Rear End Talk

@2000xp8
True on the higher rpm, then it's alot higher valvetrain cost correct? I need more info on this subject, for sure. Man I would love to be able to hear 8k revs! I definitely don't want a solid roller cam that I have to adjust the valves after every run. Is it even possible on a Hydr. Roller...

Well the 1000HP # is because I would love to race it later on down the road. I have no objections to getting used to the lower power numbers in this car first. Obviously that's what one would do. I'm just weighing options and doing my research. I would love to be in @84Ttop's shoes one day.

I'd like to stay 275's if possible. That's what I have now, but the BS on my wheels are so horrible they rubbed BAD. Recently I got an Eastwood fender roller, rolled the lip, and pulled the fenders out. Only one side barely rubs every now and again since I need to finish pulling. My car is lower than stock due to MM Adj. LCA's. How much did the PHB help? It must help a good bit, to be labeled the part Ford forgot ha-ha.

So far I've got the short block. I'm going to get a custom Hydr. Roller Cam (from Woody),a pair of 11R's, & either a Super Vic Intake/FAST 2 EFI. I figured when I talk to Jim about a cam, he knows this thing will need to be street-able. The cam and compression ratio will be my deciding factors whether it will be street-able or not, correct?

I appreciate you sharing knowledge and helping a fellow mustang/racing enthusiast. I agree one minute you're up and then the next you're down. I don't take anything on this forum as an insult, I have pretty thick skin :D.

@srtthis Thanks for the offer! :nice:
I just wanted to let you know that I've been told that you can't run a shaft mounted rocker system on the 11r heads. If you plan on having a shaft rr and turning high rpm you should look into getting some TFS high port heads. The 11r's would be great for a hyd roller cam engine that turns around 7k with standard stud mount rr's. Still capable of 650 n/a hp and 1000 with forced induction. At a real high rpm you'll start losing valvetrain stability with a stud mount system. You will definetly need a good link bar lifter(I like Morel) and RR's(I like comp cams ultra golds) with the proper springs,locks,retainers,cam,and pushrods. If you truly want to spin above 7k it is almost mandatory to go to the shaft mounts and a different head. Look at flow tech inductions website. Email Ed Curtis. He will put together a great package for you. It will be expensive though if you haven't checked prices. With heads/cam/valvetrain you're looking at least a 4-5k(ballpark) investment. In comparison a 11r/hyd roller/valvetrain is at least 1500$ cheaper. Which ultimately could go towards other areas to get to your performance goals.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


@84Ttop @srtthis Awesome! How does one go about finding a good tuner? I think I've only heard of one reputable shop in GA and I can't remember the name right now.

@A5literMan Thanks, I haven't heard that. You definitely have a point. I think the $1500 could be better spent else where, at least for now. I will definitely check out Flow Tech. Will my pistons made for the TW heads work with high ports?
 
Last edited:
If you have tf valve relief Pistons they'll be fine. If you talk to Mr Curtis at fti he can set you up with anything you'll need. Talk to woody also. You really should decide on which direction you want to go. N/A? Blower? Turbo? What kind of Pistons did you go with in that shortblock? Dished? Flattops? You will need to decide on the chamber size for compression ratio. A solid roller? Hyd roller? What trans? What rear gear ratio? All of these things need to be decided/discussed before you start buying more parts so you can have a well balanced combo that will fit your wants/needs.
 
If you have tf valve relief Pistons they'll be fine. If you talk to Mr Curtis at fti he can set you up with anything you'll need. Talk to woody also. You really should decide on which direction you want to go. N/A? Blower? Turbo? What kind of Pistons did you go with in that shortblock? Dished? Flattops? You will need to decide on the chamber size for compression ratio. A solid roller? Hyd roller? What trans? What rear gear ratio? All of these things need to be decided/discussed before you start buying more parts so you can have a well balanced combo that will fit your wants/needs.
Awesome, yea it will be blower setup. -32cc dished pistons. 66cc combustion chamber for a comp. ratio of 9.2-1. Hyd roller. Haven't specifically decided on a brand, but pretty sure I want a built auto. 3.55 rear end gear ratio.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
@A5literMan Alright I'll check Holley out, thanks. I was thinking if for some reason I wanted to go N/A, I could just use the 56cc heads instead. To bump the comp ratio up a bit.
You definetly can. Those are what I have. The 205 11r's with a 56cc chamber. They are a little big for my present 302 but should be perfect for my dart build. I initially was thinking a big inch nitrous build but I'm leaning towards forced induction. A little extra compression isn't a deal breaker in a forced induction build. The motor will be more responsive and make more power at lower boost levels. Obviously fuel type(octane ratings etc) makes a difference. I have easy access to e85 so I'm not worried about it.
 
