Rebuilt Trans Grinding First?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 5.slowmaroon, Jul 6, 2013.


  1. 5.slowmaroon

    5.slowmaroon Member

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    i had a ford mechanic rebuild my trans. everything feels very smooth but from nuetral to first, it grinds. also, it grinds into reverse. Now the thing is, if i go from second to first it does not grind, as well as if i go from fifth to reverse it will not grind. clutch adjustment?>or inside of trans? clutch does feel good and did an adjustment but same results.
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  2. Mustang5L5

    Mustang5L5 Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt" SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Possible clutch adjustment.

    Reverse has no synchro on early t-5. If you attempt to go into reverse, throw it in 4th or another forward gear first to stop the trans from spinning and then go for reverse.


    As for grinding 1st. Let the clutch out in neutral with engine running, then push clutch in and immediately go for 1st. It will prob grind. Now do the same, but count to 10-15 and try for 1st. Does it still grind? If so, your clutch is dragging lightly
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  3. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Clutch adjustment
    Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

    A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

    Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

    The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

    Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
    See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
    Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
    The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
    Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit[​IMG]

    Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

    [​IMG]
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