rs turbo capri tranny help.

warwickben

New Member
May 13, 2007
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please for give me when i try to explain the problem. me and my buddy own a 1984 capri we both have looked and have now been able to find proper names for these parts. we went to a ford dealer and they stop makeing them.


its the part the clutch cable hook in to tranny side not pedal. on our car it hooks in to a flat 1/8 to 3/16th metal plate that has a hole in the center that with a pipe thats 1" dim welded to it.it hooks in to one end. if you hold it one way it looks like a t. the othere way a flat plate with a hole and a pipe welded in. a rod goes thru the pipe with needle bearings and spacers ect. one end of the rod goes in to the bell houseing with a clip holding it in. on the othere end it hooks in to some part that looks like dog bone(dont know what else to call it).
the dog bone hooks in to the part that pivits and presses on the clutch face.
the part bassically redriects the pull on the clutch.

the parts we need are new bearing's shims ect and the rod it pivits on.


side not the 2 pages the ford guy printed out with parts number shows 2 different setup but both are titled for the same car. one showing just the bellhouseing setup and one showing part of it but mainly the hook up for the clutch pedal.

the page showing mainly the pedal hook up shows the bell houseing it a different bell houseing and in steed of a arm going in side the houseing and pushing the clutch towards the fly wheel it shows how it would pivite and pull out.


i know this very confusing and iam sorry .....if any one has worked on these trans please let me know. my buddy i own the car with hasn't really seen this setup befor. he went to uti and took the ford classes for crying out loud and was top of his class.


so please if any one nows any ways to fix this a place to get the parts ect let me know. i had a idea of turning the rod down and installing sealed bearings but not sure if the rod would be stiff enough with a race clutch.
 
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You have a clutch fork( the part that pivits to engage the clutch)
and then the throwout bearing that engages the clutch.:shrug:
Hope that helps , just put a hydralic throwout bearing in it ??
what exaxtly are you trying to do??
 
The stock setup is a cable, then a little U shaped clip to hook the cable to the pivot rod, then the pivot rod attaches to the clutch fork with a little "dogbone" cable. The clutch fork then goes into the bellhousing and pushes on the throwout bearing next to the clutch pressure plate.

From what I can gather after re-reading the initial post a few times. You need the pivot arm, the pivot arm bearing, the pivot arm washer, and the pivot rod.

I've never heard of these pieces going bad or getting taken apart for any reason. You will probably need to find a used bellhousing to either rob the parts off of or to swap into the car entirely.
 
Stinger thank you for making my mess easy to under stand. its hard to explain what parts are broken when your scanner is messed.

(wroung setup)
i do not have this typ of setup on the car. clutch cable hooks in to the clutch fork.
this pic is taken from the auto zone page
0900823d801672cd.gif


(wroung setup again)
on one page we got from the ford deal it had this pic see the bell houseing.
0900823d8016729e.gif



iam trying to find a pic ect of the setup on the car.

we need the metal rod bearings ect.
the car sat for a few years the needle bearings and shaft are junk because of it alot of pitting
 
i think it mite be to hard to find the parts around my neck of the woods, rust city. mass.
if we cant find the part, i think i mite turn down the shaft and install sealed bearing's.
you think makeing it 1/8 thinner(pivot rod) would make it too week. i know the part that goes in to the bell housing needs to stay the same size.

ill go by the junk yards this week end, if i cant find one in my neck of the woods any one willing to help out i can send money paypal ect.

:hail2:
 
If you can't find one, just remove it, put a thin layer of jb weld on it to fill all the pits, then turn/sand it down to stock size again...it will work fine. We do this on old boat propshafts and it's cheap and easy.