Repair help for tomorrow (Heater core and wireing gremlins)
- Thread starter Swede958
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The Ford manuals are available from the vendor or SOME public libraries AND, perhaps, on-line. I dunno 
BTW, my '65 Ford manual along with my data book, sit right next to my computer monitor for easy reference. I've used these COUNTLESS times over the years.
BTW, my '65 Ford manual along with my data book, sit right next to my computer monitor for easy reference. I've used these COUNTLESS times over the years.
65fsbkhipo
Founding Member
SD...moving you're #7 Timeless Wisdom quote to #2 would draw some attention. Although #1 still remains the premier rule, students tend to go by the order of things.
65fsbkhipo said:
hipo: The "Timeless Wisdons "are entirely random and in no particular order of priority. Some waifs have likened the Timeless Wisdoms to the Ten Commandments which, likewise, are entirely random.
What is the status of the repair?
It is my turn to replace the heater core of an ACed 69 mach1...I am not looking forward to this, having r/r the dash before to r/r the wiring harness.
after your repair was completed did you happen to come accros some short cut that you didn't see before? Like...heater core can be replaced by lowering the lower half of the heater box?
please tell me some good news.
Chris
It is my turn to replace the heater core of an ACed 69 mach1...I am not looking forward to this, having r/r the dash before to r/r the wiring harness.
after your repair was completed did you happen to come accros some short cut that you didn't see before? Like...heater core can be replaced by lowering the lower half of the heater box?
please tell me some good news.
Chris
Swede958 said:
Now I got some bad news cfauvel... I'm still at it 
, granted I've had to do a lot of work besides just dropping int he heater core. Plus limited time and space in small workshop/shed.
Pretty much it's nasty through and through. Here's what I did:
Unhook A/C and heater lines- I do not believe that you can just drop the lower box, as there are clips on the far side that if ripped will screw the box.
Pull off plate in engine bay.
Pull off dashpad, glovebox and inst. cluster.
Loosed lower dash all the way, so only wires from switches are holding it on.
Loosen nuts holding box up, pull box down and out
That's the short of it, to get everything out was a real pain. Plus I had to make some structural repairs to my box. Also i would recommend getting everything pressure tested before it goes back in, including any new parts. Would also be a good time to renew all of the foam peices inside (heater box seal kit). Mine were actually disentigrating.
Good news is I'm almost done, just need a couple screws that gremlins stole to secure parts inside box, then it is to be put back together, and put back in car. Still need to diagnose fan switch problem, but I should have it done soon. (Knock on wood).
The Swede
, granted I've had to do a lot of work besides just dropping int he heater core. Plus limited time and space in small workshop/shed.Pretty much it's nasty through and through. Here's what I did:
Unhook A/C and heater lines- I do not believe that you can just drop the lower box, as there are clips on the far side that if ripped will screw the box.
Pull off plate in engine bay.
Pull off dashpad, glovebox and inst. cluster.
Loosed lower dash all the way, so only wires from switches are holding it on.
Loosen nuts holding box up, pull box down and out
That's the short of it, to get everything out was a real pain. Plus I had to make some structural repairs to my box. Also i would recommend getting everything pressure tested before it goes back in, including any new parts. Would also be a good time to renew all of the foam peices inside (heater box seal kit). Mine were actually disentigrating.
Good news is I'm almost done, just need a couple screws that gremlins stole to secure parts inside box, then it is to be put back together, and put back in car. Still need to diagnose fan switch problem, but I should have it done soon. (Knock on wood).
The Swede
pabear89
Active Member
Good news is I'm almost done, just need a couple screws that gremlins stole to secure parts inside box
There being held Hostage, will release them for a price.
let us know about the fan troubles.
PB
a buddy of mine has done a number of 69-70 heater cores and a/c installs.. he usually plans for about 40 hours on the job... and like you did, he replaces the foam and such when he's into it that far... I replaced my heater core 2 years ago in my 68 428 a/c car,,, it is not a fun job at all !!
Well, here's an update...
Checked the fuse on the panel- assuming it is the one labled 'Heater'. Pulled it out, and it had what looked like a small bubble-thing of solder at the joint of an end and the glass. Ran a ohm meter test on it and it seems to be working
Then I pulled the switch to see of that was faulty... pulled it apart and it seems like it is way to simple to cost 50$ from Vintage Air. If anyone is not familiar, it is a lever on a plastic slide with a spring, connecting to another brass slide, which contacts terminals on the backside of the switch. Well, I cleaned all of those up and put it back together. I ran and ohm test on it before and it seemed to work, and after it worked too. So what I'm gonna do it throw another fuse in just in case, then reinstall everything and see if it works... if it doesn't I think I've going to cry.
For the box, finally got it back together, epoxied a vacuum canister bracket back on the center blower housing, and put both boxes back together. I tested my blower motor (good) and was ready to install it in it's box... but the Gremlins took my rubberized seal!! I had it like 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt the boxes, and thought I put it back in the box it came from.. but no dice
Oh well, the journey continues... luckily this is my last week of school and I will be able to work on my car until next semester in the mornings before work.
The Swede
Checked the fuse on the panel- assuming it is the one labled 'Heater'. Pulled it out, and it had what looked like a small bubble-thing of solder at the joint of an end and the glass. Ran a ohm meter test on it and it seems to be working
Then I pulled the switch to see of that was faulty... pulled it apart and it seems like it is way to simple to cost 50$ from Vintage Air. If anyone is not familiar, it is a lever on a plastic slide with a spring, connecting to another brass slide, which contacts terminals on the backside of the switch. Well, I cleaned all of those up and put it back together. I ran and ohm test on it before and it seemed to work, and after it worked too. So what I'm gonna do it throw another fuse in just in case, then reinstall everything and see if it works... if it doesn't I think I've going to cry.
For the box, finally got it back together, epoxied a vacuum canister bracket back on the center blower housing, and put both boxes back together. I tested my blower motor (good) and was ready to install it in it's box... but the Gremlins took my rubberized seal!!
I had it like 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt the boxes, and thought I put it back in the box it came from.. but no diceOh well, the journey continues... luckily this is my last week of school and I will be able to work on my car until next semester in the mornings before work.
The Swede
pabear89
Active Member
Check the fuse holders connection on the fuse.
mine quit once but I found small amount of corrosion on the holder tabs.
cleaned it and it worked fine.
Or check the res on the heaterbox they stop working for no reason.
PB
p.s. One of the guys must have pocketed the seal,
I only sent them after some screws.
mine quit once but I found small amount of corrosion on the holder tabs.
cleaned it and it worked fine.
Or check the res on the heaterbox they stop working for no reason.
PB
p.s. One of the guys must have pocketed the seal,
I only sent them after some screws.
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