Recommendations For Mustang Purchase

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Audiophile, Sep 13, 2013.


  1. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Id prob get beat by mr. coffee
     
    #21
  2. Audiophile

    Audiophile Active Member

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    LOL, you guys are hilarious. I always like to talk about cars, whether it belongs to me or someone else. But, it would be nice if these cars did attract the chicks sometimes. Too many dudes can get annoying. :)

    I've never owned much that looked worth racing. But, I've witnessed these clowns doing it to others out there. It usually seems to me the idiots that are looking for a race don't have much more than a loud exhaust. Those that know they have goods seem to, for the most part, keep to themselves. But, that's just what I've noticed.
     
    #22
  3. Noobz347

    Noobz347 Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor Admin Dude

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    I don't think there's a specific one. It usually has some sort of obnoxious fart can on it. Seems like bone stock Camaro SSs think that they're bad asses too sometimes.
     
    #23
  4. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    I hear ya. However, as for the camaros compared to the majority they are.
     
    #24
  5. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Edit- compared to the majority of fox/94/95 stangs
     
    #25
  6. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    I always appreciate when a fellow car nut compliments my car but the reason I mess around with mustangs is because I love them. I really down deep don't give a rats ass if girls/non-car people like it. And as far as the street light terrors out there I always refer them to the local strip if they think they can beat me. Way to old to be running them on the street. In today's world it's just plain stupid/dangerous. And by the way 9 out of 10 don't want any of the dragstrip action. The ones that do usually don't fare well when they do show up;)
     
    #26
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  7. Audiophile

    Audiophile Active Member

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    Finally found and pulled the trigger on what I was looking for. Bought a 92 GT that has 66K original miles. I will try to throw up some pics asap. Thanks to all for their suggestions and help!
     
    #27
  8. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    :grats: And welcome to the Cult:rock:
     
    #28
  9. cleanLX

    cleanLX Founding Member

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  10. Grabbin' Asphalt

    Grabbin' Asphalt Mustang Master

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    That's a pretty hot vert :eek:
     
    #30
  11. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Y
    Yes it is. But not 16,500$-18,500$ with both sets of tires nice. Guy is off by 5k IMO
     
    #31
  12. Grabbin' Asphalt

    Grabbin' Asphalt Mustang Master

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    Oh he's trying for top $$ for sure. Someone with a childhood memories price tag, he's selling the past...Lol
     
    #32
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  13. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Welcome to Stangnet... :spot:

    Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
    with excellence!

    Places to check out here on Stangnet:
    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/technical-thread-how-to-index.808661/ How to do it tips for some of the most common problems and upgrades for 5.0 Fox body Mustangs.
    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-official-progress-threads-thread.761371/ the collection of build/progress threads from Stangnet members. You get to find ideas and clues to what works well and what doesn’t.
    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/ Has tech tips for common problems on Mustangs.

    If you are in California or some other state with strict emissions laws, part of the deal should be that the owner takes the car and has it emissions tested. If it passes, you buy the car and pay for the emissions test cost, if any. If it does not pass, walk away from the deal. For a mechanically inexperienced owner, emissions related problems can be difficult and expensive to fix. Avoid any car that was originally EFI and has been converted to carb like the plague. That's often a clue to the fact the previous owner had problems and the resulting hack job has MORE problems.

    Keep in mind that states with strict emissions laws may make the go faster goals more difficult to reach. Some parts are OK to replace with aftermarket parts and others aren't. Check carefully before you get out your wallet and buy something you can't use in the area where you live.


    If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend. Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running for the Monday morning drive to work or class.

    Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang has both metric and American fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches. A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need. Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment if you stick to well known name brands.

    A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun. Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter projects that stangs tend to become.

    EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one: don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

    Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst: ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

    It's about $35-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

    Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

    For lots of great ideas and tech notes on upgrades and repairs, be sure to check
    out http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=643651 “Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.

    Things that break often:
    T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
    TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
    Electric door locks (see the link in my sig for a cheap & easy fix)
    O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go down hill after that.
    TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
    Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
    Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from most of the larger auto parts stores.

    Things that are very durable: Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000 miles without an overhaul
    Rear axle - other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock, they almost never have problems.
    Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own. Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
    Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000 RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.

    Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
    Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the water pump.
    Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
    Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
    Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car to the shop to get it properly aligned.
    Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination of socket, universal joint and extensions.

    Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require some patience and though before you get started.
     
    #33
  14. Audiophile

    Audiophile Active Member

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    Here are a couple of pictures.
     

    Attached Files:

    #34
  15. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Clean car. Looks good.
     
    #35
  16. Grabbin' Asphalt

    Grabbin' Asphalt Mustang Master

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    Nice one :nice:
    ...how much did it set you back??
     
    #36
  17. elarm1

    elarm1 Active Member

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    Nice ride there clean as a whistle
     
    #37
  18. Audiophile

    Audiophile Active Member

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    Thanks everyone!

    I had to replace tires, radiator, and a carrier bearing. While they were doing the bearing, I went ahead and had them put in 3.73 gears. I also had a short throw shifter and cat-back exhaust bolted on.

    I already want more power, so am going to start a plan on what to do next. I'm now in CA, so going to be a challenge to get what I want and still pass emissions, I'm afraid. Oh well, will do the best I can!

    Oh yeah, I went ahead and had new plugs put in. My long time mechanic hates Bosch plugs, and that's what it had. So, we went back with Motorcraft. Probably not necessary, but I figured since the car had been sitting for a while, it couldn't hurt.
     
    #38
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2013
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  19. GroverDill

    GroverDill GoldMember

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    very nice!
     
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  20. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    throw a low boost blower/h/c/i on it. With a good tune you'll pass emissions and still have enough power to hang with most of the new cars. But first I recommend sub frame connectors and some suspension/brake upgrades. Get it to turn and brake efficiently first. Then make more power. Again nice purchase
     
    #40

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