Replacing Camshaft Position Sensor on '95 3.8L V6

My daughter has a 95 that I was changing the cam sensor out on this weekend, and I ran into the same problem that Nicbait did. The parts store gave us the wrong sensor. The one on the car has "Non-Adjustable" on the cover and is larger than the one that is listed for a 95.

There must have been a sensor change during the 95 model year. Does anyone know if maybe a 94 or 96 uses the same type of larger sensor....?


if you are trying an autozone part it wont be right.. they are the biggest ****ups
out there.. their computer system sucks and is constantly wrong..
their parts are cheaply made, and most that work there havent got a clue about cars nevermind car parts....if your looking for the correct parts bring your VIN
to the dealer..and your guaranteed to get the right part the first time..it may be a few dollars more but you have already spent that by waisting your time and
money chasing down a cheaper version..**** with gas prices going up this summer
you probably pissed through a couple gallons just to return a part you cant use..

i dont know when the production change was for a different sensor
but i do have 4 different cam tools for different applications which
on the package says what yrs and engine size it fits...
if i remember today i will write it down..
 
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Thanks 2much, I appreciate it. And yes, I believe she did pick up the part at AutoZone. I hear what you're saying since I've run into the same thing with the wrong parts from them before.:bang:

Her CEL came on a couple weeks ago, and I was confused at first because I thought it was OBD I (being a 95 model). Later I found out that Ford experimented with OBD II on the 95 3.8 Mustangs and Thunderbirds only.....

The code turned out to be P0340. When I removed the sensor, luckily the vane and syncronizer looked good, so a new cam sensor should fix it.
 
Ok CEL just came onf ro me and I went to Advanced Auto Parts for the free diagnostic. Well turns out it's the Camshaft Sensor. So I look it up online and find this forum. Very helpful by the way, just a few questions.

1st The website you provided only mentions that the tool is needed for a 4.0L enigine. Does this mean that a 3.8L does not need it? :shrug:

2nd If the tool is needed where can I find one?? I called up Napa Auto parts, because they rent out tools, but they cant find it. They say they called a mechanic and he says he has never heard of using any special tools for the job.

I kno I am a girl and not so car savvy, but I do a kno a little. I need to get this thing fixed asap, please help me.
 
Darkprincess, the cam position sensor consists of two units, a syncronizer shaft and a sensor that bolts on top of the shaft assembly. Chances are, all you need is the sensor part. A special alignment tool is not required to replace the sensor; it attaches with 2 small bolts and a wiring plug, after getting access to it by removing the coil pack.

It's very easy to change, but make sure you get the right part. Apparently there's two sizes, one larger than the other with a "Non-Adjustable" script printed on top. The parts store might want to give you a smaller type that will not fit. It's best to take the old one with you to match up the parts correctly.

If the entire synconizer unit is removed from the engine block, then there is a special tool to get it back in "time". There's also a procedure to 'time' it by use of a multimeter. This isn't needed to simply replace the sensor part, however.

Hope this helps, and welcome to Stangnet.
HYS
 
Thank you sooo much!!!

Also question now the CEL went off but car acting funny.

The heat is being all screwy. It wont blow ou hot air until u turn the air on full blast and let it go for a bit. Also the car looks as tho it will over heat when this happens. What do u think it could be??

Just few months ago my Waterpump went and aI had to replace that could it possibly be my radiator now??
 
Coolant level seems ok I think there might be blockage somewhere though.

My overflow tank was at the line and my radiator was a little empty,but it wouldn't take ne more in from the overflow. So I filled up the radiator and it is still having issues with the heat. Then a few days ago I went to get my husband from work and found that my overflow tank had all sucked into the radiator but I am currently out of fluid so I will have to buy some more.

The weather in RI has been screwy and I dont want it to get cold out again and have just water in there.

I will try making sure the radiator, and overflow are full and se if that helps. if not I am going to have it flushed to see if maybe there is a clog somewhere.
 
Sounds like a good plan on the flush. Might be a good idea to backflush the heater core too by removing the heater hoses and using a garden hose. Your heating problem might be a combination of low coolant and partially clogged heater core.

Changing the thermostat is always a good idea, since it's relatively cheap and easy. Also make sure the heater control valve is opening and closing fully......
:)
 
ok so I got the Cmashaft sensor replaced. After 3 visits to Advanced Autoparts and 2 wrong sensors.:bang:

Turns out I have a Windstar Engine, go figure.

So thats all done CEL is off and no issues atm with the heat. Running great now better than before.:cheers:

Thank you for you help :)

Btw had 5 ppl look at my engine and the only female in the group is the one who figured out I had a Windstar Engine lol. I thought it was Hilarious.
 
Glad you got it fixed, DP.:nice:
Apparently there's two types of sensors used in these model years. I had the same problem with my daughter's 95; finally had to bring the old sensor in to match it up with the right one.

That's interesting about the Windstar engines being used in Mustangs, and might explain the differences in the sensors.......
 
I have a 95 5.0 the car was bogging out and died one day. Wouldn't start. Was cranking but wouldn't turn over. Changed one fuse that was out (convertible top oddly) and it worked. Rarely driven.
Took er out again and it was riding funny. Died at the first stop sign and again wouldn't turn over. I checked if gas would spray out when I turned the key and it did. I was told this might be the cam sensor. After reading this, I will take the old one to the parts store. Hoping this is the problem and not something worse