Replacing UCA and Mount in '12GT

Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by beviking, Mar 29, 2013.


  1. beviking

    beviking Member

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    Had this discussion at allfords so I figured I would UCAbolt.jpg UCAbolt1.jpg UCAbolt2.jpg post here since stangnet was my first love :SN:

    This was done in my driveway on jack stands. Hopefully will get the new Steeda adj arm and mount installed tomorrow, God willing since it's Good Friday, have to make service. Anyway...
    Finally got some decent weather and a few minutes! Put the adj. panhard on yesterday, decided to tackle the UCA/mount today. Only took me 2hrs to get the stock one off! That includes breaking up a couple fights between the kids and making dinner too. Here's my set up and pointers I can offer.

    Rear axle on jack stands and stands also at jack points just in case. Wheels were off the ground a brick width plus 2X4 so slid them under too, just in case. Front wheels chocked, both wheels, front/back. Also had the jack under the differential for most of the removal for added safety.
    To remove the two bolts at the rear of the upper control mount, I used extensions long enough to reach the bolt and swing the ratchet below the differential (about 15" of extensions!) plus a swivel adapter at the socket. I used a 1/2" ratchet but the extensions were 3/8" and they worked well enough.
    Next, I used the 1/2" ratchet and socket only, no extensions, to remove the nut (see pic) on the passenger side of the top of the differential. The space was really tight and only got 2 clicks on the ratchet at a time. Used the rear sway bar and panhard bar to brace against. Once it was broke loose, I put another ratchet on the bolt head side to hold it (swung so it was against something to brace it) and used an extension and swivel adapter to take the nut off the rest of the way. On into the interior, removed the rear seat to remove the uca mount bolt. Only had a deep 24mm socket and it needed so much torque, it would slip off. Buddy had an electric impact wrench he wanted me to try. No go. Grabbed a neighbors 24mm socket (not a deep socket), put it on the breaker bar, knelt on the ground with drivers door open, reached into the car and used the car to pull against and it came off easier than I expected. Had to support the car at jacking points to let the rear droop so I could get the arm/mount out. Have the new Steeda mount and adj. arm ready to go in and it should go in easier than it came out. Like everything, if I had to do it again, would be much quicker!

    The pictures show (l to r) the rear diff. with the nut on top. Same pic with socket wrench on the nut. Hand on the wrench showing how little space there was.
    #1
  2. beviking

    beviking Member

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    Why are the pics at the top of the page? Apparently He has a sense of humor!
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  3. Clair Smith

    Clair Smith Active Member

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    Looks like a pain in the butt..
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  4. TT5.0ca

    TT5.0ca Member

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    Drop the two bolts holding the Panhard up and life gets easier. I got my Roush upper and mount installed, assembled, without removing anything but, other designs might not be as easy.
    #4
  5. sea ya

    sea ya Founding Member

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    Yeah let me tell you,it you don't remove driveshaft n exhaust its a nightmare,my body was sore for two days lol
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  6. Clair Smith

    Clair Smith Active Member

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    Good to know :)

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2
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  7. TT5.0ca

    TT5.0ca Member

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    You don't need to pull DS and exhaust to mount this, that's ridiculous. At worst you might have to drop the tank straps and the panhard mount for a little more access. just wear hearing protection if you fire up the windy gun to take off the big bolt in the interior, like I did. I banged that thing for a good 30 seconds at full chat to bust it loose.
    #7
  8. sea ya

    sea ya Founding Member

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    Yes for those that have a impact I think this may go a lil better
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  9. TT5.0ca

    TT5.0ca Member

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    Really that was the only place I could use the impact, given the tight confines. Anything else had to come off with a breaker bar and muscle. It wasn't that hard. The big bolt is the biggest barrier. If one can overcome that, everything else is pretty easy.
    #9
  10. sea ya

    sea ya Founding Member

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    And this is just why I'm not married,k dude you are right,now go away
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  11. TT5.0ca

    TT5.0ca Member

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    Sure that ain't the only reason? You did make this job sound all dramatic when it isn't. :shrug:
    #11
  12. beviking

    beviking Member

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    Drop what? Just let the rear end hang by supporting the car at jack points and you'll have plenty of room unless your forearms are 24". If they are, you're probably only married to the gym :)
    #12
  13. clev357

    clev357 This one time in man camp... Founding Member

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    A 24 inch and 12 inch 1/2"drive extension will let you reach the bolt from the next to the car. Makes it a lot easier, I realize not everyone has them, but may be a worthwhile investment if you plan to work on the car regularly.
    #13

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