School me on nitrous dry kits

[LaserRed01GT]

I will laugh when a rod is sticking out of the pan

The above is why it is immature and uneccessary. The guy is asking for advice and has invoked a mature technical discussion. Negative comments like those have no place here and they don't contribute to the technical discussion.

It is PROVEN that dry kits aren't as safe as wet kits.

Proven huh? Show me proof. And don't post a link to some thread or tell us anymore about who you have talked to or what you have heard. You keep using comments like:

I have spoken to....

and they all agree....

You are on the WRONG track....

I will laugh when a rod is sticking out of the pan....

Nothing but hearsay and negative comments. Do you have any actual experince with the use of dry, wet, and/or DP kits? What do you say we stick to the facts and personal experience.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

Nitrous Oxide is N2O so be weight it has more oxygen per unit than air. Most wet systems are set up for around a 5:1 ratio.

Usually the nitrous jet manufacturers associate a jet orifice diameter with a measured nitrous usage given a 900-1050 PSI bottle pressure. The measured N20 usage is typically measured in lb/min (pounds per minute). Then using math they can closely approximate how much RWHP will be gained for a certain application with a specific N20 jet size.

I have never heard of this 5:1 ratio. Can you explain?

 

[the98stang]

The above is why it is immature and uneccessary. The guy is asking for advice and has invoked a mature technical discussion. Negative comments like those have no place here and they don't contribute to the technical discussion.



Proven huh? Show me proof. And don't post a link to some thread or tell us anymore about who you have talked to or what you have heard. You keep using comments like:





Nothing but hearsay and negative comments. Do you have any actual experince with the use of dry, wet, and/or DP kits? What do you say we stick to the facts and personal experience.

First of all, I have a wet kit, so I do have personal experience.

Second of all, you are better off buying a wet kit because if you DO buy a dry kit, your going to need bigger injectors and fuel rails for larger shots to make it more safe. I myself would not use the stock injectors with a dry kit. Since injectors are $200-400, you can use that money for a better kit.

Also think about this. The nitrous enters the intake, goes in the intake manifold, and into the cylinders. During the entrance of the n2o, the computer needs to send information so the injectors spray more fuel. If, during that time, the nitrous enters the cylinders before the fuel is mixed in, your car will run lean, causing damage. This is less likely to happen with a wet kit.

 

[mustangman9812]

We have already established to run75 shot or more you need Injectors & Fuel Pump Upgrade. And you can run a 150 SHOT DRY if you do these things! But I would RECOMMEND: Injectors, Pump, 2 Step Colder Plugs, Tune, & Purge - Proper Gauges and you would be fine!!

And I dont think anyone on here sprays there car everyday!

 

[Stan Weiss]

Usually the nitrous jet manufacturers associate a jet orifice diameter with a measured nitrous usage given a 900-1050 PSI bottle pressure. The measured N20 usage is typically measured in lb/min (pounds per minute). Then using math they can closely approximate how much RWHP will be gained for a certain application with a specific N20 jet size.

I have never heard of this 5:1 ratio. Can you explain?

If talking about nitrous / fuel ratio or air fuel ratio it is by weight. So a 12:1 air fuel ratio is 12 lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel. Because 1 lb of nitrous has more oxygen (around twice as much) that 1 lb of air it need more fuel therefore the 5:1 ratio. The difference between 900 and 1050 can mean .001 larger fuel jet.

Maybe this site will help.
http://www.koehlerinjection.com/Koehler/NMdemo/nmdemo.htm

 

[LaserRed01GT]

Also think about this. The nitrous enters the intake, goes in the intake manifold, and into the cylinders. During the entrance of the n2o, the computer needs to send information so the injectors spray more fuel. If, during that time, the nitrous enters the cylinders before the fuel is mixed in, your car will run lean, causing damage. This is less likely to happen with a wet kit.

The time lapse between the communication of MAF to the PCM and the resultant pulsewidth adjustments occur within milliseconds. There would have to be a faulty MAF, PCM, circuit, or injector to create such a time delay that enough nitrous could enter the cylinder without the appropriate amount of fuel enrichment.

I personally prefer wet kits, but dry kits can be setup to be just as safe as a wet kit. They just require a little more attention to the fuel system.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

If talking about nitrous / fuel ratio or air fuel ratio it is by weight. So a 12:1 air fuel ratio is 12 lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel. Because 1 lb of nitrous has more oxygen (around twice as much) that 1 lb of air it need more fuel therefore the 5:1 ratio. The difference between 900 and 1050 can mean .001 larger fuel jet.

Maybe this site will help.
http://www.koehlerinjection.com/Koehler/NMdemo/nmdemo.htm

It's hard to say there is a generic nitrous to fuel ratio. Each jet manufacturer rates the WHP in accordance with their own working bottle pressure and every nitrous oxide kit company is different. For example NX rates their jets at a working bottle pressure of 1050 PSI, NOS at 950 PSI, and TNT at 900 PSI.

On a dry kit you can increase the bottle pressure to up the overall hit and the MAF will adjust the fuel enrichment accordingly. But, on a wet kit that, upping the bottle pressure above the manufacturers recommended working pressure will cause you to go lean. You would then have to up the fuel jet size and adjust the tune.

Normally though, the jet orifice diameter realtionship between fuel and N20 on a street/strip kit is around 1.70-1.90. For example on my NX setup, I am using a 57 N20 jet and a 31 fuel jet....so the N20 jet is 1.84 times larger than my fuel jet.

There are bunches of simulation software out there, and some of them work pretty well. But in my opinion, there is only one sure fire tried and trued way to dial in a nitrous setup. And that is to get it on the dyno or take it to the track and use good 'ole trial and error to get everything dialed in correctly.

 

[Stan Weiss]

No question in the end it has to be fine tuned at the track. The dyno can get you close, but it is only simulating the load on the engine.

 

[propellerhead]

What wrong with just going wet that seems to make our motors run the best. I had a friend with a 100 shot (dry zex kit) race me. I had the 125 wet and we roll raced and did it from a dig and i put it on him real fast in the first 100 feet but then i pulled him slow for the rest of the 1/4. We had the same bolt ons except for gears i had 3:73s and the driver was good also. What makes you want to go dry anyway?

Oh ya nitrous broke his piston
and mine 2
where i live the climate is always dry HOTT HOTT weather its 75 degrees out right now at 12 pm and our altitude is 3400.

I don't plan on going anything above 125 because I don't want to upgrade internals. I'm just not in it that deep. Given that, a dry kit seems to make sense due to its lower cost. I just have to understand the engineering behind dry kits to satisfy me. I don't slap on mods based on what some guy tells me about some unscientific street race. Sorry.

First of all, I have a wet kit, so I do have personal experience.

Second of all, you are better off buying a wet kit because if you DO buy a dry kit, your going to need bigger injectors and fuel rails for larger shots to make it more safe. I myself would not use the stock injectors with a dry kit. Since injectors are $200-400, you can use that money for a better kit.

Also think about this. The nitrous enters the intake, goes in the intake manifold, and into the cylinders. During the entrance of the n2o, the computer needs to send information so the injectors spray more fuel. If, during that time, the nitrous enters the cylinders before the fuel is mixed in, your car will run lean, causing damage. This is less likely to happen with a wet kit.

Read the first post. I wasn't trying to say dry kits are better. I am simply trying to understand the engineering behind dry kits. I have to satisfy myself that way before choosing between wet or dry.

 

[the98stang]

Read the first post. I wasn't trying to say dry kits are better. I am simply trying to understand the engineering behind dry kits. I have to satisfy myself that way before choosing between wet or dry.

my mistake