Should I Lower My Car? Thinking about B Springs.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ReefBlueHatch, Nov 9, 2010.

  1. Thanks guys for the photos and info. I'm now looking at other springs, I just want something ride and handle well with a small drop. I'd like to have Mach/Bullitt springs, but they're $300 for new.
     
  2. Also, should I use urethane isolators?
     

  3. They can be had for cheap. I paid $75 for my Mach 1 springs, and sold my c springs for $100! :D

    I run them with no isos up front, and adjustable control arms put back. Ride didn't change taking the isos out.

    Poly isos won't "settle" like rubber ones will, so they will ride a little higher.
     
  4. i got my steeda springs on eBay for half price new in box, put new isolators on them and have been a happy camper.
     
  5. Steeda everything on my 7-up car. Subframe connectors, Springs with Isos, Struts/Shock package. With CC plates, upper and lower control arms. The car has a great stance and handles awesome.
     
  6. I didn't care for the B-springs at all. Way too much rake. Car looked like it sat on a perpetual downgrade.
     
  7. I have B Springs on my '87 vert. "In my SIG" It sits low, level,,,, perfect IMO. The ride is stiff but I don't mind.

    These are great springs for the money. I didn't have to change my CC plates.
     
  8. Ride better? No. Handle better? Yes. Any time you put lowering springs on a car, ride quality WILL suffer to SOME extent. I can't speak for Mach/Bullitt springs, but those don't exactly "slam" your car either.

    I also have CC plates, MM SFCs, Steeda UCAs and LCAs. Good control arms are absolutely critical in firming up the handling on these things. The stock ones are way too mushy.
     
  9. When I went from c springs to Mach springs, handling stayed the same and ride quality improved. It only makes sense because the spring rates of c springs and Mach springs is virtually identical. (650 vs 600 lbs linear front, 250 linear vs 300-200 progressive rear). The improvement in ride came from having suspension travel back. The c springs were too low and too racked and any decent bump would bottom out the struts.

    I lifted the car up, but when I turn, it feels pretty much the same as when the car had the c springs.
     
  10. Do the Mach springs lower the car at all from the stock ride height?
     
  11. I should have went into more detail. When I first put them on, with no adjustment, one side was adjusted all the way back and one side was in the middle, and the side in the middle was .5" lower than the one all the way back.

    I haven't got an alignment yet, but I adjusted them the same on both sides and now the height is the same on both sides.
     
  12. i have the steeda springs and there alittle to low in the front and there bouncy :mad:. but they like the corners. its alot stiffer than the stockers. i still need the cc plates and the adustable front struts. the rear has a good height but the front is alittle too low. and it lightly scrubs when i turn hard to the right. so ill just put some poly isio in the front and that should solve the problem.
     
  13. I like the slight rake look with the B springs. So the front spring rates on B's are 425/530 and the C's are 650 - so do these numbers represent firmness?

    And with Bullitt/Mach 1 springs, I'm guessing they don't offer much of a drop?
     
  14. The numbers represent how many lbs it takes to compress the spring 1" so yes a higher number means more firm....I have B springs and I am switching to coilovers, not because they're bad or anything, they've been on the car for over 10 years and I'm looking to change things up a bit, plus I want to be able to adjust ride height at any time!
     
  15. Bringing this post back from the dead...

    well I still haven't decided on what spring to get and I've doing a lot of reading. I've been looking high and low for Bullitt springs, but no luck.

    And now I'm thinking I don't want to use B springs because the fronts have the same rate as stock springs. So now I'm considering C springs, but I'm worried they'll ride really rough. Would a 4 cyl. swaybar help with the C springs?
     
  16. This is my car with B springs, I have no complaints.


    Silo192.jpg
     

  17. Oh my....:nice:
     
  18. That notch is just... :drool:
     
  19. You're over thinking it. Unless you want to professionally road race the car, pretty much any lowering spring will "do". So much about handling is in the control arms and the shocks/struts, don't beat yourself up deciding on springs.

    If you want a SERIOUS corner carver, look into things like coil overs, panhard bars, and torque arms. If you just want a fun street car, get a spring that will lower it and get the stance you want, put some decent control arms and shocks/struts on it, and drive the damn thing!

    :burnout:

    FWIW, my progressive rate FRPP springs do just fine. The car handles great.

    Also, no, don't change the swaybar.
     
  20. Looks great!! :nice: I really like the rake it has!