So while working on the rear suspension today, everything is going fine until we reach the UCA's. The control arm came out with no issue, but the bushing in the rearend housing is being much more stubborn. We tried banging it out, drilling out the bushing, prying it out yet it wont budge. We have soaked it in WD40 as well. At tis point we started to grind at the front of it, but I would rather not keep going with the grinder unless it is absolutely necessary. Does anyone have any tips?
Removal of bushings from rear end. Please help
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Removing the bushings from the axle?
Assumeing you have new bushings thst dont reuse the outer sleeves, take a Sharp drill bit and drill the rubber out. At some point you should be able to bang the inner sleeves out, then take the rubber out. Then with hammer and chisel hit the inner sleeves inward to collapse and shrink them. Then they should come right out.
For installation, a balljoint tool may help, but max motorsports specifically makes a tool for installation and removal.
Assumeing you have new bushings thst dont reuse the outer sleeves, take a Sharp drill bit and drill the rubber out. At some point you should be able to bang the inner sleeves out, then take the rubber out. Then with hammer and chisel hit the inner sleeves inward to collapse and shrink them. Then they should come right out.
For installation, a balljoint tool may help, but max motorsports specifically makes a tool for installation and removal.
v8stang289
15 Year Member
- Apr 22, 2008
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I have had success using an air hammer with a chisel point to cave in a few places around the outer shell of the bushing, and then using the air hammer to drive it out. Of course this is if you aren't reusing the outer shell. If you are, you can probably burn the rubber out with a torch.
Beasty306GT
Active Member
We are not reusing the outer housing. Team Z spherical bushings are going in to replace the tired rubber bushings. I just wanted to be sure that the pick it apart piece by piece method was the only route to go. That MM tool looks like it would definitely get the job done, but I would hate to spend the $30 for a tool that will hopefully be used once and never used again. Thanks for the input guys. I will post the results.
You might not need it again but a buddy of yours might so it's a good investment, and think of all the cussing that it'll save you.
Option #1
I would do the same thing, but if you don't have an air compressor and air chisel, see option #1
I would do the same thing, but if you don't have an air compressor and air chisel, see option #1
Maryland Stang
Active Member
Yup. I have the tool. It's been sitting in my toolbox for 3 years. I used it once and it paid for it's self on one use.
After reading stories about that MM tool not working and seizing up, i decieded not to go that route...
Its not as hard as everyone makes it out to be! The tool is not needed, this job can be done in one hour tops. It took me 30 minutes to do it.
Drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, i think i used a 3/8'' bit. After you have a few holes in you can actually rotate the drill around the metal sleeve and this will totally take the rubber out of it. From there i used a sawz all to cut the sleeve, be careful not to cut into the rear housing. After it has a cut in it, you just hammer it out of the housing. Its pretty simple, dosent cost $50(tool cost plus shipping), and you dont have to wait the time it takes to ship from Cali to Florida to get a tool that might not even work.
Its not as hard as everyone makes it out to be! The tool is not needed, this job can be done in one hour tops. It took me 30 minutes to do it.
Drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, i think i used a 3/8'' bit. After you have a few holes in you can actually rotate the drill around the metal sleeve and this will totally take the rubber out of it. From there i used a sawz all to cut the sleeve, be careful not to cut into the rear housing. After it has a cut in it, you just hammer it out of the housing. Its pretty simple, dosent cost $50(tool cost plus shipping), and you dont have to wait the time it takes to ship from Cali to Florida to get a tool that might not even work.
I have never heard any story of the tool not working. It is a ultra simple, fool proof design. In and out in less than fifteen minutes a side, plus it sets the new bushing at the proper depth. You've obviously never used it.
You are correct, Ive never used it, never said i even tried it, i figured that was pretty clear in my post. I read from a few different guys on corral saying the tool didnt work, I have no reason to lie about it.
Also in my post was where i said it took me 30 minutes, which is 15 per side and i saved myself $50 dollars in the process. I also didnt put bushings in that needed any kind of adjustment, so again, the tool is useless to me and everyone else that is using a soild piece in the axle housing.
Like Green mentioned we got the busing completely out, just the sleeve left. Since the MM tool won't work without the bushing present we will need to chisel or cut the sleeve out. The other side we will just use the tool when it arrives. Those axle ears are pretty thin to be heating up and bang out.
Here are some pics.
How wasted are these quad shocks? They haven't been doing anything in years except adding weight.
Here are some pics.
How wasted are these quad shocks? They haven't been doing anything in years except adding weight.
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TenorPlayinGuy
Founding Member
What are Quad shocks for?
That thing called wheel hops that guys claim goes away with aftermarket control arms but sometimes doesn't and then they wonder why
I have always been reluctant to remove parts put there by the factory just on someone's word that they are unnecessary. That being said, Dave Zimmerman told me that with the sperical/solid bushings all around out back that the quad shocks are not needed. With his experience backing that statement I am will ing to give it a shot, especially being that it will save me some cash. I have read very mixed results with quad shock removal from people with every type of stock style suspension imaginable, so we will see. Maybe I will get lucky, and maybe a new set of quad shocks will be on the way in a couple weeks.That thing called wheel hops that guys claim goes away with aftermarket control arms but sometimes doesn't and then they wonder why
Those quad shocks haven't helped axle hop in 10+ years. They are completely trashed, the bushings are dry rotted.
Torque boxes are in good shape. Although the guy welding in the sub frame connectors should go over the torque boxes while he's got it on the lift.
Guess we'll see soon if there is any axle hop present.
Torque boxes are in good shape. Although the guy welding in the sub frame connectors should go over the torque boxes while he's got it on the lift.
Guess we'll see soon if there is any axle hop present.
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