"Safe" nitrous levels?

[351carlo]

I agree spray from the launch so long as you hook, if not, find out approximately what RPM to spray at before you spin.

86 I think our setups are SLIGHTLY different.... my cam is 246/[email protected]... so my spray starts a little later than yours.

Don't want to spray when I'm not moving.

 

[DK832]

351carlo, so you don't have an activation switch as such? It's the WOT switch that activates (on the condition that fuel pressure and RPM are OK)? Guess that's the way to go - one thing less to worry about!

Hookandladder, that's a sad sight that block. Did the intake detonate or what happened when the relay failed?

2 bonus questions:
What heat range plugs should I start with (10:1)? I was figuring Champion 9's?
The current cam is a FRPP X303 wih 224 @ 0.050 and 0.542" lift. Pretty happy with it as a street cam but always looking for more! What's worth looking into? It'll still need to be a 90% street and 10% track cam. The X303 fouls up a bit when cruising, but that should be better once the fuel injection goes in. A Holley 750DP is maybe not the best for crusing!

 

[351carlo]

Correct. I have no hold down activation switch, they are just for the movies. Well I guess some people use them, but they're not ideal. My one hand steers, the other hand shifts. Sure I can put a switch on the shifter, but if my system is armed (toggle on/off) I'm at the track ready to race. Once my RPM's are up, my fuel pressure is good and my foot is on the floor, why wouldn't I want it to be spraying? Not to mention all I have to do to turn it off is take my foot off the pedal. The only reason I can think of would be if I were spinning the tires or losing control, in both cases I wouldn't be about to make my best pass, so I would more than likely lift the throttle and deactivate the nitrous system anyway.

Oh and WHY get rid of the fuel injection? Properly tuned fuel injection is so much nicer when done properly. A good ford system with a PMS will make more power throughout the range and I don't want to hear anyone try and tell me otherwise. It is a debate that can go on for days, but please coming from an extensive Engineering/Physics background understand fuel injection is superior for us street cars!

I know it can be intimidating, and costly (heck I don't have it) but if you already have it, look into making it work for you. I have friends running 7's, 8's, 9's, 10's and of course slower with their fuel injected STREET cars. Yes, 7 and 8 second STREET cars. They drive them, although not often, legally on the road. They have different tunes to load onto them depending on the octane gas being used and how much power they want to make (turbo cars).

I won't go off here, but if people want to argue, feel free to make a new topic so we don't junk up this one.

 

[86bluecobra]

I agree spray from the launch so long as you hook, if not, find out approximately what RPM to spray at before you spin.

86 I think our setups are SLIGHTLY different.... my cam is 246/[email protected]... so my spray starts a little later than yours.

Don't want to spray when I'm not moving.

I have no doubt our combo's are different. Yours is probably much meaner then my combo is. my cam is 230/[email protected]. Now i believe you know a lot more then me about nitrous so could you explain to me how your cam numbers and mine effect when or what rpm you need to spray at. thx sir.

 

[HookandLadder]

Relay stuck open and sprayed the cars without adequate fuel. Boom.........it was a mexican block, but I was over 550 at the wheels and in NO-MAN's land with it anyway. The new Dart is much better and allows me to spray more!!!

 

[351carlo]

86, the whole idea is if I were sitting on the line, stalling up my car... I'd be spraying while sitting there. My cam makes power up high, so the stall of my converter is setup accordingly. If my converter stalled at 2500, I'd set my nitrous to come on somewhere closer to there. Since it doesn't, it's necessary to change it higher.

Since the cam generally dictates where your converter is going to stall, that was the easiest way to show why I'm spraying so much higher in the RPM range. My powerband is from 4500-7k.

I'm not sure I made too much sense there, but the idea is I want to spray when I'm moving. At 2500 I'm not moving. At 3500 I'm still not moving. WOT is always 4500 or more with the converter. Thus that's when I want to spray.

 

[86bluecobra]

Ahh that makes sense now. So your window switch is set to activate just above where you can hold your car sitting on your stall convertor. this makes perfect sense.

 

[DK832]

Oh and WHY get rid of the fuel injection?

Oops, not speaking english as my native tongue I probably wrote that wrong. I'm currently INSTALLING fuel injection and getting rid of the Holley 750DP.
All for FI and love to tinker with fuel maps etc. I'm redoing the whole induction and fuel system: RPM Air Gap, 900cfm Holley Pro-Jection TBI w/hacked ECU + Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, NOS Race Fogger etc.

Thanks for all the info!
:SNSign:

 

[10secgoal]

I always had a activation on my shifter as well as arming switch. And my arming switch would arm unless the second fuel pump was on. I only had the button on the shifter becasue I didn't want to blow my 8in. I waited a little out of the hole and hit it. When I got the 9in, I went to convert and never got around to it and ditched the setup.

 

[351carlo]

10secgoal is correct. The nice thing about the arming switch is for the reasons I stated, or I guess if you want to hit it only some of the time. Personally I'm an all or nothing kinda guy. Ya know, she's gonna give it all or nothing. She better be wearing all or nothing.

I guess that's just the way I am. That and I have a 9 inch.

Well that post took a sharp turn towards perverse. Back to watching TV.

 

[DK832]

No way or all the way?

Well thanks for all the info. I'll post pics when it's done, but first I'm off 2 weeks to an obscure island in the south China sea. No cell phone, no internet, just all those boring palm trees. Poor me....