Royal Purple Motor Oil
- Thread starter Roush21
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Buy Mobil One!
I have heard two questionable comments on Royal Purple (I cannot claim to their truths)
1. I spoke with A local performance shop and they spoke about losing a newly built engine using Royal Purple oil. (email me if you want the shop name)
2. A rotating equipment engineer at the refinery I work at told me that he has seen independent test results indicating that their products contained high levels of sulfur in them. He implied it was snake oil. Re recommended Mobil 1. My plant uses almost all Mobil products including synthetics.
There will be replies back to these statements claiming they have used it sucessfully and flags will fly.
Just use caution.
Mobil One is a pretty well accepted and proven product. Plus they sell Mobil 1 everywhere.
I have heard two questionable comments on Royal Purple (I cannot claim to their truths)
1. I spoke with A local performance shop and they spoke about losing a newly built engine using Royal Purple oil. (email me if you want the shop name)
2. A rotating equipment engineer at the refinery I work at told me that he has seen independent test results indicating that their products contained high levels of sulfur in them. He implied it was snake oil. Re recommended Mobil 1. My plant uses almost all Mobil products including synthetics.
There will be replies back to these statements claiming they have used it sucessfully and flags will fly.
Just use caution.
Mobil One is a pretty well accepted and proven product. Plus they sell Mobil 1 everywhere.
JLstang351
Founding Member
Sorry fella's but I won't buy Mobil 1. Here is why Amsoil is probably the best synthetic oil you can get if not Royal Purple. I have talked to Amsoil sales people and they won't put down or say that their oil is better than Royal's and if you have seen the list of wear for Mobil 1 synthetic it is the WORST performace/protection synthetic motor oil you can buy. You can ask snkypete if anyone knows him he will tell you and show you the graph of the wear on different oils including Amsoil. Also like one of you said you can buy the crap at WalMart for like $23 for 5 qts. Everyone knows you get what you pay for and look where your buying it at. Nuf said! 
bergs
Member
Roush21 said:Sorry fella's but I won't buy Mobil 1. Here is why Amsoil is probably the best synthetic oil you can get if not Royal Purple. I have talked to Amsoil sales people and they won't put down or say that their oil is better than Royal's and if you have seen the list of wear for Mobil 1 synthetic it is the WORST performace/protection synthetic motor oil you can buy. You can ask snkypete if anyone knows him he will tell you and show you the graph of the wear on different oils including Amsoil. Also like one of you said you can buy the crap at WalMart for like $23 for 5 qts. Everyone knows you get what you pay for and look where your buying it at. Nuf said!
There is a guy over on SVTPerformance.com (Cobra'03) who is a tribologist. Do you know what that is? If not, go look it up! He has been providing great info on oils and lubrication for a long time. I think I'll listen to him before I listen to you....The only statement in your post that is factual is that Amsoil is one of the best oils available. The rest of your post is crap! Cobra'03 just posted this info the other day and you can read his complete thread here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79898
U.M.
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The Big Oil Post
These are the most comprehensive and recent ones I could find. They date to March 2003 and May 2003. I will post the numbers, add a comment or two, and answer any questions you may care to pose. These tests were commisioned by Amsoil, but since they use standardized ASTM protocols, they could easily be verified, and any deception challenged. Based on my experiences with the products from all these companies, and the results of similar but less comprehensive tests posted elsewhere, these do not look doctored or suspect. But as I did not oversee them, I cannot and will not be accountable for any discrepancies, real or imagined. This was a lot of work to type, and I strived to get them right.
1. All the oils were 10w30 viscosity
2. The oils tested were:
Amsoil (syn)
Castrol GTX Drive Hard (mineral)
Valvoline Synpower (syn)
Mobil Drive Clean (min) - isn't this the rebadged Honda oil?
Pennzoil Purebase (min)
Quaker State (Syn)
Quaker State Peak Perf (min)
Castrol Syntec (syn)
Valvoline (min)
Pennzoil Synthetic (syn)
Mobil1 SuperSyn (syn)
The following ASTM tests were run:
Thin-film Oxygen Uptake ( D-4742)
High Temp/High Shear ( D-4683)
NOACK Volatility ( D-5900)
Pout Point (D-97)
Total Base Number (D-2896)
Cold Cranking Simulator D-5293)
4-Ball Wear (D-4172)
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Test 1: Thin Film Oxygen Uptake:
Measures the oxidation stability of an oil.
The induction time (break point) in minutes is measured. The test uses standard amounts of fuel dilution, soluble metals, and water to offer a real-world applicability.
Results for this test(all units in minutes):
Amsoil: >500 (no break)
Mobil1: 397
Pennzoil Purebase: 242
Castrol Syntec: 221
Valvoline: 219
Vavoline SynPower: 211
Mobil Drive Clean: 209
Quaker State Peak Performance: 192
Pennzoil Synthetic: 159
Quaker State Synthetic: 159
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 132
Test 2: High Temperature/High Shear (HT/HS)
Measures a lube's performance under severe heat and shear (mechanical stress) as would be found in the journal bearings under heavy load. The units displayed are viscosity based, using the centipose unit (cP). The minimum spec for a 30w is 2.9 cP.
Results for this test (all units in cP):
Amsoil: 3.51
Quaker State Peak Performance: 3.37
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 3.35
Vavoline SynPower: 3.30
Mobil1: 3.30
Valvoline: 3.30
Mobil Drive Clean: 3.28
Pennzoil Purebase: 3.16
Quaker State Synthetic: 3.15
Pennzoil Synthetic: 3.14
Castrol Syntec: 3.13
Test 3: NOACK Volatility.
Measures the evaporative loss of lubricants in high temperature conditions. The higher the number, the thicker the lubricant will become. API SL and GF-3 specs allow for a 15% evaporation limit. In this test, obviously, lower is better. Syns almost always have an advantage due to their monomolecularity.
Results for this test (% weight loss):
Amsoil: 4.86
Vavoline SynPower: 7.03
Castrol Syntec: 7.77
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.80
Pennzoil Synthetic: 8.15
Mobil1: 8.92
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 8.93
Quaker State Peak Performance: 10.63
Mobil Drive Clean: 10.83
Pennzoil Purebase: 10.93
Valvoline: 12.18
Test 4: Pour Point
This test reveals the lowest temperature at which a lubricant will flow when cooled under test conditions. The lower, the better the product will perform in getting from the oil pan to the upper oil galleys, and in providing oil pressure quickly. Synoils generally are the best, because they are free of wax crystals, but today's mineral oils are better refined to remove wax impurities, and use advanced pour point depressant additives to help offset the synoils' intrinsically better properties.
Results for this test (all units in degrees Centigrade):
Amsoil: -48
Mobil1: -46
Vavoline SynPower: -46
Castrol Syntec: -43
Pennzoil Synthetic: -40
Quaker State Synthetic: -40
Pennzoil Purebase: -37
Valvoline: -37
Mobil Drive Clean: -37
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: -37
Quaker State Peak Performance: -34
Test 5: Total Base Number (TBN)
TBN displays the lubricant's reserve alkalinity, and is, of course, the opposite of TAN (total acid number). A high TBN will help resist the formation of acids from sulfur and other sources. It is also a good indicator of reserve resistance to oxidation. The higher the number, the superior ability to suspend contaminants and the greater the ability to provide long-drain intervals
Results for this test (all units in mg KOH/g):
Amsoil: 12.34
Vavoline SynPower: 11.38
Castrol Syntec: 10.39
Pennzoil Synthetic: 9.73
Mobil1: 8.57
Valvoline: 7.88
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.82
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 7.74
Mobil Drive Clean: 7.71
Quaker State Peak Performance: 7.55
Pennzoil Purebase: 7.40
RR's comments: I was very impressed with all the oils, as the mineral oils have significantly improved, consistent with previous comments about how mineral oils are closing in, and that the GF-3 spec has resulted in very good performing products. Mobil1's showing is the best i have seen for that product, which usually was in the 5-6 range previously. It certainly also supports my previous comments that the 3K oil change "necessity" is out of place with current technology. Like an enema for a dead man, while it may not help to do a 3K change, it wouldn't hurt I guess.
Test 6: Cold Crank Sumulator
This one determines the apparent viscosity of the oils at low temperatures and high shear rates, simulating the dreaded cold start. It has direct applicability to engine cranking, the lower the number the better in terms of stress on the battery, starter, etc. A 10w is tested at -25degF and must show a vis <7000 cP to pass.
Results for this test (all units cP at -25degC):
Pennzoil Synthetic: 3538
Amsoil: 3590
Mobil1: 3967
Quaker State Synthetic: 4142
Vavoline SynPower: 4541
Quaker State Peak Performance: 4620
Castrol Syntec: 4783
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 5804
Pennzoil Purebase: 5936
Mobil Drive Clean: 6448
Valvoline: 6458
RR Comments: If you live and drive your car in very cold climates, the advantage of the synoils is obvious. Keep in mind that the NOACK performance figures here as well, as this tests hows the performance of fresh oil - after a few thousand miles, the oils with higher volatility will likely have thickened, unless there has been high dilution from fuel, such as can occur if excessive startup idling warmups are employed.
