Any kits out there that do not require trimming the rear plastics?
Trying to avoid cutting them like this
Trying to avoid cutting them like this
Fox Rear Shock Tower Brace
- Thread starter Mustang5L5
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I installed this one on my '89 SSC. It only requires the cutting of the access caps that can always be replaced later. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-RSTBRC/79-04-Ford-Mustang-Black-Rear-Shock-Tower-Brace
Awesome. Looks like that's what I want. How does it install? Existing holes or do I need to drill?
No offense, but there is no load path through those shock towers that a 2-point brace between the towers can do anything about, unless the car takes a hard smack from the side and you want to project the damage to the other side of the car 
I was thinking about that, I was also looking to do that and as I looked over my car I couldn't see a benefit, other than looking kinda cool an all.
You know, that's what I've been researching before ordering. Found plenty of posts saying it does nothing, and some saying it does make a difference.
I'll hold off pending further study
I'll hold off pending further study
I grew up around a body shop although it's been a looong time, but I am familiar with unibodied vehicles, the structure at the shock mounting area is not "load bearing" and the area includes the inner wheel house, frame rails and outer skin tying into roof/bracing and other sub structures, like the previous poster said no benefits other than transferring a side crash to the opposite side which in my opinion would only cause more damage through the brace tying both sides together
that's just an observation on my part an should not be seen as an admission of guilt, or extreme intelligence.
that's just an observation on my part an should not be seen as an admission of guilt, or extreme intelligence.
Yeah you'll need to drill. It comes with two brackets that you bolt to the wheel well (one on each side). Pretty simple.. Then you bolt the brace to them. As for the question to whether these do anything or not?Awesome. Looks like that's what I want. How does it install? Existing holes or do I need to drill?
I Da Know? I did it because I thought it looked good in my car. LOL
I might use one if I needed a sturdy brace to mount something else to, say.... battery holder, nitrous bottles, child seat complete with steering wheel, gas and brake pedal.
Might be a good place to,help strap down the kegorator that you place where the spare tire used to be?
When converting to coilovers in place of the separate shock and spring set up. I can see there being force transmitted to this area that was not originally intended to receive the amount of stress it now would be receiving.
I think in the case of coilovers mounted in the stock shock location, a strut bar would be beneficial to help share the load. As well as add a bit of stiffness to a twisting fox frame that dosn't have a cage. But this is just an opinion.
On a different car I owned (Rx7), adding a rear strut bar completely removed my wheel hop issue on launches. (Street tires and stiff coilovers)
I think in the case of coilovers mounted in the stock shock location, a strut bar would be beneficial to help share the load. As well as add a bit of stiffness to a twisting fox frame that dosn't have a cage. But this is just an opinion.
On a different car I owned (Rx7), adding a rear strut bar completely removed my wheel hop issue on launches. (Street tires and stiff coilovers)
Yes, coilovers will add addiitonal stress...in a vertical plane that a simple horizontal bar can't do anything about
If each corner of the bar were triangulated to the opposite roof area, that would be an improvement. Better yet would be simple "L" type bracing that ties the shock tower into the surrounding floor.
Fast Ronald
Member
Ok.as designed.............the rear shock brace using the shock bolts is no improvement as it will allow it to "walk" as the car flexes. I will begin to modify one to include actual bolts to fasten it in place in a more secure fashion. I intend to use from two to four 3/8" grade eight bolts on a modified brace. I will either retain or eliminate the shock bolt portion. I had been building this type of brace for the MN - 12 ( 1989 - 1997 Thunderbirds and Cougars ) for over a decade.
Old thread.
I ended up installing one as pictured above, BUT, I did it as a point to mount a tether for a child seat. It allowed me to loop the tether over the seat back and hook to a loop I installed on the bar. I used it a handful of times to take the kiddo's for a ride.
Now that the kids are old enough to not need that, I plan on taking it back out. it doesn't mount to the shock bolts, but bolts to the sheet metal instead. I'll have to remove it, and weld up the holes and refinish.
I noticed ZERO difference in rigidity, or handling from the rear bar. All it does it get in the way of thinks when I load the hatch (like my sunroof, or small grocery run)
I ended up installing one as pictured above, BUT, I did it as a point to mount a tether for a child seat. It allowed me to loop the tether over the seat back and hook to a loop I installed on the bar. I used it a handful of times to take the kiddo's for a ride.
Now that the kids are old enough to not need that, I plan on taking it back out. it doesn't mount to the shock bolts, but bolts to the sheet metal instead. I'll have to remove it, and weld up the holes and refinish.
I noticed ZERO difference in rigidity, or handling from the rear bar. All it does it get in the way of thinks when I load the hatch (like my sunroof, or small grocery run)
