Suspension Roaters, really after 29k miles??

Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by S197itshers, Mar 6, 2013.


  1. S197itshers

    S197itshers New Member

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    I've got a 2012 with approx 29k miles on it. When I brake fast I get the whole wobbeling stearing wheel. I'm sure this is from the roaters. Just wondering if anyone else is having this issue. I didnt think that the roaters would need to be machined down already with less then 30k miles on it.

    I was going to upgrade to the slotted cross drilled but if I'm eating up the stock roaters I dont know if I want to spend the money on the upgrade.
    #1
  2. earleys94gt

    earleys94gt Active Member

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    Sounds like the rotors just need to be machined.

    Do you do alot of hard braking or lots of stop and go traffic driving? This may help to explain why your car is "eating" front rotors...
    #2
  3. SMOKE46

    SMOKE46 New Member

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  4. S197itshers

    S197itshers New Member

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    Yes I do alot of freeway driving. Its just amazing to me that already having this issue. Had other cars in the past and no issues at all with the roaters.

    Just wondering if people were having the same issue. I called dealership this morning and its under warrenty.
    #4
  5. Husky44

    Husky44 Active Member

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    If it's under warranty then make sure you get new rotors AND new pads. Not aware of any problems on the Mustangs, but this is a BIG problem on the Super Duty trucks (at least early 2000 era). Contrary to most folks' belief, the rotors are not "warping", you're getting pad material thermally transferred to the rotors, creating high spots on the rotor. You can have them turned down, but if it's a warranty repair, have them put new ones on.

    However you fix them, the best single thing you can do to get good life from your brakes is to properly "bed" your pads. Do a Google search. It's nothing more than a series of near stops to heat and cool the pads and rotors; the key is to not stop for any time with hot rotors and pads (this is a good practice even after you've bedded them). If you've gotten them hot, and you're stuck at a stoplight, creep a little so that the pads are not sitting in one place on the rotors cooking.

    FWIW, I'd be happy with 30k on a set of pads and rotors if I'm driving hard.

    Also, my personal advice: Don't spend your money on drilled rotors; slotted rotors add some value but all of my research indicates that drilled ones are more prone to cracking, and don't add a lot of value, at least not on street cars.
    #5
  6. 95Vert383AOD

    95Vert383AOD Active Member

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    What kind of pads? I never had problems with any of my cars after switching to Ceramic pads. Plus the brake dust is easy to clean.
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  7. Coyote5.0

    Coyote5.0 Active Member

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    In my experience, brake rotor problems are pretty rare with Fords. My family, including me, have had a lot of Fords in the last 10 years, and none of them have ever had any warping issues. (In my experience, it is far more common on GMs). My brother's Mustang has 110K miles on it, and he's still on the original rotors and pads, and they are fine.
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  8. 95Vert383AOD

    95Vert383AOD Active Member

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    Pad replacement done right and you wont have brake issues. I work at a small dealership......I seem to be the only one who inspects slider pins and boots and re-greases them. You should be able to push and pull on them with fairly little force.
    #8
  9. Jsimmons

    Jsimmons New Member

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    I traded my Crown Vic in with the original brakes (pads and rotors) at 110k miles.
    #9
    slav1north likes this.

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