Ah I wish I had access to it. We have 93 then 100+ octane gasses, but no E85.
Not a deal breaker. You can run multiple tunes with an aftermarket ecu(Holley,fast,etc) and swap back and forth. One for track and one for the street. Also going from a 66 to 56cc head isn't going to change the compression so much that you can't live on 93.
 
Damn, really? Idk why that's so mind baffling to me, guess I've been carbureted for too long. I wasn't so much worried about the smaller cc making it impossible to run premium gas. I just figured the add compression would be worth it. I looked at the Holley stuff on their website. I'm going to search the forums for more info. Seems like the Holley and the FAST system cost about the same.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
id suggest bigstuff 3 or the new holley dominator. few people run fast but its not really all that common.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Damn, really? Idk why that's so mind baffling to me, guess I've been carbureted for too long. I wasn't so much worried about the smaller cc making it impossible to run premium gas. I just figured the add compression would be worth it. I looked at the Holley stuff on their website. I'm going to search the forums for more info. Seems like the Holley and the FAST system cost about the same.
You could save some $$ and stay carbed.? Efi is better in many ways but...a good blow through carb and proper setup would save a lot of $$. Fwiw
 
id suggest bigstuff 3 or the new holley dominator. few people run fast but its not really all that common.
Alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll check it out.

You could save some $$ and stay carbed.? Efi is better in many ways but...a good blow through carb and proper setup would save a lot of $$. Fwiw
Yea, I've thought about that. Hell that would save me around $2k, I'd imagine. Is there any sense in saying that it would be harder to find a tuner for carbs than EFI, or should a tuner be able to do both?
 
Alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll check it out.


Yea, I've thought about that. Hell that would save me around $2k, I'd imagine. Is there any sense in saying that it would be harder to find a tuner for carbs than EFI, or should a tuner be able to do both?
I'm not sure on the tuner. The guys I know that are running forced induction with carbs are DIY guys. What little I know it's basically the same in that they mostly read the plugs and I know one guy runs a air fuel gauge. How he's doing it I don't know. I just saw it in his car lol. It is a lot easier to really monitor everything with a EFI/ecu. I Have no personal expierience with blow through carbs. Most of the racers that I personally know are carb/nitrous combos. An efi/ecu setup would cost at least a few thousand more. By the time you add high end injectors/fuel rails/ecu etc the costs really add up. If you already have a carb setup I'd build that motor up and stay carbureted. In fact most N/A combos make more power with a carb. Just saying
 
I'm not sure on the tuner. The guys I know that are running forced induction with carbs are DIY guys. What little I know it's basically the same in that they mostly read the plugs and I know one guy runs a air fuel gauge. How he's doing it I don't know. I just saw it in his car lol. It is a lot easier to really monitor everything with a EFI/ecu. I Have no personal expierience with blow through carbs. Most of the racers that I personally know are carb/nitrous combos. An efi/ecu setup would cost at least a few thousand more. By the time you add high end injectors/fuel rails/ecu etc the costs really add up. If you already have a carb setup I'd build that motor up and stay carbureted. In fact most N/A combos make more power with a carb. Just saying
Ok yea, I can read plugs and a wideband for the most part. Idk anything about what size injectors, what a good brand fuel rail is, etc. It's all new to me. My current 302 is carbed but none of it will be useful on the Dart motor.
 
Ok yea, I can read plugs and a wideband for the most part. Idk anything about what size injectors, what a good brand fuel rail is, etc. It's all new to me. My current 302 is carbed but none of it will be useful on the Dart motor.
For a fuel system I'd look at Glenn's Performance. For an injector size it depends on your final configuration/power potential but at least 60# for n/a and probably double that with a good blower. I know your actuall intake/carb etc won't swap over but the linkage is all there. You just need to upgrade the intake carb. I would think a super Vic intake and a good carb. There are guys that specialize in selling new carbs fitted to your combo-which has been to long ago for me to remember names lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user