reinstalling same ring and pinion, need help

[V8_Kind_Of_Guy]

I removed my old ring and pinion set up in thinking I was going to swap it out for a different ratio set. Now that things have changed, I am sticking with my current set. However, putting it back together, with a new crush collar, and trying to tighten down the pinion nut, the pinion itself still has play. It is able to move about 1/4" in and out. What's the deal?

Nothing has been changed, and I mean nothing. I never even removed the bearing from the pinion. Any ideas? The crush collar doesn't even seem to be touching/crushing. I used a 26" breaker bar and got it as tight as possible. Even tried a 1/2" impact.

 

[reldla1996]

Doesn't sound like the crush collar has "crushed". They can be tough. I've always used an impact to crush them, checking often (very often) for progress (at some point with an inch pound torque wrench). I've also went too far (tight) and to back it back out, and buy a second new crush sleeve...but details.

 

[rockyracoon]

did you put the oil slinger back in ?

As previously stated you probably have a ways to go in terms of crushing the C/S. I have had to use a breaker bar with a pipe on it, or get on the passenger side and use your legs to push the breaker bar. Once you get all of the play out you will then have to get your inch pound torque wrench and start checking for the correct preload. Just dont go too far or you will need a new C/S.

 

[rd]

It takes a bunch of torque to start the crush collar crushing. Probably in the 3-400 ft lb range. I used a 4 ft pipe cheater bar, and still had to lean on it. Not a good place for pawn shop breaker bars.

Helps to make a spanner or helper wrench that bolts to a couple of the driveshaft flange holes to hold the flange.

Once you feel it start to crush, and take up the slack, then go slowly and measure the turning torque, in inch lbs. It will work.

 

[FoMoCo17]

Pull the spacer out and tighten it without it to make sure things tighten up to a 25-50 in-lb rotational drag then check your pattern. If okay, re-install collapsible spacer and tighten it down til no play is evident. Now you are ready to collapse the spacer. Get a very long breaker bar (3/4" drive works best. Start tightening and you shall feel that when you really bear down on it (use pipe 3' or so) it shall start to turn. Once you have turned it about 1/2 turn from original dead zero with no play (threaded nut tight) start checking your bearings with an inch-lb torque wrench to achieve your 25-50 in lbs. rotational drag on the pinion nut. Once achieved (w/good wear pattern) you are done. As far as using an impact, they used one on my car at the dealer many years ago and was the cause of my roaring problem in the rear and scored bearing rollers due to being too tight. Yeah, it lasted about 17 years and I never knew what was wrong until I opened it up and found the problem which progressively got worse and worse sounding. Use an in-lb. torque wrench and tighten it by hand to collapse the spacer because the preoad sneaks up quick as the spacer begins to collapse!

Sounds like you didn't begin to collapse the space yet like suggested above! Measure your new spacer against the old ... if its larger in thickness, it has not been collapsed yet ... or just get a new one and retry it.