replaced heater coil now stang won't start!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by jnorred, Dec 16, 2003.


  1. jnorred

    jnorred New Member

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    Well... I did the dreaded heater coil replacement on my daily driver 88 GT. That was a PAIN IN THE ASS! But I finally got it done. Anyways... After got the dash almost back together I decided to start her up... Nothing happens... Well... Almost nothing... Here are the symptoms...

    First, be aware that when I was removing the dash I forgot to disconnect the battery cable so there was some sparking somewhere behind the fuse panel.


    When I put the key in the ignition, I get the "key chime" but as soon as I even bump the brake pedal the chime abruptly stops. Also, if I hit the automatic door locks, the passenger door will lock/unlock however the driver's door just kinda makes a click sound. I also get a kinda "static" sound coming from the small car alarm speaker under the dash. The instrument panel seems completely dead. The only movement I have seen is from the tach when I first start to turn the key it moves and then when I turn the key all the way its like the instruments go dead. Also, the headlights and taillights are completely dead. If I try to turn my hazzards on I get a slower than normal clicking sound from under the dash but no hazzards. The only electrical that seems to be working fine is my interior dome lighting. I have checked all the fuses in the fuse panel and they all seem fine.

    Any other ideas??? I'm lost...
    #1
  2. Demented4.6

    Demented4.6 Founding Member

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    is your battery charged. sounds like a possible dead battery
    #2
  3. sunburstpony

    sunburstpony New Member

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    did you check out your battery for voltage make sure your battery is charged because finding electrical probs with a dead battery is impossible.
    #3
  4. Black 93 Fox

    Black 93 Fox Active Member

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    Check your battery as said above
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  5. tvmango

    tvmango New Member

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    I will forth that
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  6. jnorred

    jnorred New Member

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    Yep... Sorry... Should have mentioned that... I have 12.25 volts on the battery. I don't even get a Click, Click when trying to start the car.
    #6
  7. tvmango

    tvmango New Member

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    like this is no news to you, but you fried somthing, youll have to take it apart to find a fried wire, if you saw a spark. there is no real help I can give you, there is way to much wiring in there to tell over the net. you might have to either get a electrical wiring diagram, or bring the car to a electrical auto shop if your not good with electrical. try the simple things first, are you getting power to the ignition switch? If not you'll have to trace back from there, you may have blown a fuseable link, but I don't know where they are to check, sorry man...
    #7
  8. stock SVT

    stock SVT New Member

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    Before you go spending alot of money at a shop. Go ahead and check all the basics. Check all fuses/relays/ etc... in the car and in the engine bay. Make sure it is not something obvious. Then get your trusty test light out and start checking from point a to point B. Start with someone turning the key to start the car while you test the lead wire on your starter. Also, start by looking for anything obvious where you were working. Check plug connections etc...

    Greg Monroe

    Also, check the cranking voltage of the battery. If it drops below 9 volts its bad.
    #8
  9. jnorred

    jnorred New Member

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    Well... I got home tonight and checked a couple of things before it got dark. With the key off my test light works just fine on the positive battery terminal. But as soon as I turn the key to on I lose my light. Does that mean I have some type of MAJOR short on the circuit?
    #9
  10. tvmango

    tvmango New Member

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    no that means your battery is probably junk, try jump starting it.... or swapping the battery..
    #10
  11. tvmango

    tvmango New Member

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    do the same with your test light but just turn the lights on, If you test light dies again, i would definately say battery..
    #11
  12. somersdp

    somersdp New Member

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    What's a heater coil? J/K Im messing with you man, but its a heater core! You need to take a load tester to your battery. It doesnt mean sh** if you have volts, your load test may come back bad and that means NO cranky cranky if ya know what I mean. If its good then start probing important wires from the back of a Haynes manual and checking for continuity and resistance. Hope this helps man.
    #12
  13. IBChillin32182

    IBChillin32182 Founding Member

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    I had a similar problem whenever i did my heater core a couple months ago and it was all due to my stupid car alarm :mad: . when i turned the key the car would go completely dead. I also forgot to disconnect the battery :nonono: when i did mine and it fried the relay for the starter kill on the alarm. It took me about 2 hours with a volt meter to figure out what it was.
    #13
  14. cardudeusa

    cardudeusa Founding Member

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    It does sound like your battery is junk. Best thing you can do is pull it out and bring it to a parts store like AAP or Autozone and have them test it. :nice: If you go to Advance and your battery is dead the part number you would need is 58-2. :D
    #14
  15. sunburstpony

    sunburstpony New Member

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    can you check to see if your starter is stuck. give it a few taps. sounds like it but only brainstorming. it doesn't cost anything to check. cranking a car draws major amps. if a starter is stuck it can drain the life from your car. heat can kill a starter.
    #15
  16. jnorred

    jnorred New Member

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    Well.... I got it fixed. It was my battery cables. It had nothing to do with the fact that I changed the heater "core". Anyways... All I can say now is DUH!

    Thanks for the help...

    Jason
    #16

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