Remote trunk lock problems with Shelby style decklid

[jb1dsl]

Remote trunk release problems with Shelby style decklid

I have the shelby style decklid for my 66 fastback and wanted to shave the lock on it so I ordered the remote trunk release. I have the release run all the way and notched the decklid for the trunk latch. I put a hole in the bottom of the decklid to run the mechanism through. All good so far but when I hook it up to the latch it will not pull it far enough to release. It seems like it pulls it kind of up instead of over but the way the decklid bolt holes are built up it can not pull it straight over like it needs. Does anyone have any pointers to get it to release and some pics of theres installed on a shelby decklid or standard. The instructions are terrible but it is pretty dummy proof, I THOUGHT!!! PLease help this is one of the last things holding up my body work!!!

Thanks

 

[RUSTYNUT]

I think you need to use a latch made for remote release.

 

[jb1dsl]

65-66 mustangs used the regular latch, 67 and up used a different latch.

 

[66HertzClone]

While I don't have a Shelby style trunk lid, I think this will still work for you.

Look down at the bottom of this page, I desribed how I put the remote release in my 66.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/597572/7

 

[ARPM]

MY 65 VERT REMOTE TRUNK RELEASE

I don't have a Fastback but my vert has the shelby style lid and i had some troubles in the installation of the kit. 1st the lock pin that comes in the kit it's a special one that has a redesign in the head to allow more movement to the left and right, 2nd the cable must be routed avoiding sharp turns beceuse it will make it hard to pull and it will not release correctly. In my case i fitted a spring with a self designed bracket to help in the return. Here are some Pic's

http://www.prtc.net/~bonwell//deck.JPG

http://www.prtc.net/~bonwell//NEW PIN.GIF

http://www.prtc.net/~bonwell//latch1.JPG

http://www.prtc.net/~bonwell//latch2.JPG

http://www.prtc.net/~bonwell//latch3.JPG

 

[jb1dsl]

did you put spacers between the lid and the latch to move it out? The pics look like you did. I notched out the fiberglass and have my release run inside the deckid, where as yours is out far enough to run on the outside of the skin of the decklid

 

[ARPM]

If you look close to my 3rd pic (latch1.jpg) you will see that I made a spacer out of aluminum that is 1/2" thick but after installing the remote release I had to add a 1/8" front end alignment shim to bring it out a bit so the trunk latch will not hit the striker. In fact I had the 2 rivets at the latch ground almost close to the metal for extra clearance.

In the beginning I though that it was a problem with the lid. But I have a Fastback one that came as a mistake from CJ'S and I never returned because of the shipping cost back, so I tried it in it and the same problem showed up. So it looks like is a common problem in some of these deck lids from certain manufacturer. I spoke to my sales rep at CJ'S in order to evade buying again the same and ask them who the manufacturer was, but they didn't tell me who the manufacturer was so I decided to fix the problem making that 1/2" spacer.

That was not the only problem I encountered with the lid. Besides a very! very! Bad finish in the fiberglass, the curves near the edges of the quarter panels and the extension near the top trim, the top edge of the spoiler thickness was ranging from 1/4" to 5/8" in some places. Also the end caps where of different shape and length. The studs where coming loose in the driver side by just fitting them in to the quarter. I regret not using a metal lid that I had modified with the spoiler added to it.

On the other side a friend of mine got a new one from *bay for his Fastback and it was a breeze to fit it and finish it. Well... that was my welcome to the fiberglass Blues!