Shelby Gt500

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by rusty428cj, Oct 20, 2013.

  1. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    I have known the owner of this Shelby for a long time and he has talked about having us restore it for years. He has owned the car for over twenty years and it was painted before he bought it. It looks great from a distance but it's a real Shelby and it is time for a restoration.

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    The first thing we did was scrape the paint off with a razor blade

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    All the floor pans look good except the drivers side and it had been replaced a long time ago

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  2. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom
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    thats great Rusty. post some pics of the original fiberglass so every one cans what it actually looked like and how it mounted to the body.it's a good opportunity for every one.
     
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  3. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    I thought I would show some of the gaps before we started.

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  4. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom
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    thats cool. for those that do not believe how bad the real thing fit here is the proof.
    though it looks like a lot of it could have been adjusted for a better fit that is the normal for these cars. the couple i worked on,the metal tail panel was cut out with what looked like an air chisel and the coil of metal left by the bit was still there attached to the tail panel and the top and bottom cut ran past the side cuts.
    the end cap holes in the quarters were drilled over sized and so were the upper side scoop mounting holes. i have some pics of a factory super charged 67 taken apart if i can find them.
     
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  5. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    This is how Shelby mounted the rear taillights

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    There is something strange going on with the top of the fender aprons.

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    Years ago somebody had used lead on the patch and this is what is underneath.

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  6. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    We removed the drivetrain and suspension and mounted it on a rotisserie.

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    The rest of the sheetmetal was removed and now the dirty job of scrapping the undercarriage.

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    The drivers floor pan was welded and pop riveted

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    Both subframes need to be replaced

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  7. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    I decided to send the body out to get sandblasted.

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    When it came back there was a lot of clean up to do. Vacuum, use the air blower, vacuum, flip it over and do it all over again a few times.

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  8. 68GT500KR_Vert

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    looks nice and clean
     
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  9. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    Looks better than it is there are a lot of little problems
     
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  10. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    Since there are a few places that we need to repair rusted sheetmetal I only sprayed one coat of epoxy.

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  11. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom
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    i would like to find a way to vibrate them when they are upside down .i gently hit the door jambs with a rubber hammer and that makes a lot of the sand fall in the roof ,then i vacuum and spin and vacuum and spin and blow it out and vacuum and spin:drool:
     
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  12. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    Doors were sanded to bare metal

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    Two coats of SPI epoxy

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    They needed a little bodywork to make them straight

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    A coat of SPI epoxy to seal

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    Two coats of Evercoat Slick Sand

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  13. rusty428cj

    rusty428cj Member

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    I'm way behind in updates so now I will get into some of the harder work

    The first thing we did was start removing the old patch and left front floor pan

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    Behind the roll bar the floor pan had a little rust. We did not want to take out the roll bar so we patched it

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    New floor pan and toe board installed

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    Rear floor patch

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    Before the seat riser was installed it was epoxy primed

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    Welds ground down

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