Rust Bullet or Por-15?

dec322

Member
Feb 11, 2006
401
2
16
Bham AL
I'm treating both sides of my floorpans and am wondering which I should get. Rust Bullet looks easier to use but Por-15 has a huge following. What do yall know about this stuff and which would you use?

BTW, I'm dealing with rust right now and I've grinded alot of it to the bare metal.
 
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i have never had any experiences with rust bullet, but i have know a few people who have used por15 and seen the results. It came out really good. They just painted theirs on with a brush and it came out really good.
 
I use POR-15. It was like 28 bucks a quart if i remember corretly. When i pulled up my carpet, i guess water had settled under the seats into the padding of the carpet, and caused some rust. I used a wire wheel and took as much off as i could, and then POR-15'd the hell out of it. That was last summer. I havent seen any trace of rust coming back yet, so im convinced. I spent last week with a wire wheel and i cleaned my differential, rear frame and gas tank, and POR-15'd that as well. The quart goes a long way, and unless you have a ton of stuff to paint, you should be fine with just a quart. Follow the instructions carefully, specifically when it pertains to resealing the can. It tells you to use a sheet of plastic or something between the lid and the can and to clean all the excess out of the lip of the can. I didnt and it took me about 10 minutes, a screwdriver and some pliers to get the lid back off. It states that it takes better to a surface that has a "tooth" meaning bare or scuffed metal.. something it can bite into. I think it recommends at least 3 coats for maximum coverage. I have painted everything listed above and still have about a half a quart left. I have taken pictures of before and after, i just havent had a chance to post them yet. ill try to do that later today.

Some people will say that there is no way to stop rust, but im just going on what i see as far as the rust not coming back so far.
 
I used por 15 on my car and didnt like it. Its like a 4 step thing and they tell you to remove all rust. If you remove all the rust and just sela it it should not rust anyways. I thought it was a pain.

4 step? I'll have to read some more things b/c I thought I would just have to spray my stuff with metal-ready spray (for the bare metal) and then apply the POR-15.
 
Why not get the chassis black and be done with it, you'll be satisfied , it's the floor pan and underside we're talking about. Thats what this stuff was designed for.
 
por -15 we sold it in our parts store, that stuff is amazing scuff up your metal and put it directly on the surface....be carful not to get it in the seams of the can because when you try to open that can again it will be a PITA. por-15 is amazing


chassis saver is also amazing we carried that too. you can put it on a strip of metal let it dry then bend the metal in half and straighten it back out and it wont flake chip off or nothing if you got the bank account that stuffs awesome.
 
I used por 15 on my car and didnt like it. Its like a 4 step thing and they tell you to remove all rust. If you remove all the rust and just sela it it should not rust anyways. I thought it was a pain.



Are you sure you read the right can? On my can it says to remove the loose rust, then apply directly over the rest of the rust. and i dont know what 4 step process youre talking about.. you just remove the loose rust, and apply your coats.. :shrug: