driver to line them up but damn i wish i would have thought of that one.
ID89GT
10 Year Member
Probably the biggest key is don't try to change the control arms with the springs in place, it's a PITA. And you'll probably have to drop the cat-back to get good access to the forward bolts on the LCA's. If you're lucky, the bolts won't be seized to the bushing sleeves. If you're not so lucky, you'll have to be creative with heat, impact wrenches and/or saws to get them out.
i found the best way is to put the jack under the control arm pull the bolts out and let the arm down with the jack and the spring just drops
While we're talking about bolts, be careful not to wreck the threads when pulling them out. Those are specialty bolts, not easy to replace.
That may be an easy way to get the spring out, but it's a PITA to get it back in that way. The easiest way is to connect all the control arms but leave the shocks and swaybar disconnected. Support the diff, then raise one end of the axle. The other drops down and you plop the spring in.
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