REAR END PARTS LIST (what im going to order)

KJ Hoppus

New Member
Mar 18, 2003
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Elk Grove CA
heres my list of parts for my rear end. if anyone can think of something else i need let me know.

Auburn Pro Differential 8.8 Ford 31-Tooth
Price $359.95

Moser C-clip Axles w/ Studs (pair) ''94-98 31 Spline, Stock Length
Price $235.95

MAC Performance 8.8" GIRDLE
Price $124.95

2 Ford ABS Ring
Price $17.95 each

2qts Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube 80W-90
Price $7.18 each

Ford Racing Friction Modifier
Price $4.95

RING & PINION INSTALL KIT
Price: $110.00
KIT INCLUDES PINION & CARRIER SHIMS, CRUSH SLEEVE, PINION SEAL, PINION NUT, RING GEAR BOLTS AND COVER GASKET, PINION GEAR AND CARRIER BEARINGS, AXLE SHAFT BEARINGS AND AXLE SHAFT SEALS.



do i need anything else??????
 
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k first off you dont need c-clips unless your going w/ a spool. so get rid of those.

also wont need the ABS rings so get rid of that as well.


you want to get the following.

moser 31 spline axles
eaton LSD
3.73's or 4.10's (i would go w/ the 4.10's)
FRPP aluminum driveshaft

the eaton's are great diff's quiet and reliable. get some nitto 555R's and some suspension work LCA's subframe connectors etc. and you can pull some pretty low 60's w/ te above setup....
 
NightLife said:
k first off you dont need c-clips unless your going w/ a spool. so get rid of those.

also wont need the ABS rings so get rid of that as well.


you want to get the following.

moser 31 spline axles
eaton LSD
3.73's or 4.10's (i would go w/ the 4.10's)
FRPP aluminum driveshaft

the eaton's are great diff's quiet and reliable. get some nitto 555R's and some suspension work LCA's subframe connectors etc. and you can pull some pretty low 60's w/ te above setup....



if i get axles without the c clips then i will need cclip emims and my abs wont work, so i want c clip axles.

if i get c clip axles i want to get new abs rings because i dont want to damage the other ones taking them off.

i already have 4.10s (2nd post)

i already have bfg drags, upr and lowr control arms, and subframes. (in my sig)

i might get the alm. drivshaft later down the road, but not now.


is the auburn pro really a bad diff? i know the lower end auburn isnt that good, but i though the auburn pro was a good diff.
 
i know about 5 people who have killed their auburns on the first time out to the track. they are terrible diffs for drag racing, they are made for curvy track racing.

if you have a tight checkbook then i would look into a 31 spline trac-lok differential they are only 185 dollars from stangstore. if you have the money go with the eaton. i dont have the money, so i have the trac-lok. although the price may be misleading lots of people are having good luck with the trac-lok.

the axles you are getting are the correct ones. i have the same ones sitting in my room right now.
 
just some guy said:
i know about 5 people who have killed their auburns on the first time out to the track. they are terrible diffs for drag racing, they are made for curvy track racing.

if you have a tight checkbook then i would look into a 31 spline trac-lok differential they are only 185 dollars from stangstore. if you have the money go with the eaton. i dont have the money, so i have the trac-lok. although the price may be misleading lots of people are having good luck with the trac-lok.

the axles you are getting are the correct ones. i have the same ones sitting in my room right now.


maybe ill go with the ford trac-lok i could buy an alm. driveshaft with the money i save.