Drivetrain Silverfox Spt-1 Aod Valvebody

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by dnbonds, Jan 16, 2014.


  1. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    So I've already spoken to Dan about ordering this VB and after reading so many things about his VB's it seems like a no brainer. Anyways, I was wondering if the bolts holding the VB into the tranny needed to be torqued to a certain specification?

    Am I right about these installation steps:

    1) Drop the pan
    2) Unbolt the filter
    3) Unbolt the current Valve Body (draining the entire tranny in the process)
    4) Bolt new Valve Body, filter, and pan
    5) Put new fluid in

    Are there any special steps that needs done to the SilverFox VB before installation?
    And is there any break in period to where I should go easy on my driving? It's my DD btw
    I'll be ordering this shortly and saving it to install on a warm-ish day lol

    Thanks in advanced!
     
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  2. rbohm

    rbohm Founding Member

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    yes there is a proper spec for VB bolt torque, i think its like 11ft/lbs but check to be sure.
     
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  3. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Yes there is a torque spec on those bolts. You do not want to overtighten them as you will break the bolts or distort the valve body. Get a 3/8 inch -torque wrench or better one that measures in inches rather than foot lbs or torque. There are two lengths of bolts on the VB. The perimeter bolts and one in the center are different length than the inner ones. You will also need to engage the TV and shifter detents when you install the new VB. When ordering the VB, tell Dan your setup and what shift points you want and he will adjust the VB for you and also the firmness. You might also want to talk to him about the SPT2 that is constant pressure and then you don't have to worry about any incorrect TV cable adjustment or pressure. The TV cable just needs to be hooked up. Dan sends out very detailed instructions and his support is outstanding before and after the sale.

    Couple of things.

    When you are draining the fluid, look in the pan for any signs of excess wear or failure. If you see major metal shavings or a lot of friction material, or the fluid is burnt, then you may have some issues with the trans.

    You will never get all of the old fluid out by simply dropping the pan and VB. You'll probably need about 10 quarts to be safe. Use the fluid Dan recommends. Do not overfill the trans.

    When you go to put the new filter on, put a little vasoline on the gasket so it stays in place. I also put a little spray tack on the pan gasket to hold it in place. Snug down the pan bolts but do not overtighten them. I like the felpro pan gasket.

    While you are at it, replace the stock trans pan with one that has a drain plug, and buy a small magnet and stick it on the inside bottom of the pan. It will catch any metal from the trans. It also won't hurt to invest in a good plate style trans cooler like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/261297997537?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    For break in, follow the directions and I would take it easy for the first few hundred miles. Then drive it as normal.

    You will love Dan's VB. It will feel like a different car. That combined with a 2500-3000 stall converter and some 3.73's are a great setup.
     
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  4. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    Dan didn't go into detail as to what the constant pressure was like. I've already changed the filter when I first got my fox as part of routine maintenance since it sat for 1 and a 1/2 years. The fluid wasn't burnt and there were no metal shavings. Does the constant pressure make it rev similar to a manual transmission since the TV cable is always pulled (I'm taking an educated guess lol). So in other words, it revs like a manual but shifts like an automatic?

    I've read somewhere that you don't want to put a different stall converter on a mainly stock trans/engine. Also, I'm getting 15-18 mpg as it is lol, I don't want it dropping with new 3.73 gears. I'm pretty sure I have the stock 2.83 (or whatever the lowest fox's come with) as I have a 17 tooth gear and I'm still 5mph slower on the speedo but I have 16" tires. I know about the spin the wheel and count the drive shaft trick but I haven't done that yet.
     
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  5. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    the higher stall won't hurt your AOD if you have a cooler. As far as the 3.73's you may get a little lower miles on overall, but the car wont be lugging around in town as much. The 3.73s will wake up the car. Putting in a aftermarket VB with 2.73s is a waste IMO.
     
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  6. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    It'll make the trans last longer but that's probably the only benefit he'll be getting lol
     
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  7. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    My transmission doesn't downshift when I want it to, especially since I do a lot of running getting on/off the interstate. I initially wanted Dan's AOD-450 or 550 rebuild kit but he said all I might need is a new VB and clean my governor. I already cleaned the governor and that made it shift better but its pretty aggravating when I want to pass an 18-wheeler and it refuses to shift into 3rd. It doesn't even rev up and I have checked the TV cable.
     
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  8. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    Just manually pull it out of overdrive lol. Much much cheaper
     
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  9. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    Now I feel stupid :runaway:

    lol
     
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  10. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    Shifting it from OD to D on the interstate didn't work. It stayed in OD so my linkage might not be set right. I would hate to start a new thread but how would I go about fixing that?
     
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  11. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    You don't have a linkeage setup- the shift points are adjusted by the TV cable, which sets the line pressure. If you stomp on the gas at highway speed does it "kick down" out of OD?
     
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  12. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    My shifter doesn't seem to keep it in 1st gear even if that is selected. Same thing with Drive. On the interstate it sometimes kicks down, but its about a 50/50 chance. When it refuses to down shift it doesn't matter how much gas I give it; it'll just rev up to 2,200 RPM in OD giving a slight increase in speed. Sometimes letting off the gas completely and then slowly giving it gas will work.
     
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  13. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Sounds like your TV cable is either stretched or misadjusted.
     
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  14. rbohm

    rbohm Founding Member

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    agreed.
     
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  15. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    How would I find out if it is stretched? My dad who has dealt with these before said it seemed fine. But you never know lol. Where can I get a new TV cable if it is stretched? LMR has it for 119.99 but that seems a little extreme.
     
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  16. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    Go to your nearest auto parts store.
     
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  17. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    adjust your cable with the method desribed above. Check to see that either the plastic or brass bushing installed properly in the cable end by the throttle body. Check the spring on the cable by the trans end to see if it is intact and working properly. After 20+ years of being pulled, these cables- TV, clutch, shifter, will all stretch and then your trans will not operate properly.

    Lastly, you can hook up a pressure gauge to the test port on the trans and follow this guide to get the absolute certain setting for the cable.

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/aod-tv-pressure-adjust-and-fluid.733438/

    If you are not comfortable doing this take it to a trans shop, as you can fry and AOD in minutes with an improperly adjusted TV cable.
     
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  18. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    He's not kidding either.
     
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  19. dnbonds

    dnbonds Active Member

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    Ok, thanks. I'll stop by AutoZone on my way home from work and see if they have a TV Cable. I'll have my tranny shop put it on and adjust it.
     
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