Test 7: Four Ball Wear
This one is a good indicator of the wear protection of a lubricant, although in the real-world it is should be factored in with the TBN of the oil. Three metal balls are clamped together, and a rotating 4th one is pressed against them in sliding contact. A scar is produced, since at some point the film strength (resistance to being squeezed out) of the oil will be exceeded. The scar is then measured, and the smaller the average wear scar, the better. This test is affected by both the base stock of the oil, and its additive package.
Results for this test (all units in inches):
Amsoil: 0.40
Castrol Syntec: 0.45
Vavoline SynPower: 0.55
Quaker State Synthetic: 0.55
Mobil Drive Clean: 0.55
Pennzoil Synthetic: 0.60
Mobil1: 0.60
Valvoline: 0.60
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 0.60
Quaker State Peak Performance: 0.60
Pennzoil Purebase: 0.65
RR Comments: Amsoil and Castrol Syntec are the clear frontrunners, indicating excellent chemistry and use of anti-wear additives. Once again, the high performance of the mineral oils against the 2nd tier synoils is notable, although one cannot dismiss the superiroity of the synoils across the board.
However, it is also admirable how well many of the mass-produced mineral oils fared. If you do frequent oil changes, they are very worth considering. The gap between synoil and the hydro-isomerized GIII mineral oils has significantly narrowed, especially when the GF-3 spec was implemented.
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Final comments:
I think that except for one of the lubes, there was a wide discrepancy of performance for the others - one might be good here, not so good there. As in life, consistency of performance is what sets apart the great from the good.
As Voltaire said, "The best is the enemy of the good". Perfectly good performance can be found in any of these products, and a thinking owner would factor his/her driving styles, operating conditions (environmental), maintenance schedule (intervals between changes), cost constraints, buy vs lease, and expected length of ownership into making a choice.
Now, what about the other top synoils? Well, they were not tested here, but certainly the industry giants were. Based on tests I have run or seen from sources I trust in the industry, Red Line, NEO, Motul, and others would likely score in the top quartile of these tests. The tests and UOA's I have seen for Royal Purple have never shown it to be other than mid-tier, competitive with the synoil or GIII mineral oils from the major companies.
Hope this is useful to you - I found it fascinating to watch the goo go head to head.
Happy Motoring!!
oil
It is better to keep your oil changed and clean. Oil breakdown is not a problem : dirty oil is . You are better off changing your oil more often than using expensive oils ;or you can do both if you like to spend money.
Be careful putting synthetic oil in an older motor. It may cause your seals and gaskets to leak. I know from experience!!!
It is better to keep your oil changed and clean. Oil breakdown is not a problem : dirty oil is . You are better off changing your oil more often than using expensive oils ;or you can do both if you like to spend money.
Be careful putting synthetic oil in an older motor. It may cause your seals and gaskets to leak. I know from experience!!!
Uncle Meat said:
Ok so after I read all you said that the only good thing i said was about amsoil. Yeah amsoil is great I believe it to be the best synthetic oil or the Royal Purple. In this test Royal purple was not tested and if you read all the way thru at the bottom the man says that it would likely test in the top quartile of the tests. So there you go. And I said Mobil 1 wasn't the best and was talked about to highly of what it really is basically and from what the test shows it looks as it came in 2nd which is great but where are Royal purple and redline??? I am sure as hell that they would out proform the Mobil 1 and you have nothing saying otherwise and I doubt anyone would disagree with me and if they do like you probably are going to do then they are just azzholes who think they know everything. So get some tests w/ Royal purple and redline and motul. Mobil 1 is the best oil you can buy off the shelf at walmart but not the best you can put in your car is basicaly what im saying. Plus if you read the post IT SAYS ROYAL PURPLE i said nothing about mobil 1. I am buying Royal purple and wanted to know what kind people are running in their cars....Thanx
JayLS1-327
New Member
No, that's not what he said, read it again Einstein!Roush21 said:
Based on tests I have run or seen from sources I trust in the industry, Red Line, NEO, Motul, and others would likely score in the top quartile of these tests. The tests and UOA's I have seen for Royal Purple have never shown it to be other than mid-tier, competitive with the synoil or GIII mineral oils from the major companies.
According to the tribologist Redline is in the top quarter (that's the top 25% for those who have reading comprehension trouble) and Royal Purple is mid-tier (Mid - Being the part in the middle or center and Tier - A rank or class) Hmmmm.... That means Royal Purple is middle of the pack, Mid-Tier, a.k.a. AVERAGE!Roush21 said:
Well if Mobil 1 averages out as #2 in the SCIENTIFIC independent studies and Redline is in the top 25% and Royal Purple is mid-tier, then that would put Mobil 1 above them both. I have posted results & quotes from an expert in the field of lubrication as my proof. What have you got?Roush21 said:
Oh yeah I almost forgot
Mobil 1 is sold at Wal-Mart and your buddy snkypete said it's bad so it has to be true! No! You go get the data to support YOUR claims and then come back here and get schooled some more.Roush21 said:
Won't argue that.Roush21 said:
Let me refresh your memory there Chong... You stated in the post above:...and if you have seen the list of wear for Mobil 1 synthetic it is the WORST performace/protection synthetic motor oil you can buy. So what did you mean by this statement? Again, where is your proof?Roush21 said:
You asked for advice. People stated they liked Mobil 1. You said Mobil 1 is the WORST synthetic. I provided you with verifiable data from an independent source on different brands of oil refuting YOUR statements.Roush21 said:
U.M.
TacBear
Founding Member
How about a real world test?
I have been using Synthetics for over 20 years, mostly Mobil 1.
I was a Amsoil dealer for a few years and I really like Amsoil, but it got way too expensive-even at dealer cost! I had a 85' Mustang GT that I used Mobile 1 in since it was new. In 1996 it caught fire and burned. After my Insurance company paid me for it some guy bought the engine and tore it down to rebuild it. I got a call one day and it was the guy that bought the engine. He said that the wrecker lot he bought it from told him it had over 100,000 miles on it, so he was calling to find out if it really did have that many miles. I told him that the day it burned it had over 110,000 miles on it. He said the the engine looked brand new on the inside. And asked if I would come look at it. I went to his house and looked at the engine and the cylinder walls still had hone marks on them like it had never had a piston in it! All the parts looked almost brand new, even the combustion chambers and valves had very little carbon on them (I allways used Amsoil P.I.[performance improver-a fuel treatment]). I will allways use Mobile 1, because I think it is the best "off the shelf synthetic" on the market. If I could get Amsoil for $3.25 a quart I would use it, it is the best Synthetic thst money can buy!
I have been using Synthetics for over 20 years, mostly Mobil 1.
I was a Amsoil dealer for a few years and I really like Amsoil, but it got way too expensive-even at dealer cost! I had a 85' Mustang GT that I used Mobile 1 in since it was new. In 1996 it caught fire and burned. After my Insurance company paid me for it some guy bought the engine and tore it down to rebuild it. I got a call one day and it was the guy that bought the engine. He said that the wrecker lot he bought it from told him it had over 100,000 miles on it, so he was calling to find out if it really did have that many miles. I told him that the day it burned it had over 110,000 miles on it. He said the the engine looked brand new on the inside. And asked if I would come look at it. I went to his house and looked at the engine and the cylinder walls still had hone marks on them like it had never had a piston in it! All the parts looked almost brand new, even the combustion chambers and valves had very little carbon on them (I allways used Amsoil P.I.[performance improver-a fuel treatment]). I will allways use Mobile 1, because I think it is the best "off the shelf synthetic" on the market. If I could get Amsoil for $3.25 a quart I would use it, it is the best Synthetic thst money can buy!
Houseisafeelin
New Member
I've been using Royal Purple 5W-20 since my GT's first oil change. I can't say if it's better than other synthetics because it's the only one I've ever used, but I can say I'm very happy with it. In the past year and a half I've put a decent amount of miles on the car, over 40 passes down the drag strip, and post strong numbers on the dyno.
I've been using Royal Purple 5w-20 for a long time. I too have many miles on my vehicle and have multiple passes down the drag strip. I would like to see tests with Royal Purple but I have yet to see one. And of course no one answered the ? on how does snake oil affect viscosity and how the oil performes.
FallenPhoenix
New Member
snake oil is like what you'd get from a witch doctor, just some crap that's supposed to make you feel like it's working. I really doubt anyone puts the oil refined from actual snakes in their engine oil.
That guy with the Acura may have gotten some in his though...
That guy with the Acura may have gotten some in his though...
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