Suspension Shake and wobble vert

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by f8tlfiveo, Apr 9, 2013.


  1. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    Car drives fine with the top up, I just drove it for the first time today with the top down. Big difference, the whole car shakes around at about 35-45mph. I don't know what happens faster than that. Anyone ever have this issue ? It does kind of feel like it bounces a little with the top up. Not sure if that has to do with the weld skinnys on the front though. Could a out of Wack wheel weight cause this and be worse with the top down because of less support?
     
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  2. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    I have owned 3 Fox Convertibles and none exhibit that problem. I drove two with Weld Skinnies for years. My GUESS is you have a bad case of the "cowl shakes" and the body is flexing- you can feel the dash shudder and the front end shake? As bad as the top is in being rigid support, when it is up at least it acts as an attaching point to the two windshield pillars. When it is down the subframe and suspension will flex more. The fox body convertibles are notorious rattling and squeaking, Doe the car doesn't have subframe connectors or a strut brace? If not that would be my suggestion to tighten up the car.

    If you want to test to see if the wheel is the issue ( which I doubt or it would do that all the time), remove the skinnies and put a set of regular rims on front and see if the problem goes away.
     
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  3. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    It does not have any stiffening devices on it yet. I am going to put frame connectors on it, just haven't gotten there yet. Your explanation of what happens is pretty darn close to what happens.
     
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  4. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    Do you think a 6 point cage and frame connectors will help this problem. I want to put a roll bar in anyway for the track.
     
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  5. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    You may want to put the SBF connector on and the cowl strut brace and see if that solves the problem first. The cage would certainly stiffen up the chassis. IMO you want to weld not bolt it in. If you are going that far with a cage, take a peek at your torque boxes as well. May not be a bad idea to install a set of Wild Rides battle boxes.
     
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  6. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    Definitely be weld in.. No question there. When you say cowl brace do you mean the 3 point strut brace under the hood?
     
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  7. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    yep. You need to check for clearance issues with some intakes.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    Ok, thanks
     
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  9. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    Do you think the swaybar being unattached could be hurting me in this situation? Because it is not attached at the moment.
     
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  10. Sharad

    Sharad ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what? Site Sponsor

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    The swaybar shouldn't make it shake. Subframe connectors and a strut tower brace would be my first moves. As well as a temporary wheel swap to eliminate them as a variable.
     
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  11. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    I have frame connectors on order. I want to see how much of a difference they make first
     
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  12. Sharad

    Sharad ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what? Site Sponsor

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    solid plan
     
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  13. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    I hope you got either the MM or Steeda full length SBF. The cheap short ones flex .
     
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  14. Sharad

    Sharad ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what? Site Sponsor

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    Full Length SFCs are definitely better than the short ones. But MM & Steeda aren't the only names in the game.
     